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> Installing bodykits
post Jul 21, 2004 - 9:33 AM
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deX



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Has anyone done it themselves? If so how easy was it and how did you do it. A guy I've seen here uses these tough glue and rivets the kit onto the car and then covers the rivet holes, sands it, and then paints it. Is this the route to go for anyone with autobody experience or anything close to that?
post Jul 21, 2004 - 4:46 PM
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flipside97LTD



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I just put on the veilside kit about three weeks ago. Here's a basic run-down of what's involved: Put the car in a garage and take off the wheels and put it up in jack-stands. It'll be there for a while! Now take off the front and rear bumper. You now need to fit the kit to the car. As with any fiberglass kit, you're going to have to do a lot of sanding and filing and shaping to make the kit fit the car. Once you've got the peices shaped and fitted it's time to attach them permantly.

The first step is screwing the kit to the car. I don't recommend using rivots. You'll see why later on. Use whatever screw will work, I used sheet metal screws. Predrill all of the holes! Fiberglass is very delicate. Now screw the sideskirts and rear bumper to the car. We'll get to the front later on. Again, this is a dry-fit.

Now that you know everything will fit, screwed and all, it's time to glue the kit to the car. Unscrew the kit and lay it aside. I recommend using a strong filler/epoxy to glue on the kit. I used a heat activated, 2 part epoxy called Fusion. If you can find it, use it! It's the best. The first step is to use a surface grinder and grind to bare metal everywhere the kit will be glued to the car. Also, use the grinder to rough up the fiberglass areas of the kit that will be glued to the car. Now, mix your epoxy and using a spreader, lay it on the bare metal areas.

Next, screw the kit onto the car. Use the spreader and a rag soaked in laquer thinner to wipe of any glue that oozes out. Make sure to wipe any glue that gets on the screw heads off! Otherwise, it'll be set in stone and be a permanent part of the car! After the epoxy has cured. Unscrew the screws, except those on the insides of the fenders. These should stay. Countersink the holes if you like to make them less noticable.

Now use a fiberglass based filler such as duraglass or mar-glass and fill all the screw holes. Sand the filler down and then put on a thin coat of regular body filler. Sand that down and the sides and rear are done.

Now screw on the front. If you're putting on the veilside kit, you don't need to glue any of the front to the car.

Chances are you'll need to modify the car a little to get the kit to fit. I had to cut out parts of the exhaust pipe and cut off the corners of the big aluminum reinforcement inside the front bumper.

If you have any more questions just ask dude!

Hope this helps,
Ryan



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post Jul 21, 2004 - 4:48 PM
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nicksceli

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im in the middle of molding on my skirts and invader rear. so far for the skirts i used 2 part epoxy and 2 screws to keep the top part of the skirt and havent had time to glass it yet. and for the rear i just used screws and fiberglass. its taking forever cause i dont have much time to spend on it. i also cant decide if i want to get fender flare for the back and mold them on too i think the gas door might interfere so i dont want to wind up wasting money
post Jul 21, 2004 - 8:16 PM
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deX



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Thanks guys! Seems like it takes time but it also seems pretty simple. Good tips, i will keep these in mind when putting on bodykit.
post Jul 22, 2004 - 10:40 PM
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97Celica



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Flipside...Why in the ****in hell would you jack the car up and take off the wheels? I installed my whole kit,fenders,and rear spoiler..and the car never left the ground.


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post Jul 22, 2004 - 10:45 PM
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flipside97LTD



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So i wouldn't have to use some tiny hand-screwdriver to put in screws. I used a drill and saved time. And the bodyman with 25 years experience that told me how to do it told me to. Why? Is taking off the wheels such horrible advice, or is it just too hard for you to do? Chill out bro.

Ryan

This post has been edited by flipside97LTD: Jul 22, 2004 - 10:53 PM


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post Jul 23, 2004 - 1:21 AM
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neoklis



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have to agree on this one with flip. jacking up the car leaves more space to work with in the tyre area and underneat the car. The time you need to jack up the car and remove the tyres is 100 times less than the time spent trying to use a screwdriver to bold on the kit in the tyre area. (personal experience)
post Jul 23, 2004 - 6:20 AM
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97Celica



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QUOTE (flipside97LTD @ Jul 22, 2004 - 10:45 PM)
So i wouldn't have to use some tiny hand-screwdriver to put in screws. I used a drill and saved time. And the bodyman with 25 years experience that told me how to do it told me to. Why? Is taking off the wheels such horrible advice, or is it just too hard for you to do? Chill out bro.

Ryan

Ryan,don't be a punk ass,...It's not too hard for me to do,but, I think it's 100% unnecessary.

-STEVE


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post Jul 23, 2004 - 9:18 AM
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turboinduction



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boy steve, you like to counter everyone. My car is 3 inches off the ground. Your telling me that I can install sideskirts this low. Jacking up time would be extremely helpful and only take ... 5 minutes. At my bodyshop for my dealership, I've never seen anyones car being worked on the ground, unless it was roof damage. You've sworn twice in 2 posts, insulted the topic creater, and made yourself look like your 15. Sometimes its best to keep your mouth shut.

Its better to be thought dumb, then to open your mouth and remove all doubt

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