TiGZ461: FIX OR DITCH THREAD Options

[TiGZ461]

Sup guys,

As most of you here know, I was planning to rid of the Celi. But I've come to think of it, that I'm better off fixing it and just keeping it as my daily. A couple problems with it, but most seem fairly easy. Don't know why I was giving up so quick. But anyway, I figured I'd atleast have some fun with these problems and learn as I do, or get rid of it for good. And right now I guess I'll stick with it, because it does get me from where I want to the next with no issues.

Problem 1:

NO heat what so ever. I turn it full blast and no luck. I once had someone open I think it was the heater core or switch (which is in the engine bay near the firewall on the driver side) and when they did this I had heat. But after about 2 days same deal, no heat. What could this be? Theromastat?

Problem 2:

The indicator on the dashboard, which shows when the car has reached running temp. (say winter time when you let the car warm, and the needle goes up when the car starts to warm), well that never goes up no matter how long I run it. MAYBE at times when it's really hot out it goes up maybe 1/4 of the way up , stays there for awhile and then goes back to C which is where it's at when the car is cold. What could this be? I have two fans connected and they are always on, could this be the cause? The only way I could turn off the other fan is if I disconnect it.

Problem 3:

The car at time feels so forced, it feels as if it's clogged or something. Feels real stuck in place and then you feel a pull late within the gear. What could this be?

Problem 4:

Weird low knocking sound from the engine. Not loud, very soft knock. What could cause this?

Maintance:

Car has 161,XXX Miles, what should I change to have it running it's best and get the most out of my engine? I know close to little, when it comes to car's. I can do brake jobs and such, but I still have a rough time on the pity stuff. So if you guys can tell me what I should do, and give me a brief run-through, it'd be great.

[SwissFerdi]

I've heard that every 7A-FE has a ticking, and it comes from the injectors. Not sure if that's what you're hearing, but I have the same thing. However, your knock and your power loss could be related, so that should be looked into.

I think your temp issue might be your thermostat, and since your engine isn't getting up to temp, it's not creating heat. I could be wrong with this though.

This post has been edited by SwissFerdi: May 7, 2010 - 4:01 PM

[TiGZ461]

Never heard of the ticking on the 7a's before, I'll check that out next time I'm at the car. Might be what I'm hearing, but also could not and like you said, could relate to the power loss.

I replaced the thermostat a while back, but what I did notice was that the thermostat that I replaced had no bleeder hole and the one I put in also didn't . I've seen a few people here change them and use the theromstat with the bleeder hole, could this be the problem?

[soulshadow]

Have you run a full radiator flush with some kind of cleaner? Sounds like you got gunk build ups in the block. Happens if you filled up your rad with tap water or in some rare cases, water from a river.

I would do a compression test to see if the cylinders are up to code.
Any more problems and its prob a good time to trade it or sell it and get something different.
Short on cash? I wouldn't say its the best but its time to get a Honda at least you can get parts cheap and engines just as cheap.

This post has been edited by soulshadow: May 7, 2010 - 5:03 PM

[TiGZ461]

Gonna go ahead and do the compression test when I get a chance.

And when I filled the rad up (mind you it had no radiator when I bought the car), I had the heat on full blast, and waited till the upper hose turned hot. I used coolant from autozone, forgot the brand but it was a 50/50 mix. I let the car run till I saw no bubbles, but I did it again say 2-3weeks after and it seemed to have big bubbles coming up, let it run again till they left. I feel as if the block (if it's possible) has alot of air bubbles. When I had the car on a felt suface I got no bubbles, on a slant, I got big ones.

I forgot to add there was crum like things when I removed the radiator cap. What could that mean?

And yea, I wanna see if it's worth it before I start anything. If not it's time for a replacement.

[richee3]

Don't get me wrong. I like Celicas. But I don't love them. As a car that you can get in and expect it to start up and run every single day to get you to where you need to go, and maybe have some fun along the way, it's a great car. As an economical car, it's again a great car. It costs almost nothing to run. However, no matter how you look at it, they are still old cars. They will still need constant maintenance and repairs. I sold my old Celica at my parents' request in favor of a newer car. I lasted a month before I bought another Celica. I know the new Celica is going to be a money pit. I know it will always need something. But it's a toy. As a DD, I don't regret not having the Celica and all of it's problems. I wish I still had it as a spare car, but not as a DD. I guess what I'm really trying to say is that you should probably ditch the Celica and go for something newer. There are plenty of cars out there that will offer a lot more fun and be more reliable. They won't be as cheap to operate, but you have to pay to play.

[stwin2]

try testing ur water pump. almost the same thing happened to me, and it was the water pump. and if it is the water pump, i have one that has less than 5k on it and will sell cheap.

[soulshadow]

Crumb crap on your cap means they filled it with tap water. Because when you boil tap water it leaves a residue known as lime and silica and that my friend is what is lurking inside your engine.

[samir0189]

i wouldn't ditch it over these problems...... id at least make an attempt first.

i agree you should run some kinda radiator flush man, sounds gunky. that may solve issues 1 and 2....

and for the thermostat, the bleeder thing you are mentioning may be cause for the trapped air and the erratic temp readings. it is called a "jiggle" valve, it bleeds air and prevents overheating... or so i was told. ANYWAY, i got a brand new OEM quality @ carquest (it looked exactly the same as my toyota one, down to the markings and all) it was like $20, but worth it, the cheaper ones dont have the valve! or get it from the stealership for about $20 as well.

when last did you do a tune up? plugs, wires, air filter, fuel filter.. clean throttle body/intake manifold, run some fuel additive in the tank, ... all those things might help your #3. as far as #4............... idk. run the compression test.... i dont think these motors are quiet ones. my 5s can sound like a truck sometimes.

good luck with whatever way you go buddy.

This post has been edited by samir0189: May 8, 2010 - 10:11 PM

[soulshadow]

I suggest you disconnect the heater core hoses and see if its clogged up. Then run some kind of pressure through those hoses and see if anything comes shooting back out. There seems to be multiple problems here but it looks like your just not getting any heat and the problem with the fans always running suggests something else. I would disconnect the fans, run the engine till hot and see if your Temp gauge is going up. It could possible be your temp sensor for the fans going bad for it to kick in all the time. I had this problem when I did my 4age swap. The fans would spin non-stop for as long as the car is on, but my aftermarket temp gauge always went up. If your motor is hot and your temp gauge stays the same, I think your temp gauge is broken.

[TiGZ461]

Temp gauge goes up at times even with the fans on. And when fan's are disconnected it will shoot up pretty quick. How could I possibly make the fans come on only when needed? I sound like a jet plane when I pull up to someone with both fans always on.

[soulshadow]

I was browsing through Dakota Digital and found this.
Fan controller

It controls your fans and turns them on at the temp you set. Not really sure on the details since I haven't tried it before.

[STCelica]

The temp prob could just be ur temp sending unit and if not that the the guage itself. As far as the heat goes it could be the blend door or maybe your heater core is clogged. When you turn your dail on the temp selectior does the little arm under the hood on the driver side fire wall move. Maybe the cable is no good. The knocking could be a few things. Could be piston slap, maybe a worn rod bearing or crank bearing. I don't thunk u should get rid of the car over these probs depending on what the knocking is though. If it's the injectors u here ticking then that's coming my supra does it and my last 4 celicas did it and the one I just rebuild does it. Common on Toyotas. I think celicas are great cars and I'm always on the hunt for them. Fix her and drive. Good luck.

[TiGZ461]

Car is now giving off a bad carbon smell. Everytime I start it up and what not. Besides that car seems to be acting pretty normal besides the ticking, fan, and heat issue, the car has become really responsive. Don't know why, but it no longer lags.

Might be picking up a 90 Accord coupe this or next weekend, basically trading my rims for it. Needs a distributer, but meh, I could have that changed , have a daily and then see what I do with the Celi.

[HectortheRican]

Never heard of the ticking on the 7a's before, I'll check that out next time I'm at the car. Might be what I'm hearing, but also could not and like you said, could relate to the power loss.

I replaced the thermostat a while back, but what I did notice was that the thermostat that I replaced had no bleeder hole and the one I put in also didn't . I've seen a few people here change them and use the theromstat with the bleeder hole, could this be the problem?

I can vouch for the ticking. I get the same noise from my 7A's injectors

[soulshadow]

Clogged cat maybe? Smells like you got an exhaust leak.