3rd gen 3sgte swap. NEW PICS! (last page) |
3rd gen 3sgte swap. NEW PICS! (last page) |
Aug 4, 2011 - 12:23 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Oct 5, '05 From NE Currently Offline Reputation: 6 (100%) |
Yea i was wondering that too.. But i can feel loss of power every once in a while when it does this. sadly to say it really sounds like this.. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nCj6Spwl1CU 50 seconds in. I'm really really hoping that its not compressor surge tho.. hey i know what it is your bov is letting off to early... are cars dont really like those type of bov's. change to tial type also make sure your boost itsn't to high if it is your car will act like it doesn't want to go when u get to 4th gear and maybe 3rd at highway speeds. so turn your boost down and get a new bov and see if that doesn't help you............................... are u running fmic set up or water to air.............. or................... air to air................... and it is compressor surge because that bov isn't doing what it should be my car did the same thing ontill i changed the bov. its not a big problem just a easy fix and u will be good Also wouldn't me doing a boost leak test and putting 15 or 16lbs through the piping make the bov leak if it was that? Because when we hooked that up. the bov didn't open or leak any air? -------------------- |
Aug 4, 2011 - 4:03 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Feb 28, '11 Currently Offline Reputation: 5 (100%) |
Well what it is.. is that that the bov spring is either to weak or to strong making it open to early or to late when u shift. That's why the tial type bov is better so a boost test really won't help u there. Because its different when u are driving
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Aug 4, 2011 - 4:39 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Oct 5, '05 From NE Currently Offline Reputation: 6 (100%) |
Well man. I'm really hoping that you are right.. That would totally make my day so much better.. A buddy of mine has a tial sitting in his room. I may have to borrow it and see if that fixes the problem.. Cause i've been going crazy trying and trying to figure it out. This engine is amazing. And love the feeling of it. But i just wish that i could have full boost and no hesitations.. Cause thats exactly what happens in every gear when its past 9lbs.
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Aug 4, 2011 - 5:42 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Feb 28, '11 Currently Offline Reputation: 5 (100%) |
Well man. I'm really hoping that you are right.. That would totally make my day so much better.. A buddy of mine has a tial sitting in his room. I may have to borrow it and see if that fixes the problem.. Cause i've been going crazy trying and trying to figure it out. This engine is amazing. And love the feeling of it. But i just wish that i could have full boost and no hesitations.. Cause thats exactly what happens in every gear when its past 9lbs. Yeah try that and run stock boost first. Set up the stock way. And see if it runs fine after that if so u fixed your problem and you were turning your boost up to high. Take note to u may have a bad boost controller. That's why I said set it up the stock way first with that tial bov.and let me know how it turns out |
Aug 4, 2011 - 6:00 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Feb 11, '08 From Auckland, New Zealand Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
blitz bov is a good bov aslong as u adjust it right???
im more a fan of the hks ssqv type though, theres no adjustment it just works on vacuum, ... -------------------- Mike W
1996 Toyota Celica ST205 GT-FOUR GT2860RS turbine, TiAL mvr44, JE 86.5φ piston, Clutchmasters FX400, APEX P-FC 269awhp / 273ft-lbs |
Aug 4, 2011 - 6:21 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Feb 28, '11 Currently Offline Reputation: 5 (100%) |
blitz bov is a good bov aslong as u adjust it right??? im more a fan of the hks ssqv type though, theres no adjustment it just works on vacuum, ... Yeah pole type bov's are good bov's.they cost a lot of money but to me worth it.I'm not a big fan of hks I don't like the way they sound and the fact u can't adjust them but that's just me. I feel those are made for cars that boost high psi boost levels but again that's just me and what I think |
Aug 4, 2011 - 10:05 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Oct 5, '05 From NE Currently Offline Reputation: 6 (100%) |
well bad news guys. changed bov with my buddy.s hks that pushes 2o easy. and nothing changed with it on my car. still does it.. so don't know what the deal is. only other thing could it be anything with the waist gate and the berk tech down pipe? and gotta still get exhaust done. but figured i.d wait till i get this figured out before i go to get that done.. but any more ideas? lol. thanks for your help for sure. i'm willing to try anything lol.
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Aug 4, 2011 - 11:05 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Oct 5, '05 From NE Currently Offline Reputation: 6 (100%) |
oh and brenton. i don't have a boost controller.. lol.
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Aug 4, 2011 - 11:17 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Feb 28, '11 Currently Offline Reputation: 5 (100%) |
well bad news guys. changed bov with my buddy.s hks that pushes 2o easy. and nothing changed with it on my car. still does it.. so don't know what the deal is. only other thing could it be anything with the waist gate and the berk tech down pipe? and gotta still get exhaust done. but figured i.d wait till i get this figured out before i go to get that done.. but any more ideas? lol. thanks for your help for sure. i'm willing to try anything lol. Run a pole type bov not hks..... and I think that ct26 turbo on the gen3 with that berk down will have to be fixed so that waste gate can open all the way.and if your exhaust isn't. Done u might not be getting enough back pressure which is making u lag also did u check your boost controller and make sure everything is good there. That's pretty much everything u can check outside. make sure u don't have intake leak if u have a fmic set make sure your intercooler doesn't have a hole in it. And check your pipe. If your running water to air make sure your pump is working right. And make sure u have a good hard vac going to your bov. If u are running a boost controller manny make sure its hooked up right.and your waste gate is plugged up right. U should only be using one line off the waste gate the other one should be plugged. And the big thing is make sure your vac lines are hooked up right oh and brenton. i don't have a boost controller.. lol. I don't know about the ct26 turbo but my ct20b only boost 9 stock. If your boosting 15 stock without a boost controller something is wrong This post has been edited by brenton1919: Aug 4, 2011 - 11:17 PM |
Aug 5, 2011 - 8:11 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Apr 17, '06 From New Jersey Currently Offline Reputation: 105 (100%) |
oh and brenton. i don't have a boost controller.. lol. there is your problem, you always hold some detail so people can't help you efficiently. if you are pushing 15 psi with no boost controller. then you have 1- a leak on your hoses to the actuator 2- missing a hose completely 3- a hose crimped / twisted with restricted flow. inspect your hoses going to / coming from the actuator. look for diagrams on how they should be set up and compare to yours and see where the problem is. at best on a stock setup you'll be pushing around 13 PSI not 15-16 -------------------- |
Aug 5, 2011 - 9:26 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Oct 5, '05 From NE Currently Offline Reputation: 6 (100%) |
already checked all lines.. jim told me with front mount and full exhaust i.d be pushing fifteen or so pounds with stock set up. and no boost controller.. we've pressure checked all lines.. but i guess i'll maybe get a controller and try to turn it down. and prob take my down pipe off and check if waist gate is opening correctly.
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Aug 5, 2011 - 4:21 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Dec 11, '07 From Davie, Florida Currently Offline Reputation: 4 (100%) |
My guess is a leak in your lines somewhere. Otherwise, like Culpable04 said, you should be at 13psi MAX. Also, you should check & make sure all your ignition components are good (Spark plugs, Wires, Cap, Rotor, distributor). My 3s was feeling REALLY sluggish whenever my boost hit 1 bar & I changed out everything except the distributor & had a much better response. If you're planning on running your engine hard, I'd suggest MSD 8.5mm wires & for plugs, NGK BKR7Eix's & make sure the plugs are the iridium ones. It's best to go with original factory Toyota parts for cap & rotor in my opinion. That's only if you think your ignition components are bad, or just not keeping up with your setup.
-Ryan |
Aug 5, 2011 - 9:34 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Oct 5, '05 From NE Currently Offline Reputation: 6 (100%) |
ya i'm gonna keep checking things out. the plugs only have couple hundred miles on them. and cap rotor and plug wire.s were all brand new from toyota. so i'll have to do some more checking on waist gate and the actuater. we'll figure it out hopefully lol. and i'm running same plugs you suggested lol.
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Aug 8, 2011 - 12:59 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Oct 5, '05 From NE Currently Offline Reputation: 6 (100%) |
Also another quick question.. Now i've been doing some thinking. and as i'm running front mount air-to-air instead of the factory top mount water-to-air. I have the diagnosis thing jumped so i don't throw a code. But the question i'm asking is. Am i supposed to get rid of the water lines that run to the turbo? or just leave them hooked up? Hoping to get to work on it this week sometime.. Been pretty busy lately lol.
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Aug 22, 2011 - 3:37 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Oct 5, '05 From NE Currently Offline Reputation: 6 (100%) |
Alright guys well havn't had time to upload any pics of dropping engine in and everything.. So here ya go..
After getting ACT 6 puck clutch installed After i got the transmission lined back up and bolted to block. Slowly starting to drop engine into the car After we got her in the car. Getting ready to tow her back to my house to install everything else. After installing my intercooler piping (testing) Testing the front mount placement After getting it running and we put bumper back on (love the front mount) A random shot i took yesterday.. Well hope ya guys enjoy.. I almost have 3k miles on it since i got her running.. I'm still having that problem. But hopefully get her fixed.. Jim told me a boost controller would fix my problems.. Hopefully he's right lol.. thanks everyone for your help -------------------- |
Aug 22, 2011 - 9:15 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Mar 8, '04 From Newport, RI Currently Offline Reputation: 63 (99%) |
nerver get rid of the water lines that go to the turbo !
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Aug 23, 2011 - 12:01 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Oct 5, '05 From NE Currently Offline Reputation: 6 (100%) |
ya never did. just asked.. but car runs pretty good. it's fun
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Aug 26, 2011 - 7:26 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Feb 1, '05 From Charlotte NC Currently Offline Reputation: 14 (100%) |
OUTSTANDING BRO!!! youre gonna LOOVE THIS!
on a side note... im REALLY against you taking out your crash bar for your intercooler... not worth the risk. be safe man! -------------------- |
Aug 27, 2011 - 3:13 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Oct 5, '05 From NE Currently Offline Reputation: 6 (100%) |
Thanks man. And ya i know i had a custom crash bar made when body kit got installed it was a steel bar.. But problem was we couldn't fit it in there with the intercooler. So we left it out.. I know its not safe. But i know a lot of people take it out just to get body kit to fit.. But i'll be fine.. (hopefully) lol.. Just hoping when i get exhaust and a boost controller.. I can fix my flutter problem when i'm WOT and hitting thirteen to fifteen lbs. lol.
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Aug 27, 2011 - 4:07 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined May 29, '09 From Gainesville, FL Currently Offline Reputation: 17 (100%) |
I don't think the few layers of aluminum that are our crash bar, serve much purpose.
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