Building a diypnp, Standalone harness wiring Options

[HardHead93]

I have been having nothing but trouble with my AEM FIC on my 5sfte set up. I have a 97 Celica GT Convertible with a newly rebuilt engine and a 16G CT-26 turbo set up. The ECU is not working well with the signals the piggyback is feeding the stock ECU. Based on a couple of posts I have seen on 6gc.net, I broke down and bought a diypnp 76 pin standalone. The diypnp has all the features I am looking for and the price doesn't break the bank. I just finished soldering the main board and am about to start doing the harness jumpers. Can anyone provide and example for wiring the diypnp?

[Tigawoods]

Lagos is your main man for that. PM him

[HardHead93]

To start the diypnp project, I cracked open the factory ECU to get the pinout locations.





I created the following document to help me.



I am still working out what sensors need to be hooked up and how they need to be wired. My initial goal will be to get the car to start and get the timing right at idle. Then I can start added more sensors and get a drivable street tune. More to come.

This post has been edited by HardHead93: Dec 2, 2015 - 12:42 AM

[HardHead93]

I have been having nothing but trouble with my AEM FIC on my 5sfte set up. I have a 97 Celica GT Convertible with a newly rebuilt engine and a 16G CT-26 turbo set up. The ECU is not working well with the signals the piggyback is feeding the stock ECU. Based on a couple of posts I have seen on 6gc.net, I broke down and bought a diypnp 76 pin standalone. The diypnp has all the features I am looking for and the price doesn't break the bank. I just finished soldering the main board and am about to start doing the harness jumpers. Can anyone provide and example for wiring the diypnp?

Now that I have the pinout locations I need to figure out how to wire them on the motherboard. It really sucks that so much of the factory functionality goes through the ECU. Functions like the back up light, A/C, headlights, defogger, and Cruise Control are all pinouts in the ECU. I think once I get the car running I will figure out how to run 12V power to them. I will also need to determine what are sensors for CEL and what actually control something on the car. This is going to take some time.

[Smaay]

you most certainly need PIM. that is the MAP sensor. it is the main tuning sensor.

[HardHead93]

you most certainly need PIM. that is the MAP sensor. it is the main tuning sensor.

The DIYPMP has a built in 2.5 bar MAP sensor so it directs you to leave the factory one unplugged. The only other option is a 4 bar external unit but that still runs through a different pinout than the PIM.

This post has been edited by HardHead93: Nov 30, 2015 - 9:06 AM

[delusionz]

W is CEL which is a switched ground to the negative side of the CEL bulb. what else?

[delusionz]

ELS just leave it where it is, megasquirt should ignore it or do its own thing with it

in the tuning software you will assign functions onto the pins, so AC in and AC out will be able to be setup, cruise control should too

[HardHead93]

W is CEL which is a switched ground to the negative side of the CEL bulb. what else?

The big one is the NE and G pinouts. I know they are cam and crank signals but all references say some thing different. Any ideas? Also where does the Tach signal get pulled from?

[HardHead93]

ELS just leave it where it is, megasquirt should ignore it or do its own thing with it

in the tuning software you will assign functions onto the pins, so AC in and AC out will be able to be setup, cruise control should too

I figured out the A/C. So do I hook up power to the ELS or just leave it? Another question, there are 2 pinouts for ignition (IGS and IGT), but only one spot on the diypnp board what do I do with that?

[lagos]

It really sucks that so much of the factory functionality goes through the ECU. Functions like the back up light, A/C, headlights, defogger, and Cruise Control are all pinouts in the ECU. I think once I get the car running I will figure out how to run 12V power to them. I will also need to determine what are sensors for CEL and what actually control something on the car. This is going to take some time.

You don't actually need to wire the majority of those to the ecu. Just stick with the basics of fuel and spark to get the engine running.
Stuff like the defogger input is just there to make the factory ecu idle up when there is an electrical load placed on it. The DIYPNP just monitors its own voltage and allows you to tune for that stuff without an extra input.

As far as AC, I didn't need to fully wire to the ecu to get it to work. All I did was supply an input signal so that the diypnp would know to initial AC idle up... but I would still wait to set that up once you have the car running.

[HardHead93]

W is CEL which is a switched ground to the negative side of the CEL bulb. what else?

The big one is the NE and G pinouts. I know they are cam and crank signals but all references say some thing different. Any ideas? Also where does the Tach signal get pulled from?

I just heard back from diypnp.com on the question above.
NE=crankshaft
G=camshaft

Just my luck, I wired them the opposite.

[HardHead93]

It really sucks that so much of the factory functionality goes through the ECU. Functions like the back up light, A/C, headlights, defogger, and Cruise Control are all pinouts in the ECU. I think once I get the car running I will figure out how to run 12V power to them. I will also need to determine what are sensors for CEL and what actually control something on the car. This is going to take some time.

You don't actually need to wire the majority of those to the ecu. Just stick with the basics of fuel and spark to get the engine running.
Stuff like the defogger input is just there to make the factory ecu idle up when there is an electrical load placed on it. The DIYPNP just monitors its own voltage and allows you to tune for that stuff without an extra input.

As far as AC, I didn't need to fully wire to the ecu to get it to work. All I did was supply an input signal so that the diypnp would know to initial AC idle up... but I would still wait to set that up once you have the car running.

All done with the wiring and firmware is loaded. What ignition settings do I need? I have a 97 5sfe, California ECU, and distributor with a separate crank sensor (I replaced it when I did the engine rebuild). Also any tips on building a basic tune for a 16G CT26 turbo with 460cc injectors?

Injection Settings
Spark Mode: ?
Trigger Angle: ?
Main/Return: ?
Odd fire Angle: ?
GM HEI/DIS: ?
Use Cam Signal: ?
Ignition Input Capture: ?
Spark Output: ?
Number of Coils: ?
Dwell type: ?
Cranking Dwell: ?
Cranking Advance: ?
Maximum Dwell: ?
Maximum Spark Duration: ?
Trigger wheel arrangement: ?
Trigger wheel teeth: ?
Missing teeth: ?
Tooth #1 angle: ?
Wheel speed: ?
Second trigger active on
and every rotation of: ?

[HardHead93]

It really sucks that so much of the factory functionality goes through the ECU. Functions like the back up light, A/C, headlights, defogger, and Cruise Control are all pinouts in the ECU. I think once I get the car running I will figure out how to run 12V power to them. I will also need to determine what are sensors for CEL and what actually control something on the car. This is going to take some time.

You don't actually need to wire the majority of those to the ecu. Just stick with the basics of fuel and spark to get the engine running.
Stuff like the defogger input is just there to make the factory ecu idle up when there is an electrical load placed on it. The DIYPNP just monitors its own voltage and allows you to tune for that stuff without an extra input.

As far as AC, I didn't need to fully wire to the ecu to get it to work. All I did was supply an input signal so that the diypnp would know to initial AC idle up... but I would still wait to set that up once you have the car running.

So I have calibrated all the sensors and set up the fuel map and the car will not start. It does turnover but will not start. What am I doing wrong? I have the following ignition settings.

Spark Mode: Toothed Wheel
Trigger Angle: 4.00
Main/Return: 50.0
Odd fire Angle: 90
GM HEI/DIS: Off
Use Cam Signal: On
Ignition Input Capture: Falling Edge
Spark Output: Going High
Number of Coils: Wasted Spark
Dwell type: Standard Dwell
Cranking Dwell: 7.5
Cranking Advance: 10
Maximum Dwell: ?
Maximum Spark Duration: ?
Trigger wheel arrangement: Single Wheel with Missing Tooth
Trigger wheel teeth: 36
Missing teeth: 1
Tooth #1 angle: 0
Wheel speed: Crank Wheel
Second trigger active on
and every rotation of: Rising Edge

[HardHead93]

I still can't seem to figure it out. The car turns over but will not start. Occasionally it will sputter and almost start so I know it is getting fuel. I put the stock ECU back in with the piggyback and the car started right up. I wonder if it has something to do with the adjustable pull up resistor on the board for the cam and crank sensors. I has the same issue with the AEM FIC piggyback when I put too big of a resistor for the mod to clean up the cam and crank signals. I have the crank sensor running through the LM1815 circuit for a cleaner signal and still nothing. I will see if I can adjust the pull up resistance.

This post has been edited by HardHead93: Dec 7, 2015 - 9:10 AM

[lagos]

Sorry for the lack of help, been really busy.

I see that you don't have the pull down resistor installed in R21. This is key to getting a cam/crank signal from a Toyota distributor.
The DIYPNP kit supplies you with an extra resistor (I think its a 50kohm?). For my build, I went with a 33kohm as I heard that's what the diyautotune guys settled with for the built 3sgte mspnp units. There is also an adjustable trim pot supplied with the kit that you can try, but I would start out with the fixed resistor. Actually, just noticed that you have the trim pot in there, so you can try adjusting that.

To verify that you are getting cam/crank signals in the Diagnostics & High Speed Loggers section of Turner Studio. Just click to start the logger and crank the car. You should be seeing your cam/crank signals. Adjust the trim pot until you start getting a reading.

PM me your email address, I will send you my excel spread sheet that I made for my car, as well as my current tune. My engine is a 3sgte, but all the settings should be very similar to the 5sfe to get it to start. Just make sure you setup/scale your injectors so that you are not flooding the engine.

This post has been edited by lagos: Dec 8, 2015 - 12:28 PM

[lagos]

Spark Mode: Toothed Wheel
Trigger Angle: 4.00
Main/Return: 50.0
Odd fire Angle: 90
GM HEI/DIS: Off
Use Cam Signal: On
Ignition Input Capture: Falling Edge
Spark Output: Going High
Number of Coils: Wasted Spark
Dwell type: Standard Dwell
Cranking Dwell: 7.5
Cranking Advance: 10
Maximum Dwell: ?
Maximum Spark Duration: ?
Trigger wheel arrangement: Single Wheel with Missing Tooth
Trigger wheel teeth: 36
Missing teeth: 1
Tooth #1 angle: 0
Wheel speed: Crank Wheel
Second trigger active on
and every rotation of: Rising Edge

Some of these settings are also different than what Im using in my tune.
A big one that stands out is that you are setup for waste spark, and mine is setup for single coil.
Also your Tooth 1 angle is at 0, and mine is a 37. Tooth 1 angle is how you set your base ignition timing, so having that at zero would cause some issues. I think that working from my tune map will help you clear up some of these settings.

Also for the cam signal, we have G1 and G2. You can use either one. For my distributor, I had trouble getting a signal from G1 so I switched to G2. Switching these might also affect your tooth 1 angle. The angle I posted is what I'm using on G2.

This post has been edited by lagos: Dec 8, 2015 - 12:42 PM

[mkernz22]

Spark Mode: Toothed Wheel
Trigger Angle: 4.00
Main/Return: 50.0
Odd fire Angle: 90
GM HEI/DIS: Off
Use Cam Signal: On
Ignition Input Capture: Falling Edge
Spark Output: Going High
Number of Coils: Wasted Spark
Dwell type: Standard Dwell
Cranking Dwell: 7.5
Cranking Advance: 10
Maximum Dwell: ?
Maximum Spark Duration: ?
Trigger wheel arrangement: Single Wheel with Missing Tooth
Trigger wheel teeth: 36
Missing teeth: 1
Tooth #1 angle: 0
Wheel speed: Crank Wheel
Second trigger active on
and every rotation of: Rising Edge

Some of these settings are also different than what Im using in my tune.
A big one that stands out is that you are setup for waste spark, and mine is setup for single coil.
Also your Tooth 1 angle is at 0, and mine is a 37. Tooth 1 angle is how you set your base ignition timing, so having that at zero would cause some issues. I think that working from my tune map will help you clear up some of these settings.

Also for the cam signal, we have G1 and G2. You can use either one. For my distributor, I had trouble getting a signal from G1 so I switched to G2. Switching these might also affect your tooth 1 angle. The angle I posted is what I'm using on G2.

Yeah, we don't have a wasted spark setup on the 3sgte.
One engine I can think of that does run that is the 1mzfe on certain years of the engine.
Basically, there's one coil for each cylinder on the front bank, which then has a wire running to a corresponding cylinder on the rear bank.

[lagos]

Any progress on this project?

[lagos]

Also, I just found a very cool time lapse video of someone building a DIYPNP.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n9OTCb-aS5k