E/G Won't Crank....Need Opinions, PLEASE HELP Options

[Jhensley]

OK so I just put in a rebuilt motor for my 7A-FE and I've not been able to start it.

When I first tried, it started right up but ran like crap (maybe ignition timing?) so I shut it off after 5-10seconds. I adjusted ignition timing again, by rotating the distributor, and it didn't sound much better but this time it died on me.

After adjusting it a third time it would crank but would not start. I checked and there is fuel on the plugs, but I couldn't get the plugs to spark. So I replaced the plugs and wires and came back. It still cranked but would not start. I don't have the alternator hooked up yet and this is a fresh battery but after a few tries the starter would not turn anymore, it engages but is too weak (with new battery). If I jump the battery with my other car the starter will once again turn, but not start.

I also tried rotating the engine with a breaker bar on the crank and it is noticeable harder to turn than when I put the E/G in the car.

Finally, I pulled the oil filter off and there was little if any oil at all in it. I'm not sure if this is normal considering the car has not ran for more than a few seconds but I thought it would fill up before anything else.

So...is this motor on the verge of siezing or should I take it to a shop to figure out why it will not start?

This post has been edited by Jhensley: May 6, 2007 - 1:47 PM

[alltracman78]

First off, it DOES crank.
Cranking is when the starter turns the engine over.
It won't start [or catch] is your problem.

If the starter will easily turn it over, it's not on the verge of seizing.

When you adjust the dist, do it with the engine running.
Just don't touch any other part of the car other than the dist while your doing it.

The oil in the filter will depend on if it has an anti drainback valve or not.

Does it have a new cap/rotor too?

Did you check valve timing?

You can always borrow a compression tester from autocrap to make sure it has good compression.

[Jhensley]

Timing: I did the timing when it was rebuilt, by lining up the timing mark on the cam with the notch on the flywheel pulley (0 Deg BTDC). The cam gear had a dot that needed to be at the top if I remember correctly.

Starter: The starter was not a problem before so I don't think that is the problem. To detail this a little more when I engage the starter it kicks and turns the E/G ever so slightly and then quits, which drains nearly all the power out of the car (lights almost go out in the dash). This makes me think there is too much resistance to crank. This problem goes away if I jump the car, but still not starting.

Ignition Timing: I did a rough ignition timing by lining up the distributor with the number one plug when the crank was at 10 degrees BTDC (as recommended). Can't get it to run and adjust. No on the new cap and rotor but I checked with a multimeter and they are in spec on the resistances.

Compression: Brand new pistons and rings (I mean zero miles), so compression isn't the starting issue.

Oil in Filter: I don't know if it has a check valve to prevent back flow but I do know that it is usually full of oil when I do oil changes. This makes me worry that there was no oil pressure since it was empty after I cranked it.

Any ideas to check for oil pressure, besides the dummy light?

[bindertch]

Oil pressure can be checked by installing a test gauge to the fitting where the sending unit is(left side of engine near the oil filter). The distributor should be installed with #1 cylinder at TDC and the marks on the inside of the distributor aligned. Are you getting a CEL and have you pulled the code? Also if your battery is at less that 9.6VDC when you are cranking the engine then it will not start. I would recommend checking the timing and letting the cylinders dry out by taking the plugs out. If the plugs get too much gas on them while cranking then they will just short across and get no spark.