Tein + GR-2 woes... |
Tein + GR-2 woes... |
Jan 18, 2008 - 7:59 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Aug 5, '06 From Maryland Currently Offline Reputation: 2 (100%) |
Ok, so I finally made the plunge and picked up some KYB GR-2s and Tein S-techs since my rears went out. The installation was pretty smooth until I lowered the car. (I should add in I got strut cartridges for the front that just replaced the shock, the rears were full strut assemblies.) The car made very odd rubber-on-rubber sounding grinds and pops. I put it on the lift and watched the springs, they torqued with the top half rigid and the bottom half turning. I figured it must be the upper bearings so I put a healthy amount of axle grease on them and reassembled the struts. Then popping is much less now, but still noticeable going into and coming out of left turns. I know my driver front axle is bad, so I will be replacing that next; but I think the sound is strut related. Any ideas?
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Jan 19, 2008 - 1:25 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Mar 3, '05 From Richmond, B.C. Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
The bottom need to be fully seated in the correct groove in the lower spring seat, and the rubber isolators also have to be correctly seated on the seat in between.
Also, did you ensure the upper spring seats were correctly aligned prior to tightening the gland nut? |
Jan 19, 2008 - 9:19 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Aug 5, '06 From Maryland Currently Offline Reputation: 2 (100%) |
Hi there, thanks for the reply.
I've taken apart the strut 3 or 4 times to check the grooves. I also drop it to pop it in just incase it's close but not in. The only odd thing with the groove I noticed is the top where the spring contacts the top plate. The plate is obviously angled to take the spring at a certain direction, but the groove looks like it is at the oposite side of the plate than it needs to be... if that makes any sense. It's a very rubber on rubber noise, I'd compare it with new tires turning on clean cement while the car is stationary. Is there anything other than those bearings that could possibly need lube? |
Jan 19, 2008 - 10:00 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Nov 17, '07 Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
did you put the washer in under the nut? its like a 1/4" thick washer... thats the noise I heard when I forgot to put mine in.... also if you did forget it, means you overtightened the nut... its a b***h to take it off, I had to melt the plastic off and force it off (without damaging shock) then you need to replace nut... stock ones work
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Jan 23, 2008 - 10:00 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Aug 8, '07 From United States Currently Offline Reputation: 4 (100%) |
You need to grease where the spring meets the top hat (groove alignment). That is a common popping sound that people get when they drop their celica. Just grease up that spot and you will be fine.
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Jan 27, 2008 - 12:55 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Aug 5, '06 From Maryland Currently Offline Reputation: 2 (100%) |
Thanks for the reply you two!
Celicam8: I don't recall a washer to swap over, I'd think a 1/4" washer would stand out to me. I'll def have to grab one and put it in next time I get it on a lift. Harold_Faswaker: I greased the bearings but didn't where the spring meets the top... so is it supposed to twist in there? I thought it was twisting because the bearing wasn't greased enough so it was binding. I'll have to grease it next time it gets on the lift. I'm back at college now, any immediate dangers in not messing with it for a couple weeks? |
Jan 27, 2008 - 1:26 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Nov 17, '07 Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
QUOTE(phokur @ Jan 27, 2008 - 12:55 AM) [snapback]634962[/snapback] Thanks for the reply you two! Celicam8: I don't recall a washer to swap over, I'd think a 1/4" washer would stand out to me. I'll def have to grab one and put it in next time I get it on a lift. it is on the inside of the hatch, under the plastic caps... I know for sure it exists... I had the same problem, it was making a loud metal on metal noise...and once I put those in the noise stopped... I thought when I saw it that it was just some junk and didn't know what it was for... it's under that center nut... thats why the nut isn't supposed to go all the way down, that washer is there to raise the point of contact on the nut to the body This post has been edited by Celicam8: Jan 27, 2008 - 1:29 AM |
Jan 27, 2008 - 12:48 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Aug 5, '06 From Maryland Currently Offline Reputation: 2 (100%) |
That's what I thought you were talking about, hmm looks like I'll be washer shopping. Think I could take off that center nut without taking the strut back out of the car? Will be a few weeks till I can get it home and put it on the lift.
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Jan 27, 2008 - 2:04 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Nov 17, '07 Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
QUOTE(phokur @ Jan 27, 2008 - 12:48 PM) [snapback]635057[/snapback] That's what I thought you were talking about, hmm looks like I'll be washer shopping. Think I could take off that center nut without taking the strut back out of the car? Will be a few weeks till I can get it home and put it on the lift. well, if you didnt tighten the nut all the way down then yes, if you did tighten it down all the way, no... and it will be a bitc* to remove it... I had to melt the plastc slip a little take a towel and wrap it around the strut so the strut insirt stops turning and had to unscrew it... was a bitc* of a time... took about 20 min each... then use the old nuts from th e stock suspension, as the ones you pulled off will have the melted plastic... good luck man, it was a pain to do it... |
Feb 17, 2008 - 3:52 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Aug 5, '06 From Maryland Currently Offline Reputation: 2 (100%) |
Finally got a chance to go home and try greasing the top hat and adding the washers. It did make a very noticeable difference, but I still hear the popping sometimes. If I hit bumps while turning especially. Any other clues?
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