A little system for now, changed a few things, Pics Options

[Clipsetuner]

Pioneer DEH-P560MP I got it cheap it sucks compared to my 7700 I had, but it works till the indash get here!

Power Acoustik LT960/4 bridged at 250rms running a 10W6 v2-4 hits decent the LT980/2 I ordered is on back order for about another 2 weeks but once it gets here she'll come alive.

Thinking of going 2 10w6's or something along the lines of that, suggestions?

DTE

[WannabeGT4]

My only suggestion would be to add some nails/screws to your sub box. I don't think you have enough in there. You need at least 500 in order to handle the power of a single 10 inch sub. LOL J/K it is a bit much though.

[runriot95]

My only suggestion would be to add some nails/screws to your sub box. I don't think you have enough in there. You need at least 500 in order to handle the power of a single 10 inch sub. LOL J/K it is a bit much though.
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LOL!!
Yeah I was thinking the same thing!

Not to pick on you dude, but wasn't there ever a moment where you said to yourself that's too many screws?

[Clipsetuner]

hey now its only 1 tube of chaulking and about 100 screws total, I like to build them so I never have air leaks and its pretty much bullet proof.

Example 1: Datsun 521 Box built febuary ish no air leaks to this day









DTE

[Coomer]

You really only need screws 6" apart or so. That's how I build my boxes and they've never leaked either.

[mark_426]

Yeah, my solobaric boxes only have probably 10 screws in, the rest is all glued and siliconed

edit
that dont leak, either.

This post has been edited by mark_426: Sep 1, 2005 - 8:07 PM

[tim86]

its sad how critical everybody is online... who cares about the damn screws, its his box and his sub or subs when he gets more, he doesnt need proof that everybodys box does not leak, but he simply asked for suggestions/comments on his setup and for the future... Nice work man, for the future I would upgrade to two JL's of ur pref

[snadman]

For an upgrade I'd hide all that wiring that's just clustered everywhere...maybe loom it or at least zip tie the stuff together? Maybe you're waiting to do that until you get the new amp in, which is another question. Why match such a nice sounding sub with a mediocre amp? I'm not being mean at all, just constructive criticism at its best and trying to help out. You should look into waiting a couple months to save for a JL amp instead of just settling for the Power Acoustic.

Also, maybe consider cancelling the order for the LT980/2 and honestly saving for a nice JL amp...because that 4 channel will actually be very nice for that sub. You bridge it down as you have it now which is "250Wx2 RMS @ 4 Ohms" Which is really great for you...what you do now is run each voice coil on each separate bridged channel. Now you are running the sub in "stereo" in theory, yet it's not because as long as the RCAs are coming from the Subwoofer pre-out, the two channels get mixed to a mono anyways so there is no true left and right. Plus your amp won't be too bad as it will see total 6 Ohm load on each channel. If you run each voice coil in parallel on only one channel, not only is the sub being underpowered but it is also making that bridged channel see a 3 Ohm load which is bad on Power Acoustic amps as they don't like anything below 4 Ohm or they freak out. The only other way is running both voice coils in series on one channel yet this makes no sense because the one channel will see a 12 Ohm load.

Sorry to go into so much detail with this, but I don't want you to mess that Sub up by wiring it wrong, because wiring it in the not optimal way on a mediocre amp can do some damage to either the sub or the amp. Take my advice for what it is I guess, but I recommend you run each voice coil on its own channel so the amp sees a total 6 Ohm load which will probably rate at about 208W RMS to each one...which is perfect as the sub in itself is rated at 400W RMS. Yay for wiring things correctly! Next, do what I said and save up for a nice JL amp.

This post has been edited by snadman: Sep 2, 2005 - 2:30 AM

[Clipsetuner]

You really only need screws 6" apart or so. That's how I build my boxes and they've never leaked either.

Yeah, my solobaric boxes only have probably 10 screws in, the rest is all glued and siliconed

edit
that dont leak, either.

Oddley enough tonight at work I ran into a guy(long story might be in O/T if I stay pissed about it) that does SPL among other things, he showed me his setup pretty impressive for older stuff, and he said my box looked really good, expect for a few cuts that arnt straight which the Liquid nails filled nicely. I know how many I did is over kill but having 3 drills and being able todo it fast, and its not like it hurts anything, also minding that a box (300ish screws) is about 90cents.

its sad how critical everybody is online... who cares about the damn screws, its his box and his sub or subs when he gets more, he doesnt need proof that everybodys box does not leak, but he simply asked for suggestions/comments on his setup and for the future... Nice work man, for the future I would upgrade to two JL's of ur pref

Thanks for the defense. I dont know entirely what I want to get yet I am thinking possilbe 2-3 10w6's but I dont know of anyone has ran a setup like that so gonna look into it some more.

For an upgrade I'd hide all that wiring that's just clustered everywhere...maybe loom it or at least zip tie the stuff together? Maybe you're waiting to do that until you get the new amp in, which is another question. Why match such a nice sounding sub with a mediocre amp? I'm not being mean at all, just constructive criticism at its best and trying to help out. You should look into waiting a couple months to save for a JL amp instead of just settling for the Power Acoustic.

Also, maybe consider cancelling the order for the LT980/2 and honestly saving for a nice JL amp...because that 4 channel will actually be very nice for that sub. You bridge it down as you have it now which is "250Wx2 RMS @ 4 Ohms" Which is really great for you...what you do now is run each voice coil on each separate bridged channel. Now you are running the sub in "stereo" in theory, yet it's not because as long as the RCAs are coming from the Subwoofer pre-out, the two channels get mixed to a mono anyways so there is no true left and right. Plus your amp won't be too bad as it will see total 6 Ohm load on each channel. If you run each voice coil in parallel on only one channel, not only is the sub being underpowered but it is also making that bridged channel see a 3 Ohm load which is bad on Power Acoustic amps as they don't like anything below 4 Ohm or they freak out. The only other way is running both voice coils in series on one channel yet this makes no sense because the one channel will see a 12 Ohm load.

Sorry to go into so much detail with this, but I don't want you to mess that Sub up by wiring it wrong, because wiring it in the not optimal way on a mediocre amp can do some damage to either the sub or the amp. Take my advice for what it is I guess, but I recommend you run each voice coil on its own channel so the amp sees a total 6 Ohm load which will probably rate at about 208W RMS to each one...which is perfect as the sub in itself is rated at 400W RMS. Yay for wiring things correctly! Next, do what I said and save up for a nice JL amp.

Wiring originization is coming once I get the other amp. I chose Power Acoustik for alot of reasons not just being price, There are alot of negative thoughts on there products but Ive owned going on 5 now and alot of people I know run them for many years trouble free and they entirely back there factory warrenty unless complete abuse of the product happens.

I considered running the amp twice bridged one to each channel but I heard wiring has to be extact same length or it can damage both voice coils, so I really didnt want to risk hurting such a expensive sub, correct me if my thoughts are wrong on this.

DTE

[Coomer]

Regardless of amp reliability, the sound quality isn't going to be as good as a nice amp. This doesn't matter so much for the sub, but with your front stage, you'll notice a difference between your current amp and something a bit nicer.

[snadman]

Definitely true what coomer said. And, relatively true what you said. First off it's not that hard to cut a piece of speaker wire two feet and then match it up and cut an exact copy. In any case, as long as it's within about 4 inches it won't matter, but like I said cut a piece the right length and cut an exact copy, not too hard at all. lol

[Abraxis64]

contrary to popular belief, screws don't actually do anything as far as actually holding the box is concerned--their main purpose is to hold the panels together while the glue dries. that having been said, i can't really see too many screws as being detrimental, although it could conceivably cause integrity issues within the individual panels--try take a panel of mdf...then put a screw in the side....then repeat several times in the same area and see what happens. a lot of times, if you don't have predrilled holes and use the wrong type of screw, you get splitting. don't think that happened here, but it is possible.

peace

ps. nice sub...and, i'm with you--you can do a lot better than power acoustik. even for cheap, you can find at least a hifonics or something

[Clipsetuner]

Coomer - I get what your say'n, I would like togo some nicer amps later down the line but these work great for the time being and only being out 200$ for both brand new isnt bad compared to the JL 500.1 I was lookin at for 350$, If you have any reccomendations for amps I would like to hear them.

snadman - I might try it today and see how it sounds. Instead of hooking them together (+ to a -) running each coil to each bridged option on the amp, and amp running 4 ohms, the sub will be at 6ohms?

Abraxis64 - I understand there is such a thing as too many but it my case its hurting nothing at all, all holes were pre-drilled and counter sunk, when putting it all together no cracking, or bulging of any kind.

anyone with mutlipule w6's?

DTE

[Coomer]

Coomer - I get what your say'n, I would like togo some nicer amps later down the line but these work great for the time being and only being out 200$ for both brand new isnt bad compared to the JL 500.1 I was lookin at for 350$, If you have any reccomendations for amps I would like to hear them.
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I understand. I'm in the same situation not being able to afford nicer amps yet. Right now I'm running a Profile for my front stage.

[Clipsetuner]

Well I did a temp fixed, wired it 2 x 250 so 250rms per coil sounds pretty good cant wait for more power.



DTE

[Abraxis64]

your original post says you've got a "10w6v2-4"....i assume you meant "d4" as there are no single coil w6v2s...wire the coils in parallel to something like this and you'll definitely have a higher quality powersource...just be careful with the gains. if you add another w6, you can drop the total impendence to 1ohm and suck 1500w

peace

[snadman]

Uhhh...yeah. An amp doesn't put out 4 ohms lol...that just means when the amp sees a load of 4 ohms it will put out 250W Rms. Since you have 10w6 sub, that is a 6 ohm sub...so the amp is seeing a 6 ohm load, hence it won't put out 250W RMS, more like 208W RMS. In any case, i'm glad my wiring advice helped. i knew it would.

[Abraxis64]

snad,

i don't believe jl's retarded 3ohm scheme has carried over to the w6v2...that's reserved for the w7...

peace