808's car problem thread lolz, done goose hunting for solutions |
808's car problem thread lolz, done goose hunting for solutions |
Jan 3, 2010 - 11:18 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Feb 24, '07 From Oahu, Hawaii Currently Offline Reputation: 23 (100%) |
use a ziptie to hold it into place, see if the problem still exists. one step ahead of you. Now I can truely say this car is completely ghetto rigged This post has been edited by 808celica: Jan 3, 2010 - 11:18 PM -------------------- I don't normally drive fast, but when I do its on a curvy section of this island
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Jan 4, 2010 - 12:35 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Mar 8, '09 From Westport, MA Currently Offline Reputation: 6 (100%) |
this **** is happening to my car now at the moment.. it **** the bed and took soooo many cranks to get it runnin and when i got it running, it ideled lowww and when it was back to normal and gave it gas it gagged... we thinkk its the map sensor but we aint positive.. my codes came up as 24 and 31, one being a temp sensor and the other the map senor... cars in the shop now being looked at
-------------------- st205 powered ss3 coupe
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Jan 4, 2010 - 2:17 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Feb 24, '07 From Oahu, Hawaii Currently Offline Reputation: 23 (100%) |
wow that sucks man. Im not getting those codes (knock on wood) everything seems alright ATM, so i'll go drive out for gas.
***01/03/2010 10:12pm I think i found the problem. Fool around with every wire and part associated with the trouble code. Use a zip tie and a rubberband. Test drive, bridge TE1 and E1 terminals in diagnosis box and you get a continuous flashing CEL with key turned to ON. Continuous flashes means trouble gone!!! WTF!!!!!! This post has been edited by 808celica: Jan 4, 2010 - 3:14 AM -------------------- I don't normally drive fast, but when I do its on a curvy section of this island
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Jan 4, 2010 - 8:11 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Mar 11, '06 From Way South Chicago Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
then it may have just been a bad connection.
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Jan 6, 2010 - 3:15 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Feb 24, '07 From Oahu, Hawaii Currently Offline Reputation: 23 (100%) |
K that didnt solve the problem i just got lucky. with my new experiences now i have a better idea when the problem comes about.
Engine starts no problem when cold, but once the engine is warmed up that's when the idle drops and the car dies. After this I wasnt able to start the car again even with me fooling around with connections. Now in my garage i warmed the car up then came back and gave the engine gas-------car doesnt stall Gave it more revs are diff rpms to make sure that wasnt a fluke. This seems good. Now coincidentally my dad touchs the oil pressure sensor and the car dies (no throttle given) So i take out the sensor connector and shoot electronic cleaner (like brake cleaner but wont harm plastic)----Car starts (problem solved or a fluke?) Well.......that was a fluke, car is running regular idle then a little gas was given and car dies. wtf?!?!?! Car started right away again. My dad and I kept re-creating what we did to make the car die. No go car runs and didnt die out. So i turn off the car and call it a night. Thoughts??? Next thing I should check is the igniter near the brake master cylinder on the firewall. Might have to drive out with Herosblade's igniter and drive in circles around the neighborhood until the car dies. Then carefully remove my igniter and install his. If the car starts and dont die Igniter is my problem (wont know till i try) If I still stall and die I'm lost So would a faulty oil pressure sensor cause the car to shut off?? Also those 3 sensors at the end of the radiator hose, would they cause the car to shut off?? Other than that those were the only things my dad and I touched that caused the car to shut off at warmed temp. -------------------- I don't normally drive fast, but when I do its on a curvy section of this island
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Jan 6, 2010 - 2:46 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Feb 24, '07 From Oahu, Hawaii Currently Offline Reputation: 23 (100%) |
k this morning the started the car and took a shower. came back down and the car was still running by itself at warm temp. i gave aboout 10-15 short 2500 revs and the last rev it died. i tried to start it back up but it wouldnt. so i waited 5 mins and tried again, 4th try it kinda started but i had to give gas (1500rpm worth) for the engine to stay alive for 5 secs. after that it wouldnt start.
-------------------- I don't normally drive fast, but when I do its on a curvy section of this island
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Jan 9, 2010 - 1:41 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Feb 24, '07 From Oahu, Hawaii Currently Offline Reputation: 23 (100%) |
changed igniter module, problem still exists its not throttle position sensor, idle air valve thing, or vac hoses. Its something electrical but i can find it. Still gettin hte code 12 checked distrib and connection, igniter and connection. what's left to check?? Last thing i know is ECU. help much??
This post has been edited by 808celica: Jan 9, 2010 - 1:42 AM -------------------- I don't normally drive fast, but when I do its on a curvy section of this island
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Jan 9, 2010 - 3:25 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Mar 11, '06 From Way South Chicago Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
ya'll got mice and rats on them islands, check all the wiring.
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Jan 9, 2010 - 4:23 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Feb 24, '07 From Oahu, Hawaii Currently Offline Reputation: 23 (100%) |
wiring checked. now throwing code 14. checked connecter E5 pins 20 and 3 for IGT and IGF. those checked out. I'm not bothering with an ecu swap from Herosblade's car so either I find a good priced ecu (will be specific to my car) or the car will be parted and chopped. So you can start calling dibs on replacement parts cuz Herosblade got first dibs on lips.
This post has been edited by 808celica: Jan 9, 2010 - 4:24 PM -------------------- I don't normally drive fast, but when I do its on a curvy section of this island
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Jan 9, 2010 - 5:25 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Jul 23, '09 From Fresno, Ca Currently Offline Reputation: 6 (100%) |
wiring checked. now throwing code 14. checked connecter E5 pins 20 and 3 for IGT and IGF. those checked out. I'm not bothering with an ecu swap from Herosblade's car so either I find a good priced ecu (will be specific to my car) or the car will be parted and chopped. So you can start calling dibs on replacement parts cuz Herosblade got first dibs on lips. i want your clear door lights!! |
Jan 9, 2010 - 6:00 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Aug 30, '02 From San Juan, PR Currently Offline Reputation: 4 (100%) |
I got dibs on the sides.
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Jan 9, 2010 - 9:07 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Feb 24, '07 From Oahu, Hawaii Currently Offline Reputation: 23 (100%) |
wiring checked. now throwing code 14. checked connecter E5 pins 20 and 3 for IGT and IGF. those checked out. I'm not bothering with an ecu swap from Herosblade's car so either I find a good priced ecu (will be specific to my car) or the car will be parted and chopped. So you can start calling dibs on replacement parts cuz Herosblade got first dibs on lips. i want your clear door lights!! just use a tundra clear lens. search for my interior thread or search clear door lens and grab the p/n its way faster for oyu that way I got dibs on the sides. sides were ghetto rigged and really damaged anywho pin 20 and 3 on E5 connector was tested for ignition signal to the ecu. the IGT terminal isnt givng me 0.5-1v when igniter connector is removed and you "crank" the engine for no more than 2secs a time. also it must not read 0 or 5v on the IGT terminal. Problem isnt solved but I think I found my problem, the last option, ECU. -------------------- I don't normally drive fast, but when I do its on a curvy section of this island
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Jan 9, 2010 - 9:14 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Aug 30, '02 From San Juan, PR Currently Offline Reputation: 4 (100%) |
You getting an IS350? I hate those cars. They're quick, but too uncomfortable inside for a sporty luxury car. The back has no room. Might as well be a Celica, lol.
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Jan 10, 2010 - 4:06 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Aug 12, '09 From Oahu Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
wiring checked. now throwing code 14. checked connecter E5 pins 20 and 3 for IGT and IGF. those checked out. I'm not bothering with an ecu swap from Herosblade's car so either I find a good priced ecu (will be specific to my car) or the car will be parted and chopped. So you can start calling dibs on replacement parts cuz Herosblade got first dibs on lips. How much you want for the intake? |
Jan 15, 2010 - 10:44 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Oct 20, '08 From Seattle, WA Currently Offline Reputation: 5 (100%) |
how much for the gt4 strut bar?
-------------------- 2006 BMW 330i - 6 Speed - Dinan Stage 1
2014 Toyota Rav4 XLE |
Jan 16, 2010 - 12:13 AM |
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Moderator Joined Jun 29, '08 From Denver Currently Offline Reputation: 59 (100%) |
You're seriously going to part it out?
-------------------- "Employ your time in improving yourself by other men's writings, so that you shall gain easily what others labored hard for." -Socrates. Even Socrates told us to use the search button!
2006 Aston Martin V8 Vantage. 1998 Celica GT- BEAMS Swapped. 2022 4Runner TRD Off Road Prenium. 2021 GMC Sierra AT4. |
Jan 16, 2010 - 1:32 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Feb 24, '07 From Oahu, Hawaii Currently Offline Reputation: 23 (100%) |
wiring checked. now throwing code 14. checked connecter E5 pins 20 and 3 for IGT and IGF. those checked out. I'm not bothering with an ecu swap from Herosblade's car so either I find a good priced ecu (will be specific to my car) or the car will be parted and chopped. So you can start calling dibs on replacement parts cuz Herosblade got first dibs on lips. how much for the gt4 strut bar? ^^ You're seriously going to part it out? Yes, I've bought a new ecu and still the problem exists. -------------------- I don't normally drive fast, but when I do its on a curvy section of this island
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Jan 16, 2010 - 3:08 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Jun 29, '03 From 캘리포니아 Currently Offline Reputation: 23 (100%) |
Nooo don't part out and leave us!!! I will come down there and help you figure it all out .
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Jan 16, 2010 - 5:47 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Feb 24, '07 From Oahu, Hawaii Currently Offline Reputation: 23 (100%) |
did everything by the book. if it comes down to me pulling the motor just to get to something small im not game.
-------------------- I don't normally drive fast, but when I do its on a curvy section of this island
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Jan 16, 2010 - 8:26 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Mar 11, '06 From Way South Chicago Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
i'm telling you, its in the wiring. de pin the wires associated with the code from the ecu harness, pin in new wires (dealer sells pre-pinned leads i think) and run new wires all the way to the offending sensor/part.
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