Nitrous Oxide, How nitrous works Options

[Hanyo]

the 7th gen big brakes will work ONLY if you swap over everything form the 7th gen. (meaning the calipers rotors.. )

I dont want someone buying 7th gen rotors and finding out the hard way they don't fit.

[94ST2]

OK say I put the 4agze forged pistons into 7afe bored to 82 and then get forged rods for it how big a shot would I be able to use considering the higher compression rate?

[darksecret]

It also depends on if you replaced the bearings, with new bearings on a forged bottom end, I would feel safe with a 100 shot. You wouldn't believe how many people neglect to replace worn bearings, those things are technically wear items. Also running a higher than stock compression will mean you need to run a higher octane fuel while using nitrous.

[nik]

look at my sig thats what i think of Nitrous

[darksecret]

I like that one, but whats that last word, consequences or conscience?

[nik]

I like that one, but whats that last word, consequences or conscience?
[right][snapback]287993[/snapback][/right]

spelling error sorry good catch

[prpnum1]

thats rich...lol

[94ST2]

Alright sounds good about using those pistons should I use a 2mm head gasket to try to get lower compression or just leave the stock one?

[darksecret]

Since you raise the compression pro tuning is highly recommended, but if you want close to the stock compression, you shouldn't have to many worries on a forged bottom end doing the initial tuning yourself. Good thing to do with the pistons is send them in for a heat coating, it's usually less than $200 and it's the cheapest insurance you'll ever get for pistons. It's best to keep as close to the stock compression as possible, but the choice you have shouldn't have a problem running the higher compression with nitrous, but dealing with that extra power is your main task. I would recommend a staged NOS or NX kit, that way you can run a 25 shot for launches and the whole shot for higher speeds when it will be needed. I'll explain more about staged nitrous kits next.

[JoKeRkId613]

why does nitrous damage the insides of your engine. i know its like instantly giving the motor steroids, but why does it damage the cylinder walls and everything else. i mean, with a turbo and supercharger, you're pushing pounds in there too. i figure its all forced induction, so why is nitrous this way? sorry if this is a stupid question. thanks.

[darksecret]

Nitrous is technically not forced induction since it's carried into the combustion chamber by intake air. Nitrous destroys internals mostly due to misuse, if you go lean you can melt pistons and valves, also unlike boost if a kit is set to full shot you have all that extra power hitting at the same time. Here is a good example, take a 10 lbs weight and curl it seems easy, what if someone came up and took another 10 lbs weight and dropped it from one foot above the weight you're already curling, it hits you pretty hard but being that it's still light weight you don't give up, now take off the 10 lbs and have someone drop a 25 lbs weight then your arms begin to feel weak and it's hard to lift it and possibly you give out, engines are similar ,add a little nitrous and your engine takes a hit but keeps going, add a lot more and it will give out, you droping the weights upon impact of the 25 lbs would be like an engine throwing a rod, and if you drop one of the weights it's similar to an engine blowing a gasket. Nitrous doesn't case a large explosion in your combustion chamber, that pretty much exist already, nitrous just makes that explosion more intense and causes it to force the piston down faster. If you don't understand the whole weight thing just ask me.

EDIT: On the cylinder wall damage, that is usually due to the heat that is generated by nitrous warping the rod and causing the sleeve of the piston to scrape the wall. Usually a block is still good after you blow it with nitrous since nitrous reacts at 565 degrees and combustion chambers are already higher than that, the melting point of iron is around 2800 degrees, so usually the damage was from another source but inhibited by the nitrous. Also consider that nitrous is 36% oxygen and air is only 23.6% so you nedd less nitrous than air but consider that a 1.8 litre is can consume almost 5,000 litres of air per hour at 4,000 RPM. Building a good "power assisted" engine isn't very hard mechanically, but to get the most out of a system you need to learn some chemistry, mathmatics, and a little bit of physics. All of that is why I switched from carbs to EFI, since EFI is much easier to make efficient.

This post has been edited by darksecret: May 19, 2005 - 9:26 AM