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> SWAY BARS, Suspension techniques
post Oct 30, 2010 - 2:37 PM
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96stgreendemon



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oh wow, thats crazy, but you could replace the control arm, then again if you weld it, as long as it is a good clean weld it is stronger than the meta;


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post Oct 30, 2010 - 7:46 PM
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BonzaiCelica



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I edited my original post. the control arm only has about 40,000 miles on it. I had it replaced a while back ago, don't remember the exact mileage. Well they welded it for me for $40. It seems to be a pretty good weld. I guess, but I don't anything about welding so hopefully it holds up when I go to the canyons next sat. I'll try and get some pics up later of the weld if I feel like doing it.

How often should the front sway bar polyurethane bushings be greased. I did them about 15,000 miles ago. They should be fine right?? The rear seems to dry up a lot faster since their is more play in them.

here it is welded!! :



This post has been edited by BonzaiCelica: Feb 25, 2013 - 4:31 AM


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post Nov 1, 2010 - 6:29 AM
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SleekCelica

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Why not try taking out that piece entirely, and then welding a thicker piece of metal in? That would seem to me to be the most viable and permanent fix. Because maybe where you welded is stronger, but the rest of the metal is just as brittle, and will break just as easily.


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post Nov 1, 2010 - 8:39 AM
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Euphoria

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I highly doubt its bent, the bar just twists. But yeah the front sway bar bushings are a nightmare, in a way I'm glad I just have the stock bar at the front tongue.gif.

15k miles would be fine, I haven't done my rear one for more than that, all I've heard is they creak and make noise when they aren't lubed up, the weld probably just snapped as it was old.



This post has been edited by Euphoria: Nov 1, 2010 - 8:44 AM
post Nov 1, 2010 - 11:49 AM
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Culpable04



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Bonzai

same thing happened to me, driver side tab broke same way yours did, a friend welded it for me and it's been good for the last year, so you should be fine. mine broke when I hit a curb sideways with the front tire.


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post Nov 1, 2010 - 7:39 PM
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BonzaiCelica



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cool cool thanks for the replies smile.gif Ya i told the guy that to weld the whole link to the arm instead of putting it back to the way I have it no, But he said no way. It was some Asian speaking dude, charged me $40 for it


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post Jan 29, 2011 - 6:29 PM
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BonzaiCelica



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took forever to take off the sway bars, but I finally took it out with the help of my dads craftsman tools here are the pics of the tools. I also cut a 6mm Allen Wrench so that it would fit into the socket and it does fit perfectly. The tools have a magnet on the inside so it wont fall out. biggrin.gif this will make life much easier





This post has been edited by BonzaiCelica: Feb 25, 2013 - 4:32 AM


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post Jan 29, 2011 - 6:48 PM
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Spider77



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QUOTE (BonzaiCelica @ Jan 29, 2011 - 6:29 PM) *
took forever to take off the sway bars, but I finally took it out with the help of my dads craftsman tools here are the pics of the tools. I also cut a 6mm Allen Wrench so that it would fit into the socket and it does fit perfectly. The tools have a magnet on the inside so it wont fall out. biggrin.gif this will make life much easier


props for creativity!
post Jan 30, 2011 - 12:07 AM
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96stgreendemon



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i hate you.... i used about 10 rachet extensions and my air rachet and used it from above the engine lol, its a real pain but wow worth it


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2001 Solar yellow Lexus IS300

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post May 15, 2013 - 9:23 PM
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mi645

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Recently bought sway bars (st) front 1 installed it came graphite grey metallic and it rubs driver side frame area under very hard breaking... Seems to me like I've received an old version of the front

Edit: if this helps it came with red poly bushings with Allen key bolts or he bolts for new hardware for the front set it rubs on the drier side area right before the bushing is bolted down to the frame can anyone show me pics of the driver side area where the bushing is.

This post has been edited by mi645: May 15, 2013 - 9:29 PM
post Jan 14, 2014 - 10:40 PM
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drumbum



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Just as the guy mentioned above…

I just received the graphite ST Sway Bars with yellow lettering are those the old ones ???
If so I will return them and order a new set….

I ordered them from Amazon and they were new….

It also says for 90-97 celica on the box


Thanks...

This post has been edited by drumbum: Jan 14, 2014 - 10:54 PM


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post Jan 15, 2014 - 7:17 AM
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Tigawoods



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i believe those are the Ver.1 and the Ver.2 green ones resolved the rubbing issue. The rears are still gray, there was no version update with those


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post Jan 15, 2014 - 10:14 AM
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njccmd2002



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no i have the gray ones, with no issue, it seems that they dont make the green ones anymore, all are painted gray. I called back st swaybars, and the revised ones are gray too.. but then again, thye could have lied


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post Jan 15, 2014 - 4:53 PM
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drumbum



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I returned them just so I wouldn't have a headache.... The box looked old and said for 90-97 Celica... And it was the last they had in stock... I'm just waiting on them to get new stock in... So I should be good for sure...


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post Jan 16, 2014 - 1:30 PM
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Lil-Joe101



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QUOTE (BonzaiCelica @ Jan 29, 2011 - 5:29 PM) *
took forever to take off the sway bars, but I finally took it out with the help of my dads craftsman tools here are the pics of the tools. I also cut a 6mm Allen Wrench so that it would fit into the socket and it does fit perfectly. The tools have a magnet on the inside so it wont fall out. biggrin.gif this will make life much easier






I have the metallic grey style as well with black bushings. Also, my factory front sway bar unbolted fairly easy. Went from under the car and behind the bar itself. Had it all removed in a matter of 15-20 mins with no issue. Installing the new one was a bit tricky. Had to kind of fanagle it in there, but once I got it in, bolting it down was just as easy as unbolting it. I should know soon if it rubs or not once I get it running next month. Still need to install my rear sway bar as well.


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post Mar 31, 2014 - 8:30 PM
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BonzaiCelica



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this happened yesterday although i didnt think much of it. Most the business driveways are usually steep incline so I have to come in sideways and every time I do my right rear tire lifts off the floor. finally all the tension especially with the thick endlinks, ripped the tab on the shock. I heard scraping noise today and thought my exhaust scrapped but soon found out the tab was scrapping on side part of rim lip im thankful it didn't tear the inside of tire! this shocks have been on car for 40,000 miles roughly...



This post has been edited by BonzaiCelica: Mar 31, 2014 - 8:33 PM


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http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showto...p;#entry1107514
post Mar 31, 2014 - 9:31 PM
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Batman722



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Just so I'm clear...

You're stiff sway bars first broke the link tab on the a-arm (front), then they ripped the link tab off the rear strut ?

That is nuts.
Obviously there's not enough flex or play in the system and things broke at the weakest point. I've never upgraded my sway bars, only the links and bushings. I'd rather have the put the stress on the bar and bushings than snap those tabs off...


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post Apr 1, 2014 - 12:33 AM
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BonzaiCelica



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the fronts happened a long time ago on my first celica. but i only had the sway bar on their not the upgraded end links on my first celica.


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Group buy to replicate Narrow E series transaxle parts

http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showto...p;#entry1107514
post Apr 1, 2014 - 10:35 PM
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Rusty



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Wow that's unlucky, are they(ST) known for issues? I know they brought out a second verion for 1 bar, and as you've said had tabs broke off.

What spring rates are you running? (kg/mm)


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post Apr 2, 2014 - 11:52 AM
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BonzaiCelica



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Tanabe DF210 Dress Up Springs, Front 3.1 kg/mm and Rear 2.8 kg/mm spring rates (Stock : Front 2.9kg/mm and Rear 2.2 kg/mm)

I honestly wish I had stiffer springs up front like a 3.5,kg found on the gf210 tanabe springs
But I have version two bars its hard to say of this is common cause. Most members don't have a set up similar. Most are running coilovers which has less suspension travel

This post has been edited by BonzaiCelica: Apr 2, 2014 - 12:29 PM


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Group buy to replicate Narrow E series transaxle parts

http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showto...p;#entry1107514

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