Project: I dunno yet ('99 GT), NOW with pictures & video [IN COLOR]! (Update BOTTOM of pg.5) Options

[Bitter]

OE clamps are great, dealer still sells them.

[navseal345]

Uh? Thought drain plugs on the bottom of radiators had some sort of o-ring, oh well.

Puts car back together & adds some coolant.

Starts leaking from drain plug.

WTF!

Moves car back a little... And takes a look under car.

There you are! You Son of A B*tch!

[navseal345]

Okay.... So... Issue returns!!

I was bleeding the cooling system, had hand on the throttle to hurry it along... Fans come on & a few seconds later the car starts stumbling & dies. Interesting. Wait less than 30 seconds, starts right up no issues. Hand on throttle to get rpms back up, fans come on... and a few seconds later car stumbles & dies. No CEL.

????

This post has been edited by navseal345: Jun 11, 2022 - 5:28 PM

[navseal345]

So I had restarted if after letting it cool down for a few minutes... Started right back up, held throttle, fans kick on, few seconds later car stumbles again but only died after I let go of throttle.

Again let it cool for a minute or two & just let the car idle all by itself until the fans come on. Fans come on, & few seconds after car dies. It could have stumbled but since it was at idle it just died.

[Bitter]

What a coincidence, I'm doing cooling system work too!

So it's for sure a hot issue. What we need to know is what you're not getting when it stalls or doesn't restart, but being able to duplicate the problem in the driveway is MUCH better than being on the side of the road somewhere. You're going to want 2 noid lights, a spark tester, and a multimeter handy so you can test things while it's failing when hot. Probe one noid light into the 2 wire connector to the ignition coil, the other noid light into a fuel injector, spark tester on a plug wire, and the multi-meter ready to measure resistance of the cam sensor in the distributor as well as the new ignition coil. It would be a good idea to get a fuel pressure gauge on the engine as well just to make sure it's not a pressure issue from a pump failing when hot. Not sure where's good to hook up to on the 5S.

https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-20610-Inline-S.../dp/B0002STSC6/ inline spark tester lets the engine run while seeing if there's spark.
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-27800-Universa.../dp/B0002SR57Q/ I like and use this noid light at work, put the thick adapters on it and get a set of these probes, crimp them down just a little with pliers and they grip onto the fat adapters and let you probe more easily.
https://www.amazon.com/destructive-Probes-I.../dp/B08FFHG5HR/ probes

You can make due with one noid light as long as you're quick to re-probe things while it's acting up or don't mind making it act up multiple times, for me though time is money so getting it all looked at in one go is worth the price.

[navseal345]

So since the 4 year old O'Reilly's special radiator cap fell apart when I removed it yesterday I went & got a new one from AutoZone, looks like a Gates brand one.

Anyways... Went through the process again. Fans come on, the first time it starts to stumble but not enough to make it die, fans come on a second time & stumbles bad enough that it died after I let off the throttle. It was on the 3rd or 4th time of stumbling that it stumbled bad enough to start flashing the CEL!! So I quickly used my little scanner to read it & it comes up with a: P0335 - Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit. The car died & wouldn't restart.

I'm just more excited that I was able to get a CEL outta the damn thing.

[Bitter]

It's very possible it's a bad CKP, having a code can really cut down on fumbling around to find the problem! I'm still not clear if that ECM times ignition/fuel from the crankshaft or camshaft, the service info I have is a little vague but I think it uses the CMP for telling it when the #1 TDC is to know when the revolution starts and the CKP for measuring engine speed and position between CMP signals. Diagnostics want you to use a scope to look at the sensor waveform and compare to the expected signal from the FSM, you can kind of shortcut that by just checking it's got power and ground and then guessing and replacing it as a maybe if it's not terribly expensive. It is behind the timing belt tho....so you might be doing a timing belt job with that sensor if it is the sensor. However, some cars are kind of stupid and will set a crankshaft sensor code for a bad camshaft sensor, but I don't believe that Toyota is one of the especially stupid ones.
G is the camshaft and NE is the crankshaft.

The Camshaft position sensor (G signal) consists of a signal plate and pick up coil.
The G signal plate has one tooth on its outer circumference and is mounted on the exhaust camshaft.
When the camshafts rotate, the protrusion on the signal plate and the air gap on the pick up coil change, causing fluctuations in the magnetic field and generating an electromotive force in the pick up coil.
The NE signal plate has 34 teeth and is mounted on the crankshaft. The NE signal sensor generates 34 signals for every engine revolution.
The ECM detects the standard crankshaft angle based on the G signals and the actual crankshaft angle and the engine speed by the NE signals.

I think the clearest solution is to just move up one year to a 2000 Celica.

This post has been edited by Bitter: Jun 12, 2022 - 4:52 PM

[navseal345]

So driving it to work so I could work on it... Maybe it's a good it's getting worse, because I made it half way & it did it again I had to pull over because it couldn't make it. Currently letting it cool down, lucky it's not to much farther to work.

[navseal345]

That didn't do to plan. Had to let it cool down for 2ish hours on the side of the road to drive it to the shop. I wasn't stuck on the the side of the road, went & did other things came back & made it to the shop.

Had lunch & a drink or "two" with a few friends. Had a great time. Much needed to say the least.

Basically wasn't able to work on the car. Maybe at a later date.

[Bitter]

The more broken it gets the easier to find the problem will be and the more confident you can be in your repair.

[navseal345]

The more broken it gets the easier to find the problem will be and the more confident you can be in your repair.

Sure hope it goes that way, lol.

[Bitter]

The more broken it gets the easier to find the problem will be and the more confident you can be in your repair.

Sure hope it goes that way, lol.

You got this!

[navseal345]

I AM MASTER AUTOMOTIVE TECHNICIAN!!!! (I hope) JACK OF ALL TRADES, MASTER OF NONE!

New crank sensor installed, all without taking the timing cover off. Ran until the fans came on a few times with high RPMs & at idle a few times no hesitation/ surging!

I FIX!!

Imma take it for a cruise, not to far from home or the shop tho, LOL.

[bryanf]

Sounds like great news.

[Bitter]

Best news I've seen all day today!

[bloodMoney]

Yay! I hope it stays fixed for you!

[navseal345]

Yay! I hope it stays fixed for you!

Me too.


To a point kinda nervous/ scared when I drive it. Especially at a traffic light or in heavy traffic & having it crap out, it's more embarrassing I guess, lol.

[cheela]

yay! now swap a beams into it!

[navseal345]

yay! now swap a beams into it!

Honestly it's tempting but not right now.

[bloodMoney]

If you want a good base gen2 3SGTE, I have the one I just pulled out of Stacy's car. It needs totally resealed, but it ran good.


Seriously. If you want it, I'll let it go cheap to you.