Richee3's Progress thread., Wilwood BBK installed. Options

[richee3]

You might be asking yourself, "Self, how does a person who just sold their Celica make a progress thread for a Celica?" The answer is easy: you go buy another Celica. So I picked up a '96 GT hatchback with a blown engine.

The story: My brother's friend got the car brand new in '97. It's a '96 model though... gotta wait until the end of the year so you can get a good deal on a car! So back in 1997, a slate gray Celica pulls into my driveway. I've never seen one before. My brother is always telling me about how fast the car is. Flash forward a few years and I find myself with a '96 ST sitting in my garage and I find out that my brother lied to me and that these cars aren't fast at all. So here I am, 3 Celicas and a Lexus IS 300 later, and I miss my Celica. I had my hopes up for a swap and a GT4 front end conversion. So what did I do? I called Marc tonight and asked him about his old Celica. I knew he never changed the oil and never even checked it. I knew he blew the engine up. Tranny is still good, body is still good. New brakes and tires. Even has good blades on the windshield wipers. So tonight I call him and ask if he still has the car and he said he'd let it go for $250. I was there in 30 minutes with a check in hand. The car I grew up watching, the Celica that made me love Celicas, is now mine. Forgive the bad pictures, since it was night before I got there to buy the car. Better pictures coming later.









Like I said, the motor is blown. Not a big deal since I am doing a swap anyway. It was lady driven at first, and ladies suck at driving (no offense, ladies.) So she cracked the skirts and had a body shop remove them. No big deal since I am putting TRD skirts on. The car needs paint. No big deal since I was painting it anyway. Needs a new head unit... You get the idea. That's literally the extent of things that are wrong with the car. Everything else is in good shape.

Plans for the car... I'm still undecided. It's definitely getting a 3S, whether it's a BEAMS or a 3rd gen -GTE.

So... here I am, 6gc. It was a long month without a Celica, but I'm back and I'm here to stay.

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Update: 5S-FE to BEAMS 3S-GE wiring explained with pictures:

• EA1 Plug: Pins 17 and 4 need to be bridged. Pin 17 needs power when pin 4 has it. Pin 17 is in the lower left corner, black w/red trace. Pin 4 is the big black wire at the top, center of the plug. Doing this gives the BEAMS spark. Pin 17 coming off of the EA1 plug can be snipped and covered up, left alone. (See picture 1.)
• EA1 Plug: Pins 2 and 12 need to be bridged. They are both ground wires, white w/black trace. (See picture 1.)
• Clutch start wire: Black w/yellow trace. This one is a bit tricky to explain. There are 3 vertical plugs next to the ECU. On the body side of the plugs, you have a white (19 pin) plug, light gray (13 pin) plug, and dark gray (17 pin) plug. The clutch start wire is pin 18 on the white plug. Move it to pin 17 on the dark gray plug. (Refer to picture 2.)
• If using your OEM tach and a tach adapter, you'll need to intercept the tach signal going from the ECU to the gauges. This comes from plug C, wire 27 on the ECU plugs. It's a gray wire. (Refer to picture 3.)
• Cruise control wiring: I have a 1998 USDM Celica. In my case, no wiring changes were necessary and my cruise control works perfectly. I believe that this is standard across the board of USDM Celicas, although some pre-98 models may still require changes. Further research from others is necessary.
• Airbag light: To get your airbag light to function properly, you run a wire from the EA1 plug to the light gray interior plug (either pin 4 or pin 5, I have read separate posts saying both and I chose not to do this step so I cannot confirm which pin it is.)

Picture 1. EA1 plug: At the top, pins 2 and 12 are bridged together. These are grounds. In the middle with the yellow butt connector, you can see pins 17 and 4 bridged together, red w/black trace and plain black wire. At the bottom of the picture, you can see the unused and covered wire that used to be pin 17.


Picture 2. Body plugs next to the ECU. Here you can see the clutch start wire in the bottom left corner, black w/yellow trace.


Picture 3. Plug C, wire 27. This is the tach signal wire that needs to be intercepted for a tach signal adapter.


This post has been edited by richee3: Aug 26, 2014 - 10:01 PM

[cheela]

should try the 2zz next. maybe you'll get a BEAMS with lift.

[navseal345]

This is funny.

[Bitter]

I think some of ya'll just need to go out and buy a damn 7th gen...

[richee3]

The goal here is passing emissions. Colorado emissions are pretty strict and older cars are put on a rolling road for an exhaust sniff test. Getting most older cars to pass isn’t an issue as long as it has been reasonably maintained but in the case of a swapped car with no EGR and a cheap Magnaflow two gas high flow cat, there’s no way it will pass. Then 2020 happens and people are keeping their distance from each other and trying to limit contact, to which Colorado emissions stations have responded by not doing sniff tests and instead only checking for OBDII compliance. When I was initially doing my swap I came across a thread from Doug Copeland where he learned that a 1ZZ ECU will actually run a Redtop. I looked this thread back up and found that sure enough, a 1ZZ ECU runs the e fine surprisingly well. There are 3 differences in the wiring, one of which is the W pin. If I can get this working, then I can move this car right through emissions.

Upon initial test, I found that the 1ZZ ECU does in fact get the engine running, although the CEL doesn’t work.



Comparing pinouts with some help from Jordan, I moved the W pin on my harness from E2, pin 6 to pin 15. This got the light working perfectly but still can’t connect my OBDII scanner.





Currently doing some research to see what it will take to get the OBD scanner to connect. It may be easy to or could be a giant nightmare and not worthwhile.



The acute observer will notice that the ST205 had Colorado plates where the BEAMS remains registered in Indiana, if this gives you any idea of the issues I face with Colorado emissions with a swapped car.

[navseal345]

You could always move somewhere else, just saying.

[Tigawoods]

If there is a 5000-mile exempt rule like there is in PA (where my car is reg'd)

just get a digital dash like I have and make the ODO whatever you want it to be and be exempt for lyfe

[NgoFcukinWay]

or move to Texas and pay someone $80 to pass it unless it's at least 25 years old. Then it's just $12.

This post has been edited by NgoFcukinWay: Nov 27, 2020 - 1:53 AM

[cheela]

or move to Wisconsin and not have to worry about any of that emissions crap.

[Bitter]

Or move back to Indiana and come out to some meets more often.

[richee3]

IT WORKS!



I haven’t passed emissions yet. Still have to drive it around and get at least two of the four readiness monitors complete, then I can push it through emissions. But in the meantime, I have an OBDII compliant BEAMS.

[Bitter]

I used to have that same scan tool...until I forgot it on the roof of my Celica once.

[navseal345]

Still find it interesting a 1zz ECU will run a Beams. Would be cool to find out the tuning differences & all that other engineering BS.

[Bitter]

Still find it interesting a 1zz ECU will run a Beams. Would be cool to find out the tuning differences & all that other engineering BS.

I'm not that surprised, they're close in displacement, use almost the same sensors (biggest difference would be MAF scaling I suppose since different type of MAF but clearly similar output), have similarly sized injectors, use probably the same TPS sweep, same type of knock sensor, same coolant sensor range, etc. Toyota does not change a lot and it shows. Also the VVT system operates exactly the same. All in all I'd be more surprised if it didn't work!

Now, what remains to be seen is if he can swap in a 1ZZ Celica MAF and that gets it closer to running 100% or if theres some other differences and will it run a 1ZZ standalone like a Hydra EMS with full tuning to get the most out of the Beams? I know a highly tuned and lightly built 1ZZ can hit +160whp on the dyno with a couple people going full out due to race class hitting 180+. I imagine a Beams with a good tune should have no problem doing between 200 and 220WHP and even more than that with some aggressive cams and the right VVT tuning. Just not in Denver

[BonzaiCelica]

mhmmm.... i heard a 3sge greytop manifold and 50 state cat will pass emissions for obd1 in california. but i have a 99 so i still think this wont do me any good

[BonzaiCelica]

so any update on this? itd be nice to check engine status for fuel trim, misfire counts, maf metering. but i guess at that rate the benefits of a standalone ecu come into play....... is it possible for dual beams vvti altezza motor to get all the data info without much messing around?

[Bitter]

Well?

[navseal345]

Sold it.

[richee3]

No, the old Celica is still around. I had to replace the Optima battery with an Interstate battery and that’s about it. The emissions thing isn’t going to work out unless I make some changes like adding a downstream O2 sensor... I’ll just replace the cat and be done. But I have driven the car around on the 1ZZ ECU and I can confirm that it is 100% functional with a slight loss of power, which is the groundwork for finding out if we can run a 1ZZ standalone.

[Bitter]

Do both, cat and downstream sensor and then you can easily put the 1ZZ ECU in whenever you need to do emissions just about anywhere except maybe california.