6G Celicas Forums

Welcome Guest ( Log In | Register )

 
Reply to this topicStart new topic
> Clutch, How hard to change out?
post Mar 4, 2004 - 5:28 PM
+Quote Post
Cragspider



Enthusiast
***
Joined Aug 30, '02
From Franklin,Tn
Currently Offline

Reputation: 0 (0%)




Ok like it says, Im going to be changing out my clutch in the next week or so. So I would like to know how hard was it to change and how did you do it. I have the toyota repare manuals but I would like to hear from you all about it.
Bryan
post Mar 4, 2004 - 5:36 PM
+Quote Post
macavely



Enthusiast
*****
Joined Nov 4, '02
From Hecho en la Republica Dominicana/Living in NJ
Currently Offline

Reputation: 0 (0%)




a clutch isn't all that hard to change.... but it is one of those things were it's a lot better if you have a friend helping you out... makes the work go easier and quicker... it should be like a 2-3 hour job if you know what you are doing and take your time..


--------------------
post Mar 4, 2004 - 5:51 PM
+Quote Post
Kwanza26



Enthusiast
*****
Joined Dec 27, '03
From Nor Cal
Currently Offline

Reputation: 0 (0%)




It's not too hard... although depending n your experience and skill... it might take longer than 3 hours. I probably can't even do a FWD car in 2-3 hours... and I've done my clutch before. Basically... you'll need to remove/disconnect all lines to your tranny... there should be a few... ground wires, starter lines, speedo sensor... other little things. After that... have your engine held up in some way... a jack underneath, an engine lift...etc... you might want to drain the tranny fluid, then you can start removing motor mounts. Remove the center bolts in the motor mounts, and they should fall free. You'll need to remove the lower crossmember and mount, the tranny mount... and I believe that's it. You'll also have to pull out the axles. To do that, take the little cap off of the hub... and pull the pin out. Unbolt the hubs from the strut and it should fold down off of the axle (hub). Remove the axle... but don't pull on it from the ends. You don't want the fawkers to fall apart. Toyota axles will take some time to get out... if you're unlucky. Getting them back in will be slightly challenging also. After you have the axles out, start unbolting the tranny. I forget how many bolts exactly... but I think it's 6 bolts or so. After those are off... you might need to slighty pull, or genly pry the tranny off of the motor. Carefully get the tranny out through the bottom. After the tranny's out, remove the pressure plate from the flywheel, and the clutch disc should come off with it. Replace the clutch... align it with the alignment tool... and everything goes back together.

IMO, the hardest parts from hardest to least:
Removing lower crossmember and mount. That sucker is hard to get off and on...
Getting the tranny out... tight space, little room to position, not to mention the tranny weighs a bit.
Getting the axles off and on. Off isn't as hard as on... be careful and take your time...
Everything else... pretty straight foreward.


--------------------
"It's ok to be naked girl... I'm an artist!"

1995 AT200 Celica ST: stocked out daily driver...

1984 AE86 Corolla GT-SR5: silvertop 20V 4AGE project car jacked up with goodies...

1991 SW2x MR2 n/a: bare bones hardtop model soon to be...
post Mar 5, 2004 - 8:45 AM
+Quote Post
bufferdan

Enthusiast
****
Joined Nov 9, '03
From Dayton, OH
Currently Offline

Reputation: 2 (100%)




Did it on my 3000GT not to long ago. It was a all day job. Not so bad but very long process. Just make sure you resurface or get a new flywheel. Your clutch will slip and wear out if you dont. I made this mistake on my 3000 and it still slips 6k miles later. OH well.


--------------------
IPB Image
post Mar 10, 2004 - 12:35 PM
+Quote Post
97GTinKC

Enthusiast
***
Joined Aug 31, '02
From KC
Currently Offline

Reputation: 0 (0%)




I would only surface the flywheel if it is grooved, has heat cracks in the surface, or is discolored from heat. otherwise, hit it with the drill and one of those sanding disk things, just enough to clean the polish off some. Getting the flywheel done right can be a problem. I have seen shops really screw up flywheels, Like some where the disk surface is raised a few thousandths from the press plate mount area, they just grind it all smooth, and that in effect does the same as having a worn disk, it slips that much sooner, or they grind it crooked and you get vibrations or clutch chatter you cant get rid of. Take it to a GOOD machine shop if you do.
Also should install new pilot bearing in the end of the crank while you are in there. and check for signs of rear main seal leakage on the back side of the flywheel, (as long as you are in there and this close)
post Mar 13, 2004 - 12:39 PM
+Quote Post
NYCelica

Enthusiast
***
Joined Jul 13, '03
From NY
Currently Offline

Reputation: 0 (0%)




What do you Guys think how much is the Labor at the Shop?


--------------------
Sold my Celica....
post Mar 13, 2004 - 12:43 PM
+Quote Post
LatinKraze



Enthusiast
****
Joined Oct 22, '03
Currently Offline

Reputation: 0 (0%)




QUOTE (NYCelica @ Mar 13, 2004 - 9:39 AM)
What do you Guys think how much is the Labor at the Shop?

I've seen most quotes between $600-$800.
post Mar 13, 2004 - 12:51 PM
+Quote Post
NYCelica

Enthusiast
***
Joined Jul 13, '03
From NY
Currently Offline

Reputation: 0 (0%)




Damn........ frown.gif


--------------------
Sold my Celica....

Reply to this topicStart new topic
3 User(s) are reading this topic (3 Guests and 0 Anonymous Users)
0 Members:

 



Lo-Fi Version Time is now: February 24th, 2025 - 4:34 PM