Chee La's celica progression thread thing, 7AFE ---> Greytop BEAMS Options

[cheela]

You did a good job of editing the jack stands out of those pictures and adding a background behind the car!

Just kidding. If the temp gauge stayed normal, I would suspect exhaust to be the source of the heat. It doesn’t hurt to do a once-over of the cooking system and make sure you aren’t low and have no bubbles in the system now that you’re starting to put a few miles on the swap.

You've got quite the eye for my photoshop tricks.

Ah, yea totally forgot that my exhaust is currently pouring right back up into my engine bay basically. That would make the most sense. I'll take a look a the cooling system as well just in case I made noob mistakes because I'm a noob.

[Tigawoods]

what tow service did you use to get the car to that location? were they expensive?

[cheela]

what tow service did you use to get the car to that location? were they expensive?

The nationwide BEAMS towing company.
Phone is 1-800-BROKE-CELI
They don't charge anything except for pity and a handful of shameful stares. (I can still feel the stares on me...)

[Bitter]

I mean...I know it's been a long time since you've driven something 'performance' but man cars get hot! Also if you're missing ANY heat shields that'll really get the hood super hot, plus that's an aluminum hood so it moves heat through it with great efficiency. There's a reason the 7th gen has the scoop in the hood...it's not for getting air to the engine IT'S FOR GETTING AIR PAST THE EXHAUST so you don't set the car on fire and melt stuff on the other side of the engine bay bulkhead! At idle you can just watch the heat rising out of the scoop and feel it if you're near it, reverses to become a chimney when sitting still

If heat still seems like an issue you can wrap some of the exhaust, as long as it's good quality stainless, get it ceramic coated to *help* with radiated heat, or fabricobble some additional heat shields. There's also the time tested and track approved method outlined below in this video.
https://youtu.be/G3ja6Hn8ps4

[cheela]

I mean...I know it's been a long time since you've driven something 'performance' but man cars get hot! Also if you're missing ANY heat shields that'll really get the hood super hot, plus that's an aluminum hood so it moves heat through it with great efficiency. There's a reason the 7th gen has the scoop in the hood...it's not for getting air to the engine IT'S FOR GETTING AIR PAST THE EXHAUST so you don't set the car on fire and melt stuff on the other side of the engine bay bulkhead! At idle you can just watch the heat rising out of the scoop and feel it if you're near it, reverses to become a chimney when sitting still

If heat still seems like an issue you can wrap some of the exhaust, as long as it's good quality stainless, get it ceramic coated to *help* with radiated heat, or fabricobble some additional heat shields. There's also the time tested and track approved method outlined below in this video.
https://youtu.be/G3ja6Hn8ps4

hey....... my matrix is both an XR and AWD model. The more letters you have the more performance so that's PLENTY of performance.
Maybe you're right and I'm just being overcautious. Never had the fender get that hot though so it might be because of the CF hood. Also I'm missing some gaskets in the header and the exhaust is still cut after the b pipe so that would add some heat under the hood. I'll monitor it after fixing those two things. Might have to follow Tigawoods and cut a big ol hole in my hood as well.

[njccmd2002]

nice teggy, when did you buy one?

[cheela]

nice teggy, when did you buy one?

teggy typo ARGH! medium rare yo!

#nottriggered #kindatriggered

[cheela]

BUMP!

brake lines busted.

that is all..

k, thanks bai.

[navseal345]

Bought time.

[Bitter]

BUMP!

brake lines busted.

that is all..

k, thanks bai.

I've gotten pretty good at doing those, post up if you need any tips.
Titan 51535 3/16-Inch Double Flaring Tool https://a.co/d/1srRTZu
This makes really good flares really easily just zap it with my impact gun lol. If you want it to look OEM get the line straightener, if you want it to last forever get the copper nickel line. You'll probably want to do the fuel lines at the same time.

[njccmd2002]

Meh??

[richee3]

Rubber line or hard line? Either way, upgrade to some stainless braided lines! The hard lines are still available from Toyota. I just did ours a few years ago. Definitely the most expensive way to do the job but I didn’t want to deal with straightening the lines or anything. A good set of flare wrenches is a must for the job.

[cheela]

Rubber line or hard line? Either way, upgrade to some stainless braided lines! The hard lines are still available from Toyota. I just did ours a few years ago. Definitely the most expensive way to do the job but I didn’t want to deal with straightening the lines or anything. A good set of flare wrenches is a must for the job.

hard lines at the rear right by the fuel tank. like bitter said, I'll probably have to check the fuel lines at the same time. but I got the tool he linked up there and some copper nickel lines and line cutter, unions etc. so it'll get done sometime when I feel like going into my cramp cold dusty garage.

[navseal345]

I'd rather help people work on their own **** than me working on my ****.

Make sense? LOL

Sort of wish we all lived closer together.

[Bitter]

Same! Party at Cheelas in the spring to do brake and fuel linesand eat some butt.

[navseal345]

Egg rolls filled with butt?!?!

I'm so down!