Rear Disc Brake Conversion, Yes, Another Rear Dics Brake Question Options

[SilverCell94]

sup guys,

here is another rear dics brake conversion question:

for the e-brake cable do i need all 3 cables (center, left and right)? or do i just need the back 2 right and left cables?

now just to double check, are these the parts i need to complete the swap?

-left and right rotors
-left and right caliphers
-e-brake cable
-brake lines

now, i was reading the "how-to" article and it states that i need internal brake components, can some please be more detailed about the parts needed. also, the backplates, anyone have a pic of them??


thanks

[Kwanza26]

And again I will say... the How to is somewhat overly complicated. It implies you need to buy the rear in parts, as opposed to simply buying the whole assembly. The whole assembly will likely be cheaper too btw.

Assuming you're gonna buy the parts from the junkyard, simply detach the rear spindle fron the strut and rear suspension arms, then detach the brake lines from the body and the strut... not the caliper (should have a standard connector held in by a clip and then should be bolted onto the strut). The entire rear disc assembly would then come off and simply replace the rear drums (which removes the exactly same way). The only issue is the ebrake cables. You will only need the cables that are directly attached to the internal drum. You DO NOT need the handbrake (interior) cables. So far, it has been confirmed that the 5th gen ebrake cables do work. I'm pretty sure the 4th gens will work too. That's the jist of it... very straight-foreward conversion.

This post has been edited by Kwanza26: Jul 15, 2005 - 11:01 PM

[SilverCell94]

And again I will say... the How to is somewhat overly complicated.  It implies you need to buy the rear in parts, as opposed to simply buying the whole assembly.  The whole assembly will likely be cheaper too btw. 

Assuming you're gonna buy the parts from the junkyard, simply detach the rear spindle fron the strut and rear suspension arms, then detach the brake lines from the body and the strut... not the caliper (should have a standard connector held in by a clip and then should be bolted onto the strut).  The entire rear disc assembly would then come off and simply replace the rear drums (which removes the exactly same way).  The only issue is the ebrake cables.  You will only need the cables that are directly attached to the internal drum.  You DO NOT need the handbrake (interior) cables.  So far, it has been confirmed that the 5th gen ebrake cables do work.  I'm pretty sure the 4th gens will work too.  That's the jist of it... very straight-foreward conversion.
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so just buy the whole assembly, as for the e barke cables all i need are the left and right ones.

im most likely buying the entire assembly from a local toyota dealer being that i have alot of credit with them. so i should just ask for the celica gt rear brake assembly.

back to the e brake cables, you said that the 5th gen works does that mean the 6th gen wont?

thank you for your help

[Kwanza26]

back to the e brake cables, you said that the 5th gen works does that mean the 6th gen wont?
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Seriously dude... what compelled you to ask this? From a logical standpoint... that's a very silly question.

[celicaracer18]

i'm assuming he means 6th gen gt cables (for rear discs)

but the main reason i am posting is just to see if you would let me know your total cost when your done

[Kwanza26]

i'm assuming he means 6th gen gt cables (for rear discs)

but the main reason i am posting is just to see if you would let me know your total cost when your done
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I know exactly what he means... I'm just not sure he knows.

[Jeremy1210]

total setup ran me 350 with shipping. Some people more and less. Make sure that teh brake lines are not cracked and the calipers aren't frozen. But yeah, it is a very easy swap to do.

Remember to bleed the brakes after the swap

[Galcobar]

One advantage to doing it in pieces is that you can skip the alignment that is required when you detach the knuckle from the suspension arms and strut rod.

If you are going to buy the parts, you will need for each side:
caliper
caliper bracket/torque plate
backing plate (where the brackets mount)
e-brake assembly (whole bunch of parts that mount on the backing plate and essentially constitute a mini-drum brake)
e-brake cable
rotor (has an internal drum for the e-brake)
pads w/ shims
O-ring (replace old O-ring when removing hub)

The conversion by parts basically (skipping details) means you take off the wheel, drum, and then the hub, which frees the backing plate from the knuckle. Detach the e-brake cable from under the car where it joins the handle cable.

Replace the drum backing plate with the disc backing plate. Install the hub. Attach the torque bracket to the plate. Put on the rotor. Install the caliper. Hook up the brake fluid line. Hook up the e-brake cable. Bleed and adjust brakes.

[Kwanza26]

One advantage to doing it in pieces is that you can skip the alignment that is required when you detach the knuckle from the suspension arms and strut rod.

If you are going to buy the parts, you will need for each side:
caliper
caliper bracket/torque plate
backing plate (where the brackets mount)
e-brake assembly (whole bunch of parts that mount on the backing plate and essentially constitute a mini-drum brake)
e-brake cable
rotor (has an internal drum for the e-brake)
pads w/ shims
O-ring (replace old O-ring when removing hub)

The conversion by parts basically (skipping details) means you take off the wheel, drum, and then the hub, which frees the backing plate from the knuckle. Detach the e-brake cable from under the car where it joins the handle cable.

Replace the drum backing plate with the disc backing plate. Install the hub. Attach the torque bracket to the plate. Put on the rotor. Install the caliper. Hook up the brake fluid line. Hook up the e-brake cable. Bleed and adjust brakes.
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Doesn't work like that. The actual spindles are different...

[Galcobar]

How?

[Kwanza26]

How?
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First off... there is the spindle. It is the part that attaches to the strut and suspension arms. These are totally different. Your directions imply you just need to remove the actual brake components and can reuse the spindle, which is not gonna work. No matter what, you're gonna have to remove the spindle from the suspension arms and the strut. An alignment also isn't totally neccesary. I've done the conversion twice and never needed an alignment.

Second... buying parts in pieces is more expensive and more difficult. A lot of those smaller parts just can't be found easily... so why not just buy the entire rear disc assembly from the junkyard? It'll be maybe 100.00 or so... while buying calipers separately will be 20-30 bucks a piece from junkyards, to a 100.00 a piece new/rebuilt. And then there are miscellaneous parts, which add up, then you still have to reassemble everything. Doesn't make much sense to me when you can just buy the whole assembly and "bolt on". It's as if when there's something you can simply "bolt on"... people suddenly want to do it the hard way, while if there's something that requires custom fab... everyone wishes it were a bolt-on deal.

Here are some diagrams to help people figure things out... not you galcobar... you at least have a general idea what's going on.

[Galcobar]

The spindle, aka knuckle or axle carrier, is the same on those models not carrying the GT4 suspension, whether disc or drum on the rear.

I've got rear drums, and this suspension setup, including the spindle and hub,is identical to what's on my car.

I've seen the swap done between different years of the same generation and between fifth and sixth generations. Neither time was the knuckle necessary.

The hub is what holds the brakes to the knuckle. I think in the how-to posted on this board, he's referring to the spindle but actually means the hub.

When I said pick up just the parts, I meant grab the assembly minus the knuckle and hub, both of which are heavy as hell to ship and not necessary. The hub and knuckle/spindle are just what hold the parts together.

[Kwanza26]

Although you may be right... I still don't think so. Like I said previously, it's much easier to remove the spindle/knuckle off the suspension than to remove the brake components... let alone putting everything back together. Each to his own though... I still say it's an overly complicated way to look at it and do it. Like I mentioned previous, everyone wishes things were bolt-on... but when things do bolt-on... suddenly there are reasons to do it the complicated route.

[FallenHero]

I swaped the entire assembly over. I got the actual parts for $100 local, but I then bought uprade parts and such which brought be to a grand total of $400 installed.

[SilverCell94]

so overall, if you buy the entire rear disc brake assembly you can either purchase it with the spindles or without.

the swap will be the same whether you are using your stock ST spindles instead of GT spindles.

and the following parts that are needed will be (all from celica GT):

brake caliphers
disc brake rotors
e brake cables
e brake assembly
back plate

the optional parts will be the spindles

correct me if im wrong

thanks

This post has been edited by SilverCell94: Jul 23, 2005 - 11:51 PM

[Galcobar]

Missing:

caliper brackets (aka torque plates)
brake hose (flex line is different for discs than drums)

[Galcobar]

Update: just completed my rear disc brake conversion -- no axle carrier needed.

If these were fifth-gens, then a different hub would be needed on the 90-91 ST, which came with four-lug hubs that wouldn't fit the rotors, seeing as all Celicas with matching disc brakes are five-lug setups. Swapping between generations means you also need to swap the hub, as the centre bore on the fifth-gen hubs and rotors is not the same as the centre bore on the sixth-gen hubs and rotors (just ask Coomer).

However, from Coomer's experience, you could swap the fifth-gen rear brackets and calipers, but use sixth-gen rotors to match the the sixth-gen hub.

To clarify one question that was asked a while ago, the e-brake cables needed are the ones directly attached to the the backing plates. The puller cable coming off the e-brake handle and the equalizer bracket where the three cables meet is the same between drum and disk. In fact, as far as I can tell, the only difference between the drum and disc cables is the cast aluminum bracket used to bolt the cable to the respective backing plates. Some people have just used a Dremel to remove the section of the bracket on the drum brake cable that prevents it from being used on a disc brake setup.

This post has been edited by Galcobar: Sep 13, 2005 - 3:13 PM

[SoundSlut_dotcom]

just weld the back of a supra on ur car.. ull be fine.