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Enthusiast ![]() ![]() Joined Jun 9, '16 From Minnesota Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) ![]() |
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Aug 4, '06 From Chicagoland Currently Offline Reputation: 9 (100%) ![]() |
Did you bolt into the A-Pillar structure behind the trim, or is it just bolted into the trim itself? Imagine if he didn't, call it the "SURPRISE MOTHERF*****". BAHAHHAAHA Right!?! -------------------- ~bloodMoney
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Enthusiast ![]() Joined May 2, '18 From Phoenix, AZ Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) ![]() |
I gave up for now chasing my high idle issue. Last night I made up a restrictor gasket to go between the IAC and throttle body. It allows air into the IAC and out to the A/C idle up tube but totally blocks air from going into the intake manifold just behind the throttle plate. This is giving it a pretty steady idle between 700 and 800rpms, mostly between 700 and 750. This is only after the engine has warmed up though, it takes slight throttle pedal input until then to keep it from stalling.
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Enthusiast ![]() Joined May 2, '18 From Phoenix, AZ Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) ![]() |
UPDATE: I ended up cutting a small hole on the other side of the gasket to bypass a small amount of air. Now idling between 900-1000, starts up fine now and runs without any stumbling with the A/C on. I did order another ECU, haven't installed it yet though.
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Aug 4, '06 From Chicagoland Currently Offline Reputation: 9 (100%) ![]() |
Clever solution. I like it.
-------------------- ~bloodMoney
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Enthusiast ![]() Joined May 2, '18 From Phoenix, AZ Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) ![]() |
So, it's been a VERY long time since I've posted an update on this car. Last year I changed jobs that took a lot of my interest away from doing too much on the car for a while, then trying to upload pictures got too frustrating. For those that have followed me on Instagram know that the flood gates opened up on the modifications since mid March, working from home now. The back end is looking WOW!! The car handles great and the addition of Nissan Skyline R32 seats help hold me in place on and off road.
-Jon |
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Enthusiast ![]() Joined May 2, '18 From Phoenix, AZ Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) ![]() |
A friend and I attempted an epic journey this past week. We got from Phoenix AZ to Capitan NM without issue, via all back highways, no interstates. We then clawed over the mountain to the north of town and down the other side. About 5 miles from the end of the trail/dirt/rock road, the engine started giving up the ghost. We patched, refilled with water and gave the engine time to cool down several times, giving us the forward momentum to make it another 15-20 miles, maybe more. Finally 12 miles from Roswell, I gave up and we got a hold of a tow truck service. 2 days at the local Toyota dealership finally got us the answer, blown head gasket, very worn out engine that won't even start now.
SO - I'm thinking about pushing the changes up a notch. I've been gather the pieces to convert it to AWD anyways. Now I need to figure out which engine swap might be right for me... How cool would a BEAMS on an AWD box be? Or, what about a V6, 1MZ-FE on an AWD box? Anyone know of a free photo host, would love to share pictures once again?? |
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![]() Moderator ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Jun 29, '08 From Denver Currently Offline Reputation: 59 (100%) ![]() |
Honestly I’d suggest something with more torque than a BEAMS for an AWD conversion. The BEAMS is fun in FWD guise but at only 154 lb ft of torque, you’d have more fun with any other swap. 2GR comes to mind as one that would be great for AWD but I don’t know if there’s room for the exhaust and trans in a 6gc bay. Norberto would have more insight into that.
I currently use Imgur for image hosting/sharing. It gets the job done. I’m sure there are better solutions out there but Imgur works and that’s all I really need. -------------------- "Employ your time in improving yourself by other men's writings, so that you shall gain easily what others labored hard for." -Socrates. Even Socrates told us to use the search button!
![]() 2006 Aston Martin V8 Vantage. 1998 Celica GT- BEAMS Swapped. 2022 4Runner TRD Off Road Prenium. 2021 GMC Sierra AT4. |
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Enthusiast ![]() ![]() Joined Jun 9, '16 From Minnesota Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) ![]() |
^ 2GR would be the way to go for V6, the 1MZ/3MZ wouldn't be bad either. But it's hard to beat the swap of the 3SGTE with power mods to cover for the AWD.
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Mar 15, '07 From Tennessee Currently Offline Reputation: 52 (100%) ![]() |
awd 2gr could be possible. i studied the possibility with a smaller transfer case on the e153, there are several out there. gave up on the ideal once the gt4 were to expensive. hate the idea to buy one and toss the engine out...
some info here https://www.newcelica.org/threads/celica-aw...-thread.394209/ but there are several threads.. you will have to fab your exhaust or use the ones from a awd 2gr... -------------------- Learned a lot in 10 years... I hardly log in anymore, last login Today Sept 6 2019, and I was forced just to clarify a post. LOL
If you PM me and I dont respond, dont fret or cry. Im alive, better post your questions in the thread below, maybe I log back in 2grfe Swapped... Why I chose the 2GR, before you ask read here... A great civilization is not conquered from without until it has destroyed itself from within. @llamaraxing in Instagram is the best way to find me. I hardly log here anymore. |
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Enthusiast ![]() Joined May 2, '18 From Phoenix, AZ Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) ![]() |
I've done the research and the math and already started collecting what I think I'll need. Here's my plan as of now; 3S-GE BEAMS (Red or Grey Top), E250F tranny out of a '99 Rav4, get rid of the vacuum actuator for center diff lock replacing it with something simpler and smaller, mod'd prop shaft to the rear, possibly grafting Rav4 gas tank into the body, full custom rear subframe already built, RX300 rear diff, axles and drive hubs/brakes. Hear me out on this combo. Pull up the gearing on that gearbox, it's built for low to moderate torque figures and high RPMs, which should match nicely to the 3S-GE engine. I need reliability first, power second. If I have to change engines, might as well get a power upgrade over the 5S-FE. I love the possibilities of the 3S-GTE, but I can't trust a turbo engine not to overheat in the worse times. I live in the desert where I'm already battling heat just by going outside. I already picked up the donor Rav4, 1999 with a bad engine for $300. This gives me the time to pick all the pieces I want or think I might need without having to search salvage yards and pay a lot of extra money.
This post has been edited by Roodwerks: Sep 29, 2020 - 10:08 AM |
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Aug 4, '06 From Chicagoland Currently Offline Reputation: 9 (100%) ![]() |
I would go with an MZ for a build like this. You want reliability, but you can't go to Autozone and pick up replacement parts for a BEAMS.
Plus, with what you are planning to do, it seems like your formula is backwards: you'll need more TQ than HP. BEAMS are rev happy, but not so torque-y, you may have issue with the extra drag of a 4WD drivetrain. In the end, it's your car, your $$, and a cool build either way. I can't wait to see which direction you go! -------------------- ~bloodMoney
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Enthusiast ![]() Joined May 2, '18 From Phoenix, AZ Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) ![]() |
I think I'm pretty set on sticking with the 3sge. It's basically a bolt in, so that's a bonus. It actually came bolted to the tranny I have acquired, in Japan. With the very low final drive, a high reving engine will do very well. As for not getting parts in the US, in stores, that should be fine. The basic maintenance items can be, hoses, filters, etc., the long term items are available, just not quickly. I don't put a ton of miles on my toys, so all major maintenance on the engine will be before its' installed; water pump, timing belt, clutch, etc..
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Enthusiast ![]() Joined May 2, '18 From Phoenix, AZ Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) ![]() |
It's been a few years, huh..? I did finish building up the ST204.5 Safari Celica. The BEAMS Red Top engine mated to the Rav4 '99 AWD/4WD gearbox. The rear end and suspension is a modified version of what I had built for the fwd setup, just with a differential mounted up to the tube work. The differential is out of an RX300, with a factory torsen style gear LSD. The rear hubs are out of an '05 Highlander. If anyone has questions, hit me up. I've driven the car around for 8 or 9K miles now, loving it. It's no turbo power house, but the BEAMS has no problem pushing the car around quickly.
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Enthusiast ![]() Joined May 2, '18 From Phoenix, AZ Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) ![]() |
Damn, Sept. '20 since I've been around, saying anything about this build. The AWD/4WD Redtop BEAMS setup turned out great for me. The amount of work was HUGE, but the reward has been huge too. The only real hick-up that came about was having custom front axle shafts made. I could have cut and widened them the cheap way, but that made no sense for me, if I wanted it as reliable as stock and vibration free as possible. The rear driveshaft section had to be custom made as well, but getting to the RX300 LSD is where it's at for the car. The rear subframe is what I had built for the FWD setup. If anyone wants to know specifics, just hit me up.
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Enthusiast ![]() Joined May 2, '18 From Phoenix, AZ Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) ![]() |
Built and been driving around for about 2 years now, only minor issues along the way.
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Lo-Fi Version | Time is now: August 31st, 2024 - 11:34 AM |