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> oil pan removal, help please
post Mar 18, 2012 - 9:01 PM
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hjesse11

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I believe i am leaking pil either from the pan or pan gasket. Looks easy enough in the book at my work (advance auto) but those pics are black and white. It says to remove part of the exhaust and then itll come right off. Any one have any pics on this job? 94 gt 2.2. Thanks everyone. If no one has pics, ill take some along the way to help out anyone down the line but whatever advice would be appreciated.
post Mar 19, 2012 - 10:01 AM
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Smaay

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there is no gasket. Toyota uses FIPG. its like a RTV sealant. you can get a tube from the parts counter. just use a putty knife and pound it between the block and pan to split it.


--------------------
2001 Celica GT-S Turbo
1997 Supra TT 6speed
1997 Celica 3MZ/1MZ swap
1990 Celica All-Trac
post Mar 19, 2012 - 12:40 PM
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hjesse11

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QUOTE (Smaay @ Mar 19, 2012 - 10:01 AM) *
there is no gasket. Toyota uses FIPG. its like a RTV sealant. you can get a tube from the parts counter. just use a putty knife and pound it between the block and pan to split it.


I already got the gasket for it though? Advance carries a cork gasked for the pan. Its gotta be the pan or "gasket" cuz its not comin from anywhere else.
post Mar 19, 2012 - 2:25 PM
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hjesse11

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okay so it looks like part of the tranny is in the way of the part of the pan closest to the tranny. idk if it is just a shield for the pan or part of the tranny. any help???
post Mar 19, 2012 - 10:28 PM
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Smaay

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there is a cover over the oil pan that bolts to the bottom of the bell housing of the trans. you have to take that off first.


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2001 Celica GT-S Turbo
1997 Supra TT 6speed
1997 Celica 3MZ/1MZ swap
1990 Celica All-Trac
post Mar 22, 2012 - 3:41 AM
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blackceclia0823

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Also your going to have to lower the front exhaust pipe down a little bit and lower the center crandle frame too. Personal it not easy project if you not done them alot. The Bell housing (PLate stiffener) has 6 bolts and Smaay is correct it has to come off.

I would not use the gasket I would try to return the aftermarket gasket as it junk if you have not open it.go to your local toyota deal and buy some Fipg as Smaay suggest. I am a toyota tech and those gasket don't last very long and they start leaking again.
post Mar 22, 2012 - 11:23 PM
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hjesse11

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So what then, if i can drop the pan, the gasket sealant just goes onto the rim of the pan? Thanks for the help everyone.
post Mar 23, 2012 - 9:18 AM
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Smaay

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yes just run a bead of FIPG around the rim. when you tighten it down to the block it will spread out and harden. then it will seal.


--------------------
2001 Celica GT-S Turbo
1997 Supra TT 6speed
1997 Celica 3MZ/1MZ swap
1990 Celica All-Trac
post Mar 23, 2012 - 2:18 PM
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hjesse11

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QUOTE (blackceclia0823 @ Mar 22, 2012 - 4:41 AM) *
Also your going to have to lower the front exhaust pipe down a little bit and lower the center crandle frame too. Personal it not easy project if you not done them alot. The Bell housing (PLate stiffener) has 6 bolts and Smaay is correct it has to come off.

I would not use the gasket I would try to return the aftermarket gasket as it junk if you have not open it.go to your local toyota deal and buy some Fipg as Smaay suggest. I am a toyota tech and those gasket don't last very long and they start leaking again.


Taking off the center cradle frame wont drop the tranny or engine right?, the down pipe is easy, i had that outta the way. And the bell housing plate will come off without anything fallin outta the tranny right? Figure i may as well ask before i find out for my self haha. Thanks, appreciate the help.
post Mar 23, 2012 - 2:58 PM
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Smaay

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no. the trans is still bolts up with 2 big bolts up top and 2 on the back and 2 on the starter.


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2001 Celica GT-S Turbo
1997 Supra TT 6speed
1997 Celica 3MZ/1MZ swap
1990 Celica All-Trac
post Mar 23, 2012 - 3:07 PM
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Spider77



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Since I did this not too long ago.............I took off front motor mount, removed bolts/nuts holding in right (passenger side) mount. used separate jack to raise motor/trans assy. Loosened rear motor mount, pulled "stiffener plate" (this also involves removing intake runner support, lower.). Like most said, removing the "stiffener plate" (or inspection plate...whatever you prefer) is the hardest part. After you remove that you have access to the rest of the oil pan. Take the remaining nuts off, clean mounting surfaces, be careful not to deform the pan. Plop some FPIG on there, (oil pump back apply inboard of grooves, midway use just the grooves, near the stiffener plate put FPIG on the outer groove). Someone correct if I am wrong in this, but Its how I did mine, and no leaks. I also (goes without saying) cleaned off both mating surfaces to ensure a uniform "fit".........

This post has been edited by Spider77: Mar 23, 2012 - 3:09 PM

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