5sgte rwd conversion Options

[Smaay]

the R154 must have been in the MKIII because the MKIV non turbo got the W58

With all that work you are doing, why on earth are you using a 5S-FE? wouldnt a V6 or 3S-GTE be more satisfying?

[mgnt232]

the R154 must have been in the MKIII because the MKIV non turbo got the W58

With all that work you are doing, why on earth are you using a 5S-FE? wouldnt a V6 or 3S-GTE be more satisfying?

From what I understand he's just using the 5s block (not a 5sfe), and the gte head. Which is the same build I'm looking to build, which can be built up much easier to handle more power than the 3s block.
Not to say you can't build up a 3sgte the same, its just makes more sense to do a 5sgte if you are going for such high HP goals, and he obviously doesn't care about building something custom, which is part of the issue most people run into and why they stick with a 3sgte

This post has been edited by mgnt232: May 5, 2014 - 4:32 PM

[toy8490]

the R154 must have been in the MKIII because the MKIV non turbo got the W58

With all that work you are doing, why on earth are you using a 5S-FE? wouldnt a V6 or 3S-GTE be more satisfying?

You must of not read anything i posted, I'm doing a stroker version of a 3sgte, so instead of a 2.0L engine, its going to be a 2.2L engine. You take a 2.2 camry block and use the 3sgte cylinder head.

And also I dont know how you came up with a w-58 tranny that i'm using. I wrote on the 1st page that i'm using a toyota pickup transmission out of a v-6 2wd, they come with a r-150 tranny, its just about the same trans as the supra, except 1st and 2nd gear ratio is different, and 5th is different, but overall just as strong as the supra tranny, because its in the same R family trans.

This post has been edited by toy8490: May 5, 2014 - 9:32 PM

[Smaay]

no i dont read everything, i dont need to read 3 word responses like looks good man.

[cardshark525]

Franken-build progressing nicely.

A rwd 6gc running a 5sgte with a Toyota pickup tranny and Honda suspension... fantastic.

Every part has a specific purpose and I guess sourcing items already made (albeit from a random collection of cars) beats having to pay for custom created parts from an aftermarket manufacturer specific to the build you're going for.

Just avoid the VW electrical system

This post has been edited by cardshark525: May 5, 2014 - 10:36 PM

[toy8490]

i'll be uploading more updates tomorrow of my progress. Its coming along.

[toy8490]

Well was almost done, had the complet dash inside the car doing transmission tunnel work, and caught the car on fire, damit. I have a new dash and wiring harness from another car. But heres some more pictures






Heres some bracing of the links

[Special_Edy]

Im far from being an expert, and Im having difficulty figuring out how to word this correctly, but I think the rack has to be the exact same width as the celica rack. Bump steer will occur if the tie-rod length is any different from oem. The problem is that the as the wheel spindle travels up and down through the suspension stroke, the distance from the hub to the centerline of the vehicle fluctuates as does the camber. The tierod length is designed so that it is proportional to the length of the control arm in relation to its proximity to the strut mount. If the tierod is to long or short, it will force the wheels toe-in or toe-out as the suspension travels.

Hopefully this crappy pictures make more sense. With struts the steering axis and "line 2" would intersect at the strut mount because we dont have the upper control arm.


This post has been edited by Special_Edy: May 12, 2014 - 2:21 PM

[toy8490]

Here some more progress pictures, motor mounts / transmission mounts are done, steering some what done, I did end up odering the mustang bump steer kit that will correct the had tie rod angles.


















[quote name='Special_Edy' date='May 12, 2014 - 3:09 PM' post='1046370']
Im far from being an expert, and Im having difficulty figuring out how to word this correctly, but I think the rack has to be the exact same width as the celica rack. Bump steer will occur if the tie-rod length is any different from oem. The problem is that the as the wheel spindle travels up and down through the suspension stroke, the distance from the hub to the centerline of the vehicle fluctuates as does the camber. The tierod length is designed so that it is proportional to the length of the control arm in relation to its proximity to the strut mount. If the tierod is to long or short, it will force the wheels toe-in or toe-out as the suspension travels.




The mustang rack and tie rods are the correct lenght. Also the mustang tie rods have a ton of adjustment room.

[njccmd2002]

wow this is significant progress.

[Malek]

Seriously! ^^

This is some good stuff!

[ClevelandGaint]

I want this

[playr158]

its crazy.....its impractical.....its freaking awesome

[jeffrosie]

Awesome build M8.
Was just thinking, why not use the rear diff and suspension from a ST205? The ST205 rear diff is very strong.

[Special_Edy]

Naw he should use the straight axle. Maybe get a solid front axle and have the worlds only 4x4 celica Big mud tires and all

[lagos]

Impressive project!

[toy8490]

I hope you guys are ready for this, I'm getting pictures ready. Yes more updates.

[toy8490]

Picture time, I love it.











I'm going to get the intake built shorter. Thats the next little thing that needs to be done, Because the hood doesnt close

[Box]

It's so weird seeing the engine longitudinally.

[BonzaiCelica]

wow at that point why not fit the intake manifold 3sge from RS200 beams