The Progression of KAOS, ... from then 'til now. Options

[KAOS]

Bump - no thoughts? LOL

[mandrek]

how much work are you planning on doing to the motor wile its out? and as far as the lines go, if it were me (and it just was. LOL) swap all of your lines to new 4-ply silicone hoses, and a new rad....

with new parts and the motor out the only real part that you will need to thoroughly clean is the heater core... i have seen it done with a 5 gal bucket, a full bottle of CLR, and a cheap in bucket water pump and garden hose..

fill the bucket, put in the CLR, hook up the pump and dump tube to pour back into the bucket.. and let it cycle for about 30 min.. or until no more sh!t comes out of the core.

if you are not going to pull the block all the way apart you can use a similar system... the key though is that you then will HAVE to flush the core and the system in the motor with fresh water (just hook it up to the water hose, and let it flow till it is clear, and no more junck coming out) good luck bro!

[KAOS]

how much work are you planning on doing to the motor wile its out? and as far as the lines go, if it were me (and it just was. LOL) swap all of your lines to new 4-ply silicone hoses, and a new rad....

with new parts and the motor out the only real part that you will need to thoroughly clean is the heater core... i have seen it done with a 5 gal bucket, a full bottle of CLR, and a cheap in bucket water pump and garden hose..

fill the bucket, put in the CLR, hook up the pump and dump tube to pour back into the bucket.. and let it cycle for about 30 min.. or until no more sh!t comes out of the core.

if you are not going to pull the block all the way apart you can use a similar system... the key though is that you then will HAVE to flush the core and the system in the motor with fresh water (just hook it up to the water hose, and let it flow till it is clear, and no more junck coming out) good luck bro!

Thanks man!

Made some more progress tonight;










This post has been edited by KAOS: Dec 22, 2014 - 3:04 PM

[Box]

Vinegar is good for removing rust, and for cheap.

[KAOS]

I finally got sick of all my procrastination and fear of taking the block apart on my own; so I locked myself in the garage tonight until it was done.

Overall not bad. I pussy'd out and didn't take apart the head properly, I just removed the assembly from the block and set it off to the side. Suprisingly enough seperating the block from the head was not the daunting task I thought it would be. Yay.

Examining the chambers, it would appear there was some debris in there and I can see some marking, but over all the chambers are in decent shape. Regardless, this engine has been sitting for awhile and the block is going for a day at the spa. Hot tanked, cylinders honed, and possibly machined if needed.

Anyways, the pictures should speak for themselves. The block is completely stripped and ready to go (aside from a few bolts that I still need to document before I take it somewhere.

Enjoy! I sure did.













































What sensor is this??



This post has been edited by KAOS: Dec 22, 2014 - 3:04 PM

[Box]

That is strange. Coolant temp senor maybe...? Only thing I could think of that'd be on the side of the block. That or oil pressure, but that'd seem like an odd place for one.

This post has been edited by Box: May 5, 2012 - 2:17 AM

[KAOS]

That is strange. Coolant temp senor maybe...? Only thing I could think of that'd be on the side of the block. That or oil pressure, but that'd seem like an odd place for one.

Def not oil pressure - I've unscrewed it from the block and beyond the threads, there's nothing... lol. I dunno. Figure it out later I guess.

[Box]

Hmm... Block temperature sensor? No idea, this is quite the conundrum.

[KAOS]

Hmm... Block temperature sensor? No idea, this is quite the conundrum.

Sorry - its the knock sensor. A buddy of mine from town settled it for me.

[Box]

Ahh, thought it might've been that. All the ones I've know are located on the top of the engine and not the side though. Good thing to know.

This post has been edited by Box: May 5, 2012 - 3:20 AM

[Rusty]

great progress

and yes knock sensor

[sodap0pWRC]

that pitting is from detonation, not from debris bro.

[KAOS]

that pitting is from detonation, not from debris bro.

Thanks Steve. are those detonation pits repairable or do I need to replace the parts?

[DKGT4]

Very nice. Great work so far.. This will be done very soon as I need to replace the valve cover gasket... I think I'm getting some oil leak and therefore the exhaust spewing out some smoke.... But we'll see.

[sodap0pWRC]

It should be ok bro, that pitting could have weakened the ringlands below, but I doubt it. I'd check on a price for a set of pistons, if they are cheap enough, I'd go that route. The head should be fine too, not a lot of pitting

[KAOS]

Got the block and the pistons back from the machine shop today - CLEAN BILL OF HEALTH.

Block looks great... needs a little bit of a pressure wash to get rid of the flaking paint on the block (from the hot tank, I'm assuming). I didn't realize how much gunk/build up there actually was in the cooling chambers of the cylinders until it wasn't there anymore. The chambers look great now, could probably use a little pressure washing themselves. (I can still see a few rust chips inside... )

The block came back with what appears to be some pretty big scratches in the cylinders... I'm a little concerned because they weren't there before I took the block to the shop and now I'm worried that the block might not be usable.

Unfortunately, I'm heading out of town for the long weekend and won't be able to take pictures, etc until I get back.

...or maybe I'll try to snap a few in the sunlight in the morning before we leave, get your opinion(s).

The shop said the cylinder walls and pistons were still well within specs, so I can reuse them for the rebuild.

[Box]

Maybe do a light honing on them? Just enough to smooth things out some.

[KAOS]

Took a vid:

Cylinder Walls

Looks like scratches from the honing tool - doesn't seem like a crack, but I might do a dye test just in case.

Looks like they're high enough in the cylinder wall that it might be higher than the TDC.

This post has been edited by KAOS: May 20, 2015 - 1:19 PM

[bsamps4]

Looks like some tooling marks from the machine shop. I'd take that **** back and have them fix it!

[Rusty]

dang I hope its not a crack. Wasn't there before was it?



one thing you could look at further down the rebuild, is getting some of the heat reflective wrap and putting it on the underside of the intake manifold to prevent heat soak. (GT-4/3S-GTE owners do the same on their factory intercooler) I'm looking at doing the same, but can't find it for sale here in NZ.