Adding Lines, Chassis to Door Options

[mr_dude]

So I'm doing a good quantity of interior LEDs and finally getting around to putting my power lock actuators in.

1. How have you all run your wiring ot the door? Just cut open the existing rubber tube and taped it back up?

2. I have to run 12 constant volts to the lock actuators. Where have you all put the actuators themselves, and gotten the 12v's?

[Coomer]

As far as running wires through the doors goes, I'll let you read the following. Leave it to Romas to figure out everything.

[shid]

Lol, those braces look cooooooool

[mr_dude]

Coomer you are helpful. Way more helpful than that microsoft word paper clip. Two more things...

My actuators look exactly the same as yours, they came with some little black boxes and why I do not remember the name I do not know. Those need 12v constant?

And anyone know where to get some replacement gooey stuff that seals the plastic to the door? That stuff rocks.

[Coomer]

Are the little black boxes relays? Do they have four or five little prongs sticking out the bottom of them? I know I had to use two SPDT automotive relays to integrate my actuators in with the alarm. I wired them up like the following diagram shows.



And for sealing the doors again, you can use Silicon to hold that plastic on there.

[mr_dude]

Relays, bingo. I only need one per door, I believe, because I have one lock/unlock button. Nice diagram, so many resources on this "internet."

Now for the actuators, one wire is lock and the other is unlock? Or is it hot/negative hot and ground?

Silicon eh? Does it come off as easy or create a semi-permanent seal?

Continuing thanks, I'll buy you a pint next time I find myself in Wa.

[Coomer]

Yep, on the actuators, one wire is the unlock wire and the other is the lock wire. In the diagram above, the purple wire coming from the relay would get split and then would go to the lock wire for each actuator. The blue wire would get split as well, and would go to the unlock wire for each actuator. If you'd like some more in-depth knowledge on how exactly the relays work, I suggest reading up on some of the information on The12Volt.com, or just post and ask. There's a lot of helpful info there.

[mr_dude]

Hey, what'd you use for 12v constant? I assume it draws current so I don't want to use the wrong line.

[Coomer]

[mr_dude]

What current rating does the fuse have? I just want to make sure I can run it off something with a 10 or 15A fuse. My relay box says 30/40A I hope that max output...

[Coomer]

[mr_dude]

That's not soon enough, I want confirmation now
Just kidding. You're the most helpful person since Hamburger Helper, and that's just cuz he had "helper" in his name.

I tried it off my dome light (10A) and it worked but the fuse popped.
So I'm guessing 30 is necessary, though if it works with yours on a 15A fuse that'd be nice. Now the fuse box has "Power" and "Door" fuses, 30A each. I'm wondering if these are for power windows and power doors. That'd be real nice. Regardless, I don't know what wires they correspond to so I'm going to have to take apart the dash.

If anyone knows what the aforementioned fuses correspond to or what color the stock power door fuse wires are, I'd be saved much trouble.

[mr_dude]

Follow up:
After exhaustively trying each line for voltage and continuity with the 30A fuse socket, I partially removed the fuse box to find that the plug for that fuse box output had no line for the 30A slot.
I slotted some wire in there and got 12V with the 30A fuse, but the light was fading and I had to paddle out so I left it for tomorrow. Nevertheless, I'm optimistic this will power the actuators and not break the fuse.

But just be be sure, I don't need to put a resisitive load on the relays, right?