HELP! Error code #54 and weird behaviour, (after an engine swap) Options

[Hardy]

Hello,
I'm in desperate need for help!

Those who know error code #54 will know how troublesome it can be.
Here's the situation:

JDM ST205 3S-GTE Gen. 3 with a European ST205 ECU integrated into a Corolla E11. All five wires are connected to the pump like Toyota did it. Three wires connected to the other two - one on red, two on black. It seems to be the right combination because in other combinations the problem is much worse. (No pump control at all I think.)

When the engine is started, the ECU can control the pump, but it doesn't simply switch it off after 30 seconds without throttle activity. What happens is this:
- Engine started
- Pump runs for very short time or not at all (0-2 seconds)
- Pump switches off
- Now when the throttle is opened (once or for a longer time, doesn't matter), the pump is activated for 4-5 seconds
- Pump switches off and engine control light is on -> error code #54
- Light goes away after engine is stopped and restarted

By now the mechanic will also have tried to bridge the connector to the water level sensor to ensure that this is not the cause. He used two different pumps (Toyota OEM and a compact one), but that didn't change anything.
I hope my ECU wasn't damaged during testing, but it's said ECUs don't break that easily.

[Dr_Tweak]

Sounds like your mechanic needs to learn how to read a wiring diagram.

-Doc

[Hardy]

Well, at least I'm told that with code #54 the ECU won't switch to emergency-mode and burn ungodly amounts of fuel, but will only reduce the max. boost. Someone I know drove over a year with the error.
So I have time to fix it. But it's weird and annoying nevertheless.

[Defgeph]

Wire up the pump to run constantly, then ground one pink pink wire on the ecu. then code 54 will go away.

If you search here you find a thread about it.

DEF

[Hardy]

I couldn't find the thread.

You mean, there's a full-pink wire that comes from the ECU and then has to be connected to ground on the other end? Is there only one pink wire? What's it for? What will happen when it's grounded? Where does it appear in the engine compartment, so I know where it can be accessed easily?

Thanks for the info! Already sounds promising, like a secret tip, so easy!

[WannabeGT4]

http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=29636
http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=23139
http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?act=findpost&pid=331288

This post has been edited by WannabeGT4: Nov 8, 2005 - 7:22 PM

[Hardy]

@DEF
Are you referring to the intercooler ECU of the ST185 RS or the main ECU of the ST205?
I took a look at the pinouts and obviously you simply grounded the wire for the intercooler water level sensor (near the ECU). And that makes the error code go away even if not the sensor is the problem but I messed around with the pump?! (It sounds almost too easy.) Won't that have the same effect as bridging the sensor at the connector? Because my mechanic already tried that, I think.

This post has been edited by Hardy: Nov 9, 2005 - 4:50 AM

[Defgeph]

Ground the wire on the main ECU, find a new full time power source for the pump.
Dont even bother with the water level sensor.
After swaping you lost all stock functionality of your intercooler ECU. So now it needs to be controlled manually.

Bridging the connections on the water level sensor only works on stock 205's, not swapped cars.

good luck
DEF

[WannabeGT4]

Ground the wire on the main ECU, find a new full time power source for the pump.
Dont even bother with the water level sensor.
After swaping you lost all stock functionality of your intercooler  ECU.  So now it needs to be controlled manually.

Bridging  the connections on the water level sensor only works on stock 205's, not swapped cars.

good luck
DEF
[right][snapback]354943[/snapback][/right]

I thought the ST205s didn't have an Intercooler ECU. It looks like it was all combined into the main ECU. MTT, M+, and M-, aren't on the ST185RC computer. INT and LEV are the only two that the RC and ST205 have in common.


This post has been edited by WannabeGT4: Nov 9, 2005 - 10:38 AM

[Defgeph]

You're probably right. but during a swap some of those wire could travel into the interior harness and get lost. I'm still gonna stick with bypassing all of it.
And sending one or two wires to ground.

The second link that Wannabe posted should tell you how to do it on a 205.

GL,
DEF

[Hardy]

By the way... Here's a picture - in case you wondered what it might look like.

[djr97]

boah, der hardy kann auch englisch

welcome and good luck

[Hardy]

Sieh an! Wen man so alles trifft. Gut, daß ich nicht schon vorher hier gepostet habe.

[lagos]

looks awesome