ABS light is on, tried pulling the abs code, NEED HELP PLEASE! Options

[barterj]

i fallowed a how to i found telling me to bridge the Tc and E1 ports and do the same thing as reading and engine code except its off the abs light. This is what happens.
When i turn the key the abs is illuminated, it goes out for second and then comes back on and stays on, its doesn't repeat. So i read something that says if the abs light stays on it could be a faulty abs computer. I went to the scrap yard and found 2 more and tried them both and the same thing happened. I can't imagine that both abs computers i tried were both faulty as well as mine. the chances of that i assume would be one in a million. any help would be appreciated.

This post has been edited by barterj: Jul 15, 2010 - 6:14 PM

[Spider77]

i fallowed a how to i found telling me to bridge the Tc and E1 ports and do the same thing as reading and engine code except its off the abs light. This is what happens.
When i turn the key the abs is illuminated, it goes out for second and then comes back on and stays on, its doesn't repeat. So i read something that says if the abs light stays on it could be a faulty abs computer. I went to the scrap yard and found 2 more and tried them both and the same thing happened. I can't imagine that both abs computers i tried were both faulty as well as mine. the chances of that i assume would be one in a million. any help would be appreciated.

This is right out of the book....
"With ignition on, remove short pin from Data Link
Connector (DLC). See Fig. 4. Connect jumper wire between DLC terminals
Tc and E1. See Fig. 4. If a malfunction is detected, 4 seconds will
elapse, then ABS light will begin to flash a 2-digit code. First
series of flashes indicates first digit of code. After a 1.5-second
pause, second series of flashes indicates second digit of code."
You remove the "short pin"?

[barterj]

No i didn't pull the short pin out before, i did today and got a code, i'm happy for that but now have something else to fix...
got code 32
Code 32
Malfunction of left front wheel speed sensor signal. Check
speed sensor, sensor rotor, wiring harness and connector. checking this later tonight, hope its just dirty, but if not there is a celica in the scrap yard down the road that i can get parts off for pretty cheap
Thanks Spider for the clarified code checking process!

This post has been edited by barterj: Jul 19, 2010 - 1:43 PM

[barterj]

checked abs sensor or speed sensor, anyway it is as dead as dirt, guess i will be getting a new one........

[Spider77]

Well glad that you at least know what is wrong (as opposed to going through ABS ECU's), now its just a matter of getting it fixed.

[barterj]

Today I got an ABS sensor from a 97 Camry for $10, car quest insisted it wouldn't work, but i took mine out and went to the junkyard to compare them, the sensor itself is the same size and shape, however the way it mounts is slightly different. The Celica abs sensor wire leads up from the sensor, the one from the Camry leads down (up if its in the Camry), no big deal I just looped it upward and put it between the spindle and the brake dust shield so it won't rub in anything. I had to change the hardware as well. I swapped the metal bits that hold the wire and connector to the car. I got it all back together and then the computer gave me more codes.......ugh, FML moment. Got codes 31, 32, 35 and 36. Being irritated I put the car back together anyway so I could use it to get to work. After putting the car back together and starting it the abs light went out and stayed out, so I decided to see if by chance the abs would work. I back up down my dirt driveway, went forward at about 10mph and jammed on the breaks and the ABS kicked on and this thought went through my head..."$10 Camry ABS sensor FTW!". So all in all the abs works due to a sensor that I was told WOULD NOT work in my car
Thanks again to Spider for the fast and clarified help.

This post has been edited by barterj: Jul 20, 2010 - 5:10 PM

[Spider77]

No problem, glad everything worked out for you.

[phrax]

"$10 Camry ABS sensor FTW!".

I'm going to give this a try on Saturday. I originally thought it was only the RF that was missing on my GT-S, but it appears that the LF is also toast. Thankfully a '97 Camry just came into the local wrecker. Hopefully the knuckles are still intact with the sensors. Just need to make sure I don't trash them during removal.

-nils

[Tech-Nics]

i fallowed a how to i found telling me to bridge the Tc and E1 ports and do the same thing as reading and engine code except its off the abs light. This is what happens.
When i turn the key the abs is illuminated, it goes out for second and then comes back on and stays on, its doesn't repeat. So i read something that says if the abs light stays on it could be a faulty abs computer. I went to the scrap yard and found 2 more and tried them both and the same thing happened. I can't imagine that both abs computers i tried were both faulty as well as mine. the chances of that i assume would be one in a million. any help would be appreciated.

This is right out of the book....
"With ignition on, remove short pin from Data Link
Connector (DLC). See Fig. 4. Connect jumper wire between DLC terminals
Tc and E1. See Fig. 4. If a malfunction is detected, 4 seconds will
elapse, then ABS light will begin to flash a 2-digit code. First
series of flashes indicates first digit of code. After a 1.5-second
pause, second series of flashes indicates second digit of code."
You remove the "short pin"?

Where is this "Data Link Connector (DLC)" ????
My ABS light has been on for a long time and it might be the same problem.

[Spider77]

The diagnostic box is pretty much what it is. I guess toyota had a thing they could hook up right to there. But for the most part we just use jumpers.

[phrax]

"$10 Camry ABS sensor FTW!".

I'm going to give this a try on Saturday. I originally thought it was only the RF that was missing on my GT-S, but it appears that the LF is also toast. Thankfully a '97 Camry just came into the local wrecker. Hopefully the knuckles are still intact with the sensors. Just need to make sure I don't trash them during removal.

-nils

Camry came with no ABS. Damnit. None of the newer (late 90s) Toyotas on the lot had ABS. Doh.

[mkernz22]

what's the easiest way to remove the sensor if it broke in half?...

[barterj]

Probably a pair of pliers. if pliers won't work remove the axle nut, unbolt front strut, pull down and out on the spindle and pop out the drive axle, then use something to tap the sensor out.

This post has been edited by barterj: Aug 30, 2010 - 4:10 PM

[mkernz22]

fffff thattt, i think it would be easier to replace the hub with the one from my parts car

[supercoolee]

my abs light turns on and stays on every once in a while
wheres the diagnostic box located at?

[opie_7afe]

supercool right between drivers side firewall and strut tower small rectangle black box with diagnostics on the lid, and heres the place i use for some helpfull diagnostic information http://bgbonline.celicatech.com/6g/ and also im getting codes 32,34,35,36 should i just replace all sensors or what?. never had abs issues before and the diagnostic manual i have helps but not fully....or could it be just corrosion on the speed sensor plugs as this was a NY car in the past from what i found....thanks alot guys!


PS i didnt wanna make a new thread to help not clutter up forum with same questions that yall have heard before!

This post has been edited by opie_7afe: Apr 1, 2011 - 3:20 PM

[Spider77]

supercool right between drivers side firewall and strut tower small rectangle black box with diagnostics on the lid, and heres the place i use for some helpfull diagnostic information http://bgbonline.celicatech.com/6g/ and also im getting codes 32,34,35,36 should i just replace all sensors or what?. never had abs issues before and the diagnostic manual i have helps but not fully....or could it be just corrosion on the speed sensor plugs as this was a NY car in the past from what i found....thanks alot guys!


PS i didnt wanna make a new thread to help not clutter up forum with same questions that yall have heard before!

I highly doubt that all your sensors went out at once, look for a common source and go from there.

[opie_7afe]

i really havent a clue man just throwing these codes and im like WTF yet my braking isnt bad at all so i havent a clue what it could be...and common source i have no clue what it would be as well this is my first real import....my first sorta import i had was a ford probe...and as i said ive never dealt with abs problems before....

[azian_advanced]

have you tried clearing the codes and see if the abs light comes back on?

[Spider77]

You may have braking problems, but when is the last time you had to slam your brakes? Did they lock up or did you get that ABS vibration? Common points, ABS ECU, ABS Sol Relay, ABS MTR Relay, ABS Actuator.........if you look at some of my gripes, we have no schematic, so its hard to tell what happens and where (as far as electric flow is concerned). Corrosion might be a factor, hell, maybe all the sensors are not connected firmly?