Chee La's celica progression thread thing, 7AFE ---> Greytop BEAMS Options

[navseal345]

I'll take the drivers side vent. Please.

The mechanism that stops the air flow took a crap on mine & is basically stuck shut.

[bloodMoney]

Yea... Take pics of the door trim please and let me know if you are feeling like going through the trouble of pulling them out of there. I'm going to be buying new ones when the car goes down for paint, but another set won't hurt.

[cheela]

I'll take the drivers side vent. Please.

The mechanism that stops the air flow took a crap on mine & is basically stuck shut.

no problem. It's already collecting dust in my basement somewhere. Once I find it, it's yours. lol

Yea... Take pics of the door trim please and let me know if you are feeling like going through the trouble of pulling them out of there. I'm going to be buying new ones when the car goes down for paint, but another set won't hurt.

It poured last night so I couldn't get out there but I do have some pics from the other day I'll text you.

[navseal345]

Did the coupe have a sunroof?

[cheela]

Did the coupe have a sunroof?

sorry. no sunroof.

[CoolZeen]

Did the coupe have a sunroof?

What you need from the sunroof?. there is a few on the yards on my area.

[TimeslideZ]

Happy Birthday bro, did the car come alive as a present?

[cheela]

Happy Birthday bro, did the car come alive as a present?

Thanks bro!

Well the BEAMS party was good. We got spark when we swapped out the harness but it was a mess and needed some cleaning up. I was able to start it a few days later and it was running for a very short time due to a massive vacuum leak. We threw everything together and bolts were only hand tight so the intake manifold was very loose and leaking. lol.

A couple days later, I tightened everything down again and tried to start it again but got no CEL and no spark again which is weird. but when I took the key out, the fans would stay on and the CEL would light up faintly. I'm hoping it's just something was loose like a ground somewhere but I gotta go over it some more. We had spark and it was running so not too far off now. It's just too bad that winter hit Wisconsin early and we're in the single digits already. I'm sure Minnesota isn't any better.

haven't posted in my thread for a while so I guess this is an update for everyone as well. haha
I did swap out my puny ST brakes to a set of GT brakes and got the car back down on the ground and pushed into the corner to make room for my 1st gen to snuggle together in the garage. But as old cars go, the 1st gen developed a big fuel leak. The fuel hose going to the carb split from old age and cold maybe? so I switched that out with a new one and then a new leak spring right underneath the fuel filter where another hose is I believe. I'll have to change that out too or else push it into the garage so it's not out all winter.

[NgoFcukinWay]

might as well take this time to swap out every and all rubber hoses while you're at. Will save you the hassle later on down the road.

[cheela]

might as well take this time to swap out every and all rubber hoses while you're at. Will save you the hassle later on down the road.

I hear ya. For now, I just need it in the damn barn but I also don't want it to catch fire. J-Tin doesn't like being outside in winter. It's under a carport but snow still blows on it. Not fun.

[njccmd2002]

what keeping the car from running

[Bitter]

I think you know just enough about cars to kill yourself, lol. spring time re-fix-it meet!?

[navseal345]

I think you know just enough about cars to kill yourself, lol. spring time re-fix-it meet!?

That would be fun. Could definitely make that one.

[Bitter]

Plans set lol, just not this one week in march that I'm busy.

Chee, if you're patching that split rubber fuel line on the engine you DO NOT want to use regular 'fuel hose' from the parts store. It's ****ty single wall fuel line that rots out and turns rock hard after a few years. It's really vacuum hose they're selling for fuel hose and it's super ****ty and unsafe. You want dual wall high pressure rubber fuel line, buy it somewhere online, it'll last for decades and not turn hard and crack. Also you want rubber ONLY where needed, I see older cars where they've got rubber hose strung and zip tied snaked through the engine bay in all kinds of unsafe ways just begging to get damaged and start a fire. Get some copper/nickel hard line and fab metal fuel line as much as possible, obviously you'll need rubber at flex points like from the frame to the engine and maybe a short section from the line to the carb but really nothing much else, certainly keep rubber sections to less than a foot.

Gates Barricade hose is what you want, or the equivalent from Continental. Also use Oetiker clamps or fuel hose clamps NOT worm clamps as they cut into the hose over time and need to be re-tightened to prevent leaks.
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=gates+barricade+...ef=nb_sb_noss_2
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=continental+elit...b_sb_ss_sc_1_22
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=oetiker+fuel+lin...=nb_sb_ss_i_1_8
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=fuel+line+hose+c...nb_sb_ss_i_3_10

Good news is all that stuff is high enough grade to use on any vehicle including Celica's with modern fuel injection. Personally I'd just run an all new line from the fuel sender with either nylon or make a hard line from copper/nickel, that way you know it's done right and it won't suck air or leak fuel. I know it's a no pressure system but man I've seen what even a small fuel fire can do to a car and that's the fastest way to send one to the junk yard when you burn up hard/impossible to get parts.

[cheela]

I think you know just enough about cars to kill yourself, lol. spring time re-fix-it meet!?

yup, that's actually pretty accurate.

Plans set lol, just not this one week in march that I'm busy.

Chee, if you're patching that split rubber fuel line on the engine you DO NOT want to use regular 'fuel hose' from the parts store. It's ****ty single wall fuel line that rots out and turns rock hard after a few years. It's really vacuum hose they're selling for fuel hose and it's super ****ty and unsafe. You want dual wall high pressure rubber fuel line, buy it somewhere online, it'll last for decades and not turn hard and crack. Also you want rubber ONLY where needed, I see older cars where they've got rubber hose strung and zip tied snaked through the engine bay in all kinds of unsafe ways just begging to get damaged and start a fire. Get some copper/nickel hard line and fab metal fuel line as much as possible, obviously you'll need rubber at flex points like from the frame to the engine and maybe a short section from the line to the carb but really nothing much else, certainly keep rubber sections to less than a foot.

Gates Barricade hose is what you want, or the equivalent from Continental. Also use Oetiker clamps or fuel hose clamps NOT worm clamps as they cut into the hose over time and need to be re-tightened to prevent leaks.
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=gates+barricade+...ef=nb_sb_noss_2
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=continental+elit...b_sb_ss_sc_1_22
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=oetiker+fuel+lin...=nb_sb_ss_i_1_8
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=fuel+line+hose+c...nb_sb_ss_i_3_10

Good news is all that stuff is high enough grade to use on any vehicle including Celica's with modern fuel injection. Personally I'd just run an all new line from the fuel sender with either nylon or make a hard line from copper/nickel, that way you know it's done right and it won't suck air or leak fuel. I know it's a no pressure system but man I've seen what even a small fuel fire can do to a car and that's the fastest way to send one to the junk yard when you burn up hard/impossible to get parts.

and yes, that's what happened with these hoses. I beleive the previous owner just rigged this up with cheap fuel hoses and so both of them split. I got a new hose online and was able to get into the garage for storage. I'll have to check and see if the fuel line I got is up to par with those or not. If not, I'll switch it out once springtime hits. thanks!

[Bitter]

We charge double for your kind at the shop cause we got to un fix whatever you did and then fix what was wrong in the first place.

"I replaced everything and it's worse now than when I started!"

This post has been edited by Bitter: Nov 11, 2019 - 5:24 AM

[cheela]

We charge double for your kind at the shop cause we got to un fix whatever you did and then fix what was wrong in the first place.

"I replaced everything and it's worse now than when I started!"

define "worse"......

[njccmd2002]

sooo....

[cheela]

sooo....

update.

so........... I started cleaning up the garage so I can start working on it again.?

[cheela]

*blows dust off the thread*

so.... where were we??

I believe before we left off last time, I had set up a BEAMS meet at my house.
It was successful and the midwest crew came out to help me swap harnesses and tie up a couple loose ends.
At the end of the night we were able to get it started and hear it run if only for a moment.

After the meet, I did tighten everything down as we were scrambling and throwing things together to get it to run. So after tightening it I was able to start it again
but then I let it sit over winter while I worked on finishing Freelica and getting that ready to sell. After selling it, I jumped back into the BEANS but now I'm back to where I started or a few steps behind that even. Now it's no start no crank where as before it cranked but no start. I checked over everything again, changed out AM1 fuse, ECU fuse, checked all related fuses, looked at the COR, ECU, grounds, etc. Even took off the starter to test and it still spins. but when I put the starter back on and tried jumping it, no go. Feels like I'm not getting a signal to the starter anymore. Not sure what changed between then and now as I didn't touch it at all but I'm not sure what to do anymore. any help would be appreciated. I'll text/PM some of you later.