H & R Spacer Install Report, tried today...more tools required |
H & R Spacer Install Report, tried today...more tools required |
Aug 17, 2005 - 12:57 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Jan 17, '04 From Illinois Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
I got my new wheels mounted and balanced today so I thought I would take a few hours to mount my H & R spacers. I bought the spacers that require the use of replacement studs. If you get this type of spacer, let me report that this is not a hassle free job. My recommendation is for people to buy the type of spacer that allows you to use the stock studs to mount the spacer and then the wheel mounts to new studs that come with the spacer and are placed "inbetween" each of the existing studs. The smallest spacer H & R makes with this "easier type" is 25 mm and that was bigger than I wanted to go with my application.
On to the install. This is a how-to for just the front brake because that is all the further I got today: (1) remove the old wheel. (2) remove the whole brake assembly. There are four bolts on the back of the brake assembly. Two are for removal of the mechanism that holds the pad and two remove the entire caliper and brake assembly. You need to remove the lower two that hold the entire brake assembly. (3) once the two bolts are removed, the brake assembly slides right off. The brake lines are still connected and I didn't want to remove those so I just placed the assembly on top of the wheel. (4) With the brake off, the rotors must be removed. There is a large nut (30 mm) in the center of the wheel that holds the rotor on. That large nut is secured first with a cotter pin that must be removed. (4) Once the cotter pin is removed, the 30mm nut must be removed. This was very difficult even with a large breaker bar - but I finally got it off. (5) Having removed the nut, I noticed that the internal part of the rotor is friction mounted and does not simply slide off. I then noticed that that there are three holes in the hub which are placed there for the use of a pully puller. Of course, I didn't have one of those. I assume that using the pully puller will allow the hub and rotor to come off in one piece. (6) Once the rotor is off, I assume that there will be some kind of hub on the back of the rotor that will come off so that I can get to the studs. Unfortunately, I did not get that far yet. Thats all for now. Will update more later. - Jay. This post has been edited by jgreening: Aug 17, 2005 - 12:58 AM -------------------- QUOTE(lagos @ Jul 10, 2006 - 1:55 PM) [snapback]454118[/snapback] i know your trying to do the right thing for your motor, but this is one of those times where you should just trust the guys who have had their swaps for a while and have done a ton of research into this. |
Aug 17, 2005 - 1:53 AM |
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Administrator Joined Aug 23, '02 From Seattle, WA Currently Offline Reputation: 14 (100%) |
You shouldn't need to remove the 30mm nut. My front brake rotors came off by simply using the two 12mm bolts that hold the brake line to the strut to push the rotor off. The 30mm nut holds the axle to the hub.
Once the rotor is off, there should be a notch to pop out the studs one by one. A hammer will probably pop them out. Then I think you put the new ones in and get them to seat in the hub. You can do this with a wheel and lugnuts I think, but I'm not sure if that's the best way to do it. -------------------- New Toyota project coming soon...
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Aug 17, 2005 - 2:02 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Jan 17, '04 From Illinois Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
When your rotors came off, did the hub come off too? Also, I am not sure which 12mm bolts you are referring to. I am going to look right now with a flashlight because this has me curious.
This post has been edited by jgreening: Aug 17, 2005 - 2:18 AM -------------------- QUOTE(lagos @ Jul 10, 2006 - 1:55 PM) [snapback]454118[/snapback] i know your trying to do the right thing for your motor, but this is one of those times where you should just trust the guys who have had their swaps for a while and have done a ton of research into this. |
Aug 17, 2005 - 2:55 AM |
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Administrator Joined Aug 23, '02 From Seattle, WA Currently Offline Reputation: 14 (100%) |
Nope, the hub didn't come off with the rotor. Sorry if I worded it funny, but you know those holes you can use a puller on for the rotor? You can use 12mm bolts such as the ones holding the brake lines to the strut in those holes. If you drive them in with a ratchet the rotors should pop free.
-------------------- New Toyota project coming soon...
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Aug 17, 2005 - 8:50 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Jan 17, '04 From Illinois Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
Coom, I am not sure what holes you are referring to. The holes I was referring to are in the hub itself and are too small for 12 mm bolts. I also do not think they are threaded.
-------------------- QUOTE(lagos @ Jul 10, 2006 - 1:55 PM) [snapback]454118[/snapback] i know your trying to do the right thing for your motor, but this is one of those times where you should just trust the guys who have had their swaps for a while and have done a ton of research into this. |
Aug 17, 2005 - 10:17 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Mar 2, '04 From Louisiana, USA Currently Offline Reputation: 2 (100%) |
You SHOULD be able to knock out the old lugs with the hub still attached to the spindle once all the brake hardware is off. There is a "sweet spot" where the lugs can be removed or installed without disassembling the knuckle; I would think a longer lug would have no clearance trouble.
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Aug 17, 2005 - 11:44 AM |
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Administrator Joined Aug 23, '02 From Seattle, WA Currently Offline Reputation: 14 (100%) |
QUOTE(jgreening @ Aug 17, 2005 - 6:50 AM) Coom, I am not sure what holes you are referring to. The holes I was referring to are in the hub itself and are too small for 12 mm bolts. I also do not think they are threaded. [right][snapback]325079[/snapback][/right] On my ST185 front rotors and on my factory ST rotors, I have small holes near the holes for the lugs. They're circled in the picture below, which is one of my ST185 rotors. I would think that ST204 rotors would have these holes. It didn't look like the 12mm bolts would fit into there, but they did and they go in smooth once they're started. I used one of the two holes that are close together and the other hole on the other side of the rotor. If the ST204 does have these holes, I'm not sure if they'd be the same size. I'd think so, but you never know, so just try a few bolts and see if you can find something that works.
Attached image(s)
-------------------- New Toyota project coming soon...
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Aug 17, 2005 - 11:55 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Jan 17, '04 From Illinois Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
Thanks guys. SCM, I figured out what you posted just a few hours ago and knocked the lugs out with the rotors attached. Longer lugs go in fine. Seating the new lugs is not a fun exercise though. I have one spacer and wheel on and it looks VERY good.
This post has been edited by jgreening: Aug 17, 2005 - 11:56 AM -------------------- QUOTE(lagos @ Jul 10, 2006 - 1:55 PM) [snapback]454118[/snapback] i know your trying to do the right thing for your motor, but this is one of those times where you should just trust the guys who have had their swaps for a while and have done a ton of research into this. |
Aug 17, 2005 - 6:49 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Aug 31, '02 From Philadelphia, PA Currently Offline Reputation: 8 (100%) |
post some pics when u finish !
even tho the spacers you bought are a pain to install, they are the safest way to go for spacers. so the extra work is worth it. -------------------- 15PSI - 30MPG - Megasquirt Tuned
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Aug 18, 2005 - 3:06 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Jan 17, '04 From Illinois Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
-------------------- QUOTE(lagos @ Jul 10, 2006 - 1:55 PM) [snapback]454118[/snapback] i know your trying to do the right thing for your motor, but this is one of those times where you should just trust the guys who have had their swaps for a while and have done a ton of research into this. |
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