1999 Celica GT with VVT-I Inside, new video up 8/6/22 Options

[Batman722]

first thing, I told you on page 1 the US celica pump is the same on the Beams, you even quoted me.

ok, so what do you think your A/F ratio should be (for your Beams more specificaly) ?

do you think the Beams (or any stock motor) is tuned to the highest torque curve for every rpm band ?

If you really think it is, then why the f would most of the beams MR2 guys use safc/neos or simple piggybacks for tuning ?

It's a stock motor, stock tune, it runs rich. Take out the wideband because having a wideband on an n/a motor without any sort of reason to have it (like a piggyback or ems) is useless.

[czwalga]

first thing, I told you on page 1 the US celica pump is the same on the Beams, you even quoted me.

ok, so what do you think your A/F ratio should be (for your Beams more specificaly) ?

do you think the Beams (or any stock motor) is tuned to the highest torque curve for every rpm band ?

If you really think it is, then why the f would most of the beams MR2 guys use safc/neos or simple piggybacks for tuning ?

It's a stock motor, stock tune, it runs rich. Take out the wideband because having a wideband on an n/a motor without any sort of reason to have it (like a piggyback or ems) is useless.

Pretty much agree. Get it on the dyno if you really want to find out, but I have a feeling its fine you were just expecting more.

You have it backwards, you want to fix the problem and get it on the dyno. Should be the other way get it on the dyno to see if you have a problem. Why guess when you can just find out...

[BonzaiCelica]

well I mixed a near perfect 94 octane fuel in the car about a week or so ago. Then ordered two of the same diameter, but longer in length honeycomb filters. Stuck them together with duck tape, and put them inside the intake like so:





I thought the low fuel had to be one of the reason to me running rich but actually had nothing to do with after all. I shortly noticed this about 30 min after filling up with the racing fuel So I installed the honeycomb filter which happens to stick about 1 cm in front of the AFM Sensor, reset the ecu and went for a drive. Unsatisfying results as my air/fuel ratio was indeed at the same... One thing that did get better was my idle. I no longer have a rough idle and it stayed at a constant 800rpm for at least 2 minutes

Now onto checking fuel pressure which should be anywhere between 38-44psi and if that fails me, then off to finding an oem fuel pump...

This post has been edited by BonzaiCelica: Nov 5, 2011 - 3:56 AM

[njccmd2002]

got a question, what did u do with this sensor...



since u dont have the original oem intake

[BonzaiCelica]

I'm at a loss for words. But what the hell is that. It must of been stuck to the intake??

Also I need to weld a bung to my intake piping, where can I take it? an exhaust shop??? So I can reconnect the exhaust crank case vent hose.

[Batman722]

that's a vaccum sensor for the charcoal canister.
the beams only has 2 or 3 vac lines, that's 2 of them. From the TB to the sensor to the canister.

[njccmd2002]

thats another sensor missing.. then... did you plug those lines or would it cause a leak?

[delusionz]

that looks more like a vacuum solenoid valve than a sensor to me

[delusionz]

no way man beams has 7 more pounds of torque than the 5sfe. I should be able to feel the torque down low. I'm not driving a torque less honda engine!!

7ftlbs is f**k all. you could offset 7ftlbs by what you had for lunch.

Also I need to weld a bung to my intake piping, where can I take it? an exhaust shop??? So I can reconnect the exhaust crank case vent hose.

you never told us that... with the oil breathers you either have all of them plugged in or none at all, best bet is to run both to a catch can. having the pcv plugged in without the breather will throw AFR's off with a MAF sensor

as with the idler tube, has to be plugged in..

This post has been edited by delusionz: Jul 22, 2011 - 12:19 AM

[BonzaiCelica]

Yes my pcv has always been plugged into the intake manifold.


Well I got quoted $25 to weld the exhaust side breather into the aluminum intake piping. Thought it through and thought wait it will be permanently on their. So I dug through some boxes of extra hardware I had in my garage and got these results:






Air to Fuel Ratio still the same as before I installed the honeycomb filter and fitted the exhaust breather hose. Starting to suspect that its the fuel pump, still have to test the pressure before making assumptions, but as Batman (since he knows way more than I do). Should be obtaining my oem intake sometime within the next 2 weeks as well as with the idler tube!!

Can someone get me a picture of the idler tube connected on their car please. I ask this because I don't see any extra plugs laying near the throttle body???

This post has been edited by BonzaiCelica: Nov 20, 2013 - 9:08 PM

[Batman722]

that's it right there.
It goes from the trottle body to the valve then to the canister.

[njccmd2002]

but since it interferes with the brake reservoir..


i made a bracket...'

[BonzaiCelica]

I checked my engine bay the other day and yes I do have that Vaccuum Switch Valve present on my engine. It's attached onto the chassis of the car with a bracket as well.

[njccmd2002]

why make it so complicated, attach sensor and put oem pump and test the car... You keep talking about the air fuel ratio, i never even close had problems with that.

Stop reinventing the wheel, just do what Dustin tells you and go from there...

all beams are equal, mine is not special, i dont need that honeycomb crap, a/f measurement and ****. you keep wasting your money like that, keep it simple...

[TRD-Corolla]

you dont need that vsv valve, it's for the charcoal canister, if you remove ur charcoal canister, u can just unplug everything from and to the vsv, plug from the TB as well. That's what I did to mine, and the vsv is just hanging there, i havn't had time to completely remove it yet.

Have you replaced your fuel filter yet? It's a good idea to replace ur fuel filter because when I replaced mine, I learned that the previous owner used a bolt that was too long and restricted fuel flow from the lines.

As for the intake, i was gonna tell you this earlier, but i agree with the guy above my post, you dont need that crap. Here's the secret, it's about maf placement. If u look at bill sherwoods ae86 beams blacktop, he repositioned his maf from his original spot.

Lastly, pay the $50 bucks to have a shop dyno ur car! They'll tell you everything wrong with ur car forsure!

This post has been edited by TRD-Corolla: Jul 25, 2011 - 4:31 AM

[BonzaiCelica]

ya someone else on beams forums mentioned as well that the vsv valve wasn't important at all. The owner said he already replaced the fuel filter. Placement of the MAF??? He had straws right before the MAF Sensor which is the same set up that I have right now.

I rented a Fuel Pressure Gauge. I connected the fuel pressure gauge to the top of the fuel filter along with the banjo line. Put a paper clip in the diagnostic box where the fp and +b terminals are. Turned the ignition to the on position but didnt get a reading on the fuel pressure gauge. What am I doing wrong!! I didnt test to see if there was 12 volts on the battery. That shouldn't really matter right?? I don't have a multi meter by the way.

[epocsirhc]

How can you expect to diagnose without a dvom? Did you smell gas when you were testing? It might be possible you didn't tighten the banjo down or some aliens are messing with you...

[BonzaiCelica]

How can you expect to diagnose without a dvom? Did you smell gas when you were testing? It might be possible you didn't tighten the banjo down or some aliens are messing with you...

naw I didnt smell gas. I already have local 6gc member helping me out with the fuel pressure issue

oh update more for bragging rights:

I bought my car for only $600!!

Had payment (interest free) plan with my grandma for 5 years. So I paid her a few times, lost my job, then last saturday she told me she would give it to me as a gift since my bro and my cousin got their cars for free as well. In exchange she wants me to figure out my schooling major asap as a return of payment!!! score

[BonzaiCelica]

okay so earlier today I went to the exhaust shop and they took out my old (no name brand) broken catalytic converter out and they replaced it with a straight pipe.

I took it out for a test drive right after and now my car is backfiring. I didn't see any flames, I was driving the car with my brother and we both heard the car backfire. I've read that it could be many different variables :

Its running rich (even though no ones knows exact stock beams air/fuel), but an 11 air/fuel ratio isn't that rich?
Ignition Timing??

Mainly just the fact that I removed the catalytic converter right? I get the backfire when I'm rev matching the engine to the transmission.

[SwissFerdi]

Pardon me if I might be basic, but maybe you're just hearing a new pops and noises associated with the straight pipe, rather than misfiring.

This post has been edited by SwissFerdi: Aug 16, 2011 - 9:41 AM