5sfe to (rev3) 3sgte Wiring Explained, Just wanted to create a How-to due to the amount of ?'s on this. Options

[bsamps4]

Due to the number of questions surrounding this portion of the wiring job when installing a 3sgte engine I decided to make a little how-to of my personal experience. Manny's thread is a great source for info as well, and like he says..."It's easy peesy!"

I've got my wiring ready for my motor install. I got started on the chassis side a little before hand. I realize that you can do this during the swap, but I wanted to save some time during my swap and have the wiring ready to simply plug in. I kept the chassis harness from the front clip that I had initially. Here's what I did...

I unmounted all of the wiring from EA1 3sgte chassis harness so that I could swap if with the 5sfe's EA1 chassis plug. I then untangled all of the wiring that went to the intercooler/fuel pump radiator box, which also included the harness that plugs into the intercooler pump itself. I then untangled the rest of the wiring that was left behind and cut it to length so that I could use it to extend the engine's wiring harness.


I started by mounting the relay box that houses the intercooler relay and fuel pump relay

This is a backed up photo.

And this photo is a picture with the relay lid off.

I set these up under the hood so that they would be easy to read while I converted the plug.

I then disassembled my relay box and unpinned my 5sfe EA1 chassis plug and swapped the pins in the same order that they were in the 5sfe plug into the 3sgte's EA1 plug that I had unpinned earlier. The wire that i'm holding in my left hand goes to the intercooler pump.

This picture is of the wiring that is coming from the relay box and intercooler harness that I salvaged from the 3sgte chassis plug. These are going to need to be inserted into the EA1 3sgte plug that I am swapping into the car.

These two pictures are of the re-pinned 3sgte EA1 plug after I swapped over the wiring from the 5s plug. The 3 wires that go on either side of the plug (6 total) will have to be removed and plugged in during the actual engine install due to the fact that the 5s engine plug in my 94' has these blanked off. If I had left these in I would have damaged the plug when connecting the male and female ends together. So this was really just a test fit/for pictures sake.



All of the 5sfe wiring goes into the 3s plug the same way it came out, and all of the colors on either side match with the exception of the wires that meet on pin 13. One side is green (engine side), and on the other side of the connector (chassis side) was blue and black.

The wires that come from the relax box/intercooler connector go in this order:(The pin numbers that are omitted are used by the already existant 5sfe pinouts that I swapped over)
Pin 1: solid blue
Pin 3: blue/orange
Pin 5: blue/black
Pin 7: green/red
Pin 8: grey/black
Pin 11: grey/blue
Pin 12:blue/white
Pin 17:grey/green

There are 3 wires that remain after swapping over all of the wires that have NO PIN at the end. They are pictured here.


We spliced these wires into identical colored wires that were in the 5sfe relay harness. To clarify we took a picture of each wire that we spliced into...(don't be stupid, check them with a multimeter first.)




After identifying the wiring that we were going to tap into, we spliced the 3 non pinned wires into the wires that were the same color. Here is a pic of one. Same idea with the other two


After that we unpinned the 3 wires on either side of the plug (6 total) so that the male and female end would plug together comfortably. Remember that I will be re-connecting these once the new motor is in the bay. We also removed the intercooler pump and fuel pump relays so that we wouldn't short them out (since the 6 wires that we just removed are just laying there). We then checked our work by starting the car, which started perfectly

Afterwards we modified the plug that went to the intercooler pump by adding resistors to confuse the ECU into thinking that there is resistance at the end of the line. (Don't want to get a code 54 since i'm running a front mount).

We then moved on to my engine harness for the 3sgte. We simply extended the diagnostic box, IAT sensor,and the wiring that goes to the igniter, the evap plug. Then we bridged the plug that connects to the coolant level sensor and taped it up.
Pic of the finished product...

Done!

NEXT.

Here I will detail the clutch start switch swap. Begin here with locating the plugs that are in question. In this case they are the ones that i'm holding in my hand.

You will then need to sacrifice a female pin. (We used one from some of the extra chassis plugs that I spared. The exterior plugs have a little rubber stopper on them to keep moisture out, so we had to cut the stopper off.)
Before:

After:

The black wire needs to be removed from the white harness. In this picture we have removed the black wire already. (It used to sit between the red and orange wires in the top left corner of the harness.)

You then insert your sacrificed pin into pin hole 17 on the grey plug. Clip the pin off the black plug and solder the black wire to the tail end of the sacrificed wire.
In this picture you can see the black wire spliced into the blue wire and heat shrink tubing applied at the solder joint.

And here you can see the finished product.


DONE!

This post has been edited by bsamps4: Feb 24, 2012 - 9:36 AM

[al94st]

Nice!

[Batman722]

still the orange/black wire right ?
and the clutch start wire.

This post has been edited by Batman722: Jan 24, 2012 - 11:31 PM

[Stambo]

3rd gen i assume correct? I tried to do a 2nd gen myself but i couldn't find the correct info. Anyways, great job! I vote sticky!

[Smaay]

great thread! ill be doing the same for a 1MZ swap

[chacha]

THANK YOU for making it happen and best thing of all...it has PICTURES!!! 1,000 times THANK YOU

[pgiorgio]

Great write up.....wondering if anyone has done a similar write up for 5s to beams red top wiring?

[rave2n]

Very nice, and this will be used personally soon. Thanks!

Sticky vote!

[bsamps4]

still the orange/black wire right ?
and the clutch start wire.

did you mean black with an orange stripe? We jumped that wire to power. If im missing something let me know. I forgot to take a pic of the clutch wire conversion. I will add that.

3rd gen i assume correct? I tried to do a 2nd gen myself but i couldn't find the correct info. Anyways, great job! I vote sticky!

Yes, this is for a 3rd gen.

[purplegt4]

.

This post has been edited by purplegt4: Jan 25, 2012 - 9:56 AM

[richee3]

Great write up.....wondering if anyone has done a similar write up for 5s to beams red top wiring?

Not a dedicated thread but the 5S to Redtop wiring is posted all over the place. Check page 18 of my progress thread or page 1 of ricochet1490's progress thread. There are several other posts all over the forum but I can't remember their exact location in njccmd2002's, Turnip's, and I think erahman's threads.

I vote sticky for this thread!

[Keiri]

Nice write up Ben!

I vote for sticky status as well.

[bsamps4]

Updated with clutch start switch info.

[bsamps4]

This method is now tried and true. Car started first time!

[bsamps4]

*Bump for "How To"!

[rave2n]

Almost time for me to use this, agreed on "how to" sticky

This post has been edited by rave2n: Mar 10, 2013 - 4:00 PM

[diegohiga]

Haha i should off seen this thread before my swap. Nice write up!
When is the water pump for the w2a is supposed to turn on?? Im not sure if its turning on How can i ccheck it?

[bsamps4]

It should be pretty loud, but you can also pop the cap on your W2A and it should look like a cyclone of water flying around inside. If it's sitting still then the pump may not be running.

[diegohiga]

It should be pretty loud, but you can also pop the cap on your W2A and it should look like a cyclone of water flying around inside. If it's sitting still then the pump may not be running.

Ok ill check that but isnt supposed to be always on?

[bsamps4]

That's my understanding.