DIY: How To Change Your Driver Side CV Axle, includes, transmission fluid drain and fill and Axle Seal Options

[airforceb2cc]

Change them with both trannys. You can borrow a seal puller from a local auto parts store. It looks like a "T" with a claw on one end. It takes a little prying but the hardest part is trying to find a way to get the handle to rotate over center with everything in the way. Don't use a flat head screwdriver or anything of the sort or you will scratch the housing. Talking to the tech, he said that you can cut the seal with a knife, pull the spring out, and yank on the seal that way...just be sure not to gouge the walls or you might have a leak later on.

[Keiri]

Ok, bought a seal puller and got it out no problem this morning. I put the new one in and am attempting to put the new CV axle in but it just seems to enter just beyond the seal but no further. I have the snap ring facing downward as I try and slide the axle in but I'm afraid to shove hard on the boot for fear of tearing or ripping it. What's the best way to get this new axle in? Thanks for your patience and help guys...I know my ineptitude is irritating.

This post has been edited by Keiri: Apr 13, 2010 - 9:36 AM

[samir0189]

Ok, bought a seal puller and got it out no problem this morning. I put the new one in and am attempting to put the new CV axle in but it just seems to enter just beyond the seal but no further. I have the snap ring facing downward as I try and slide the axle in but I'm afraid to shove hard on the boot for fear of tearing or ripping it. What's the best way to get this new axle in? Thanks for your patience and help guys...I know my ineptitude is irritating.

i had the same trouble. I used a big crow bar and put it on the inner .... metal thing with the grooves, lol. and then i wacked it really really hard with a heavy hammer on the crowbar and it began to go in. You gotta be really tough with it or it wont move.

This post has been edited by samir0189: Apr 13, 2010 - 9:56 AM

[al94st]

Here's a tip I used when pulling my axles, when removing my engine.

I also tried to pry the **** out of it and distorted the dust cover etc..

If you wrap a ratchet strap around the axle as close as u can to the trans, then wrap the other end around the strut, or something solid enough to hold tension. You just tighten up the strap a reasonable amount (you don't have to crank it down like crazy, just so u know there's tension on it) and then pry quickly or in my case use a screwdriver and give a little tap to push it outward. It'll pop right out.

[airforceb2cc]

Ok, bought a seal puller and got it out no problem this morning. I put the new one in and am attempting to put the new CV axle in but it just seems to enter just beyond the seal but no further. I have the snap ring facing downward as I try and slide the axle in but I'm afraid to shove hard on the boot for fear of tearing or ripping it. What's the best way to get this new axle in? Thanks for your patience and help guys...I know my ineptitude is irritating.

I had to turn the pass side axle a little to get the splines to line up in the diff. It should slide in a little, then line up the splines and push hard. It will slide in some more and then I used a pry bar to force the snap ring in place. There is a definite pop that you will hear to be sure the snap ring is seated.

[kamax]

quick questions,

Is the seal the same on both drivers and passenger side? and the seal listed in the DIY i noticed on champ toyota as a 1997-1999. it should be the same for the 94 right??

[vile_v]

Yes they should the same for both sides. The years should work throughout too! This is for the S54 Transmission though...

[xrav22]

Yes they should the same for both sides. The years should work throughout too! This is for the S54 Transmission though...

I want to say gracias for this thread I just changed my passenger side manual trans cv axle on a 1997.
I saved time by using azian's advice back in this thread and the darn thing came right off. Problem was on a 97 manual tranny you have to remove the holding bracket(support) off the engine in order to get your arm in to take out and replace the seal(the Toyo guy said left and right seals are different).
I recommend the t shaped seal remover as it was only 10 bucks at orielys and the seal came out in 10 seconds. It took a longer to mess with the support bracket and clean than it took to get the axle off and on. With this method I did not have to take apart any ball joint. Also if you tip your car you will only loose 1 quart of fluid so you can still drive your car with 1.7 quarts in an emergency. I am waiting for the left side to go but it is ok for now.
I am just throwing a few details of the passenger side since everyone talks about driver side.
ps. Before pulling out the axle make sure to remove the two bolts holding the support bearing to the bracket.

This post has been edited by xrav22: Sep 16, 2011 - 11:21 AM

[kamax]

oh wellz, got the same seals for both side and it seem to fit fine. just waiting for my axle to come in from the pass side.... i think it got damage during shipping as the spindle came out of the housing lol..

[foxcraze]

so did we even get a resolution are the seals the same or different?

[kamax]

so did we even get a resolution are the seals the same or different?

fits well, so yea the same i guess

[Pyrotechnic]

Just wanted to say thank you for taking the time to make this how to article! I just changed the passenger side axle in a 98 GT convertible. The provided torque specs are a nice touch, considering I don't own a manual for this car.

This post has been edited by Pyrotechnic: Nov 9, 2012 - 8:33 PM

[ILoveMySilly97]

8. loosen the bearing lock nut
* I had my friend step on the brakes as i was removing the nut. I was using a 30mm socket on a 1/2 ratchet, i position the ratchet up straight and just whacked it with a rubber mallet

If you don't have a friend or another body to help out. Another method is to put the rim back on. Make sure you take off the center cap so you can have access to the axle nut with your axle socket. Put on at least three lug nuts(make sure they're tightened) in a "V" shape but it'll be safer with all 5. Put the car off the stands and break the axle nut loose(ONLY LOOSEN!!!). Loosen the lug nuts(ONLY LOOSEN!!!). Jack the car back up. Take the lug nuts and the rim off. Since the axle nut is loosen. You can either try to spin it with your hand or use the socket.

What I did was got a 1/2" ratchet with an extension pipe as a breaker bar and I also used the 30mm axle socket which can be loaned from AutoZone.

This post has been edited by ILoveMySilly97: Nov 27, 2012 - 5:30 PM

[ILoveMySilly97]

Passenger side was easy but the driver side....I'm completly stuck. I have the same problem as this guy. Yes I ripped off my axle like he did too. I tried every trick and brute force I can think of. Already tored my seal and bent the crap out of my dust shield already.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0GC8WS3KSD8

[aspen]

For what it's worth, first time I did this involved several hours of prying.

Second time, I just got an axle puller set with the side hammer, and was able to use the bearing puller part of it to get enough of a grip on the axle, and got it out in a few 'hammers'. Recommended. I guess it's just that much better of an angle of attack.

[ILoveMySilly97]

Yea. Now I'm waiting on the axle seal and the cv axle slide hammer attachment. -_-

[Pyrotechnic]

Once again, I'm checking in to say thanks for this article. About a year ago I changed my passenger side axle, and not too long after that the drivers side starting making noise. I finally got around to changing the drivers side yesterday and again this thread was a big help.

The one thing that was tough about the job was the snap ring. I tried prying it out, but like someone else said in this thread I think all that does it tweak it to side and then it gets stuck. I went to AutoZone and borrow their slide hammer and CV puller tool, but upon getting home I found out that because the cv joint is recessed into a pocket on the transmission, you can't get the puller tool behind it (1998 2.2L Automatic).

I then watched this video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0GC8WS3KSD8 and I was sold on the idea. The problem is, I didn't have a welder and the job needed to get done in one day. So I came up with a much sloppier version of it. The pictures show it all. I found that the CV housing had some grooves near the edge which was the perfect place for the jaws of the vise grips to grab on to. Once it was clamped on, I found out that in the rear most part of the vise grip jaws, there's enough room to get a link of chain in there. I then rigged up the chain to the slide hammer using the useless claw tool as a big washer. A few solid whacks of the slide hammer and it came right out. I did place a thick towel over the chain so that if the whole thing went flying it would settle quickly. The only downside to this is it only works if you plan to replace the axle.







This post has been edited by Pyrotechnic: Nov 13, 2013 - 4:07 PM