prep work, before painting |
prep work, before painting |
Oct 24, 2005 - 2:39 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Jan 9, '03 From St. Louis Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
I'm about to have my car painted and I would like to save a little cash by doing the prep work by myself. Is there a good place online to read a "how to" on prep work? I've never done to much body work, I've worked a little on fiberglass but nothing to big. My knowledge as of right now consists of:
Sanding the original paint down to the primer using 400 grit, do I just use regular sand paper for this? should I start with a lower grit and work my way up? Should I just use an electric palm sander? Also What is a "wet sand" I read it discussed in another thread. I plan on taking all the trim off of it except the windows. is there some kind of paint stripper I should use? Do I put on another coat of primer when I sand down to the stock primer? Sorry for all the questions, thanks for reading. -------------------- [img]http://photos-081.facebook.com/n6/081/n15913038_30266081_3342.jpg[/img]
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Oct 24, 2005 - 3:01 PM |
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Administrator Joined Aug 23, '02 From Seattle, WA Currently Offline Reputation: 14 (100%) |
You don't need to sand down to primer...if the body is straight you just need to scuff the paint to get the paint to adhere to it. http://www.autobody101.com has tons of good info.
-------------------- New Toyota project coming soon...
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Oct 24, 2005 - 3:23 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Feb 16, '03 Currently Offline Reputation: 1 (100%) |
wet sand u usually use a 2000 wet the area and dip the paper in water and sand
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Oct 24, 2005 - 4:46 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Oct 3, '02 From Va Team 6gc Currently Offline Reputation: 1 (100%) |
2000 is way to fine, but i used a 400 wet sand from 3M. power sander isn't needed just a block.
-------------------- All I have in this world is my Balls and my Word and I'm not breaking em for no one,- Tony Montana Team 6gc 2005 |
Oct 24, 2005 - 8:14 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Jan 9, '03 From St. Louis Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
How long do you guys think it would take to do the prep work? I know I don't have to use a power sander, but you can buy one from wal mart for like $20, so wouldn't it be worth it?
-------------------- [img]http://photos-081.facebook.com/n6/081/n15913038_30266081_3342.jpg[/img]
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Oct 24, 2005 - 11:33 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Oct 3, '02 From Va Team 6gc Currently Offline Reputation: 1 (100%) |
it takes about a week, or less. i prefer block and my hand because in certain area's like bumper u need to be carefull. some layers arent that thick and u could take it to surface.
-------------------- All I have in this world is my Balls and my Word and I'm not breaking em for no one,- Tony Montana Team 6gc 2005 |
Oct 25, 2005 - 1:41 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined May 5, '03 From Toronto Currently Offline Reputation: 3 (100%) |
if no body work needs to be done, block sand it with wet 600. Don't use a palm sander. If the paint is original, just the shine needs to come off. If its not original, hope that the previous paint job was done right. You can't miss any spots and you can't sand too much in one area because it'll cause low spots. The main difference between a good paint job and a bad one is the prep work.
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Oct 25, 2005 - 2:18 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Jul 5, '05 From Arlington, TX Currently Offline Reputation: 2 (100%) |
When I paint the celi, I plan on sanding it down to the bare metal with a power sander like in the picture. Do you guys think this will be better? Because i have some parts of the body that have chipped paint and rust has appeared.
I found this website that shows me how to do it if anyone is interested. http://www.autobodystore.com/strip_&_paint.htm also, if anyone plans on using a power sander - i found a site that has one for a pretty good price heres the site http://www.midwayautosupply.com/detailedpr...iption.asp?4622 $70 + S/H not too bad they have alot of other good tools also for a good price I plan on painting the car myself only if i can find a location that i can rent out for about 1-2 months This post has been edited by celicarus: Oct 25, 2005 - 2:44 PM |
Oct 26, 2005 - 1:56 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Sep 6, '03 From hudson ,iowa Currently Offline Reputation: 1 (100%) |
i went to school for autobody and have had best luck with 500 wet sand with soft block or hand or 800 wet sand with 6 inch da with foam backing so you dont sand threw right away on the edges and helps on contours ,,, and buy the picture you have there thats a big angle grinder and is in no way necersary for preping a car if the body is strait ,, you have deep scracthes caused by that
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Oct 26, 2005 - 10:38 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Jan 9, '03 From St. Louis Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
right now, I'm using a palm sander with 400 grit, but thats because I'm doing it on my front lip, which I ran into a curb and broke in half. So they wanted to charge me 3 labor hours to fix it, so I just refiberglassed it and now I'm trying to sand it back to normal. They also wanted 3 hours of labor to fit my skirts.
-------------------- [img]http://photos-081.facebook.com/n6/081/n15913038_30266081_3342.jpg[/img]
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Oct 26, 2005 - 12:12 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined May 5, '03 From Toronto Currently Offline Reputation: 3 (100%) |
QUOTE(celicarus @ Oct 25, 2005 - 12:18 PM) When I paint the celi, I plan on sanding it down to the bare metal with a power sander like in the picture. Do you guys think this will be better? Because i have some parts of the body that have chipped paint and rust has appeared. I found this website that shows me how to do it if anyone is interested. http://www.autobodystore.com/strip_&_paint.htm also, if anyone plans on using a power sander - i found a site that has one for a pretty good price heres the site http://www.midwayautosupply.com/detailedpr...iption.asp?4622 $70 + S/H not too bad they have alot of other good tools also for a good price I plan on painting the car myself only if i can find a location that i can rent out for about 1-2 months [right][snapback]348874[/snapback][/right] Sanding down to the bare metal isn't necessary and also a bad idea. You'll cause deep scratches and spend 3 months looking over the car trying t find them all. Also realize the more scratches you have the more bondo you'll use. If completely stripping the car really turns you on, be smart and use a chemical stripper. Obviously the rust spots, dings, and dents will require grinding and sanding. |
Oct 26, 2005 - 12:56 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Jul 5, '05 From Arlington, TX Currently Offline Reputation: 2 (100%) |
thanks for the info - will remember that when i get ready to do it
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