Amp Wiring/fuse question Options

[djrob90]

Right, I’ve got 4 amps, 4 10” subs and 2 powercaps. The intention is to run the amps off of a FUSED distribution block (1 into 4) and another distribution block for the caps (1 into 2) My old setup of 2 amps required a 30amp fuse and 40amp fuse on the block and there was a 70amp fuse on the main 4 gauge cable really close to the battery. My question is that now, aside from these 2 amps, I’ve got a further 2 amps that require a 40amp fuse and a 60amp fuse, this takes the total amps upto 170 and will obviously blow the 70amp fuse in the main cable. I’ve never seen any AGU fuses rated this high and I was wondering, am I being overkill with the fuse in the battery splice (as everything else is individually fused) or should I not be pulling this sort of amperage from one piece of 4 gauge and should I run another piece instead?

[AudioFreak]

4ga is good for up to about 150 amps. so running another piece of 4ga is an option. or you could run 2ga and split it to all four amps. agu fuses do not come that large you will need to use an anl fuse or get a circuit breaker. remember the breaker by the battery is there to protect the wire. if you get into a wreck and the wire gets cut and it isn't fused you will start a fire. it is not optional.

also if you are using quality amplifiers that are actually pulling 170 amps you are gonna put a hurting on your alternator. stock is only 70 amps output. you may want to upgrade.

[djrob90]

Thats cool, well my setup is as follows:

1 x amp rated 2 x 75w RMS
1 x amp rated 2 x 100w RMS
2 x monoblock amps rated 1 x 400w RMS @ 2 Ohm each (2 subs off of each amp)

Its actually the smallest amp thats got 1 of the 40 amp fuses even though its not very powerful??

Do you really think I need to upgrade to 2 gauge based on this?? And also what does upgrading the alt involve, is it costly?

Thanks for your help!!

[Scarrell]

why do you need 4 gauge or 2 gauge? you dont need that big of wire....up to 14 gauge is fine for all your audio wiring needs.... Speaker wire isn't as vital as power and ground, because you're dealing with high voltage, low current AC voltage for speakers, much like wall outlets in a house, as opposed to high current DC voltage for power and ground.
Generally, this is my rule of thumb:
for component speakers (midbass, midrange, or tweeters) 18-16AWG is fine.
For subwoofers, 14-12AWG is plenty.
Anything you choose to use of a larger gauge will really only be for looks, as there will be no electrical advantage to larger wire.

This post has been edited by Scarrell: Dec 31, 2004 - 3:20 PM

[shid]

Someone's math is way off, as 150 amps is around 14,000 Ws

[AudioFreak]

Someone's math is way off, as 150 amps is around 14,000 Ws
[right][snapback]228650[/snapback][/right]

I think your math is off.

Wattage divided by voltage = amperage

14000w / 12v = 1166.66amps

And that formula is in a perfect world where amplifiers are 100% efficient.(which they are not, the heat they produce is wasted energy)

[1900WattCelica]

why do you need 4 gauge or 2 gauge? you dont need that big of wire....up to 14 gauge is fine for all your audio wiring needs.... Speaker wire isn't as vital as power and ground, because you're dealing with high voltage, low current AC voltage for speakers, much like wall outlets in a house, as opposed to high current DC voltage for power and ground.
Generally, this is my rule of thumb:
for component speakers (midbass, midrange, or tweeters) 18-16AWG is fine.
For subwoofers, 14-12AWG is plenty.
Anything you choose to use of a larger gauge will really only be for looks, as there will be no electrical advantage to larger wire.
[right][snapback]228642[/snapback][/right]

There talking about Power and Ground wire, not speaker wire

And Amps X Volts = Watts

Therefore 150 X 14.4 = 2160W.....in a perfect world

[madmods]

your all off the formula, I just can't find the symbol for pi on this keyboard.

This post has been edited by madmods: Jan 13, 2005 - 12:06 AM

[1900WattCelica]

Pi is evil....evil!!!!!!!!!!1