my 5SFTE turbo project, 300+whp PG 23!!!!!!! Options

[lagos]

I love that it say's ART!!!!!!!

Seriously, what are the odds of that!?!?!
The Art "mojo" has been keeping her going all these years! lol

[Consynx]

wow, i read from page 15 on.
that was ballsy, WOTn without a wideband and pre-tune after that.

I suppose it did open a door for the "phoenix" though...

the "art" is amazing as well.

This post has been edited by Consynx: Mar 30, 2009 - 11:35 PM

[presure2]

the block went out to get hot tanked last night, much easier than trying to clean everything out myself.
ill have it back today.

the block empty



after honing



i should have all the parts i need to put it back together by the weekend.

[CelicaZR]

That does look very clean!
Good luck putting it together Manny
Let me know if you need any help

[presure2]

i got the parts that i was waiting on from steff yesterday, so i went out and started preping things to go back together finally.
first thing i did was go out and buy a 20gallon parts washer, so that i can clean everything up before i reinstall it on the motor. harbor freight has a great deal on the parts washer going right now for 80$, i couldnt pass it up. ill snap a couple pics of that later.

i painted the block last night, with some low gloss black hi temp paint, it looks funny in these pics because it was drying as i took them..lol





just as an FYI, dont drop a piston as your taking them out of the block, or this can happen, (right steff?!? )



so to remove the rod from the piston you need remove the little c-clips, then warm it up to be able to get the wrist pin out.
removing the c-clip




hrmm...toaster oven works PERFECTLY!! (even if it pisses the wife off! although, i must say, jenn is very cool about this stuff, i think she seceretly likes it as much as i do..lol)





once the piston is nice and warm, a couple taps with a brass punch, (you use brass because brass is softer than the material the wrist pin is made of so that you dont damage it.) and the wrist pin slides right on out.








once its out, and the new piston is warmed up, you oil the new wrist pin a little (the pin and piston come as a set from toyota) and push it in with your thumb, then install the new c-clips that also come with the piston and pin.





yeay! fun and exciting! lol
now that that is out of the way, today imma go out and start working on getting all the piston rings fitted and get the crank and pistons installed.
more pics later!

[presure2]

i did a little research on rings, and found some interesting info.

from what i've read, the higher the cylinder temps, the more the rings expand, and if temps get high enough, the rings will actually expand to the point where the ends touch. when that happens, things break, like ringlands...hrmmm... lol

so, i looked around online, and found that most manufacturers reccomend larger ring gaps on turbo/nitrous motors, because of elevated cylinder temps.

next, i went ahead and looked at the BGB's for both the 3s, and the 5s, and found supporting info for what i had read.

the 5s ring end gaps are as follows:
#1 .270-.500mm
#2 .350-.600mm

the 3s ring end gaps are as follows
#1 .330-.550mm
#2 .450-.670mm

so, with that in mind, i will be checking and fileing the end gaps as needed to bring them at least to the minimum 3s spec.

[supershannon77]

looks real good manny...I like the block

looks like its coming along great!

[presure2]

bottom end is built.
pics a little later.

[crankyelbow]

looks real good manny...I like the block

looks like its coming along great!

This is valuable information!

[presure2]

a few pics of putting the bottom end together.

lubing the main bearings and thrust bearing surface





the parts washer i talked about a few posts ago:



hey, look what i found!



i didnt take pics of putting in the pistons, i had oil all over my hands...lol

installed


a quick vid of me spinning it over by hand.

[crankyelbow]

the 5s ring end gaps are as follows:
#1 .270-.500mm
#2 .350-.600mm

the 3s ring end gaps are as follows
#1 .330-.550mm
#2 .450-.670mm

so, with that in mind, i will be checking and fileing the end gaps as needed to bring them at least to the minimum 3s spec.

Lol...

I mean THIS is valuable information!!!

[lagos]

Nice dude, very nice.

[6strngs]

Are you planning to do any plans to the top end? like port and polish, etc. and will you be going for another stock 98+ head gasket?

[presure2]

Are you planning to do any plans to the top end? like port and polish, etc. and will you be going for another stock 98+ head gasket?

no porting.
if you dont really know what your doing, you can really do more harm than good when it comes to that stuff, so im not gonna attempt that on this head.
yes, ill be installing another stock MLS headgasket.

[playr158]

Nice work brother, I like your parts washer.

and Jen gets for putting up with it all

[Fate]

looks awesome manny!

[Defgeph]

This is as good as winning a free boat ride for 3!

[d0w0rkS0n]

i need to get my hands on one of those parts washers!! haha


looking good manny! keep up the good work

[Smaay]

i was going to suggest a larger ring gap. i gapped mine the same as the 3S also when i built my engine.

i cant see the pics you hosted on photobucket can you re-host them on the same server you usually do please?

[presure2]

cleaned some stuff up today in the parts washer, just waiting on 2 oil seal gaskets and ill start buttoning her back up.
i also removed my ABS and A/C.

some before and after pics.

before




after




before




after