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> alpine type-s
post Jan 24, 2006 - 12:00 AM
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kash1355

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theres a pair of type-s on ebay and it says "These speakers sound MINT, They are over stock units or display models! Rubbers have very small 1mm puncture. They work great Guaranteed or money back!"

Can I fix the puncture, or will it not matter? Its going for $60 for the pair ... hmm decision time
post Jan 24, 2006 - 12:54 AM
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tangcla



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It should sound fine.

how much are a new pair? It's probably worthwhile just to try to play with it.


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post Jan 24, 2006 - 9:35 AM
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celica47



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Are they components or regular?


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post Jan 24, 2006 - 5:08 PM
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lilsteeg



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im not sure about type s but i know a 12" type r is $250, but they are worth it my friend has 2 of them in his 240 with 1600 watts, it shakes the drywall off of the roof in his garage
post Jan 24, 2006 - 7:21 PM
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celicaST



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QUOTE(lilsteeg @ Jan 24, 2006 - 3:08 PM) [snapback]383575[/snapback]

im not sure about type s but i know a 12" type r is $250, but they are worth it my friend has 2 of them in his 240 with 1600 watts, it shakes the drywall off of the roof in his garage


i dont think he's referring to the subs, but the type s speakers. if theyre the the sps 170a, i would just get them new. those are what i have and they cost me 80$ a pair when i got them. if there the component 171a, thats a good deal because they retail at around 199 a pair. i wouldnt think a 1mm puncture should be a large problem.


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post Jan 24, 2006 - 7:54 PM
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kash1355

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sorry i for to write sub ... yea . theyre 2 10" subs .. alpine type-s ... dual coil.

I'm just worried about the 1mm puncture in the rubber... will it effect anything .. and is it repairable?
post Jan 24, 2006 - 7:56 PM
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tangcla



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1mm should be right. Might make some farting noises when it plays though... but nothing major. Bargain for $60!


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post Jan 24, 2006 - 8:04 PM
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kash1355

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would i be better to go wit 2 10" infinity's ... for $47 US

Subwoofer Specifications

* Size: 10 inch
* Rec. Sealed Box Dims: 0.75 cu.ft.
* Rec. Ported Box Dims: 1.75 cu.ft.
* Free Air Usage: yes
* Sensitivity: 90 dB
* Frequency Response: 25-250 Hz
* Recommended RMS Power: 250W
* Peak Power Handling: 1000W
* Impedance: 4 ohms
post Jan 24, 2006 - 9:52 PM
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lilsteeg



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well alpine does make better stuff than infinity, but for just a daily driver you dont need extreme bass so i would go with the infinity's
post Jan 24, 2006 - 9:59 PM
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kash1355

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I just bought them ... heres the link if anyone sees anythin they like .. http://search.ebay.ca/_W0QQsassZcaraudio4muchlessQQhtZ-1
pretty good stuff for a cheap price.

But now i guess my question is .. what amp should I get for the subs. I'm really confused when it comes to this stuff as you can tell. All I know Is that I need a mono amp for the subs (I'm only gonna be connecting subs to the amp) .. .sooo ..how many watts should the amp have ... lol . really my question is which amp should I get?
I was looking at audiobahn amps .. everyones input is welcome!
post Jan 24, 2006 - 10:03 PM
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tangcla



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hate to confuse you more... but you don't have to use a monoblock. How many ohms are the subs each?


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post Jan 24, 2006 - 10:10 PM
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lilsteeg



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well you want a 2 channel amp that runs no more than 500 watts rms at 4 ohms( thats 250 rms each channel perfect match for subs) and peak power no more than 2000 watts, which you dont need that much
post Jan 24, 2006 - 10:27 PM
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kash1355

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wow, I am more confused than ever. I was told by so many car audio places that I should run a mono amp because those are specifically made for subwoofers. Because they asked me if I was gonna be connecting any speakers and I said no so they said I would want a mono strictly for the 2 subs. hmmm .. you guys would obviously know what ur talkin about cuz ur not tryin to sell me anythin like they were. Could u tell me why they would said to go with a mono amp tho?
post Jan 25, 2006 - 3:23 PM
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lilsteeg



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they probally said to go with a mono amp because the subs dont take much power, but i wouldnt go mono just because connecting two subs to where 1 is supposed to be connected. that would mean that you are pulling 8 ohms out of and amp that is designed to push out at 4 ohms
post Jan 25, 2006 - 4:38 PM
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kash1355

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that makes perfect sense. Well I'm reading about different amps and do i want:

500W RMS X 1 @ 4ohms
500W RMS X 2 @ 4ohms

250W RMS X 1 @ 4ohms
250W RMS X 2 @ 4ohms

Is 500W X 1 @ 4ohms the same as 250W X 2 @ 4ohms?

Also, could any suggest some good brands (and/or models) to go with ... theres too much selection!
post Jan 25, 2006 - 4:47 PM
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tangcla



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Are your subs 2ohm or 4ohm each? That makes all the difference in what amp you want to get.

500Wx1@4ohm is effectively the same as 250Wx2@4ohm. However if your amps are 4ohm each, run them in 2ohm configuration as most monoblocks are more efficient with 2 ohm delivery.


Actually you will want to get a monoblock for the reason that TRUE monoblocks (class D amps) are very power efficient - they use about 70% power (the rest goes to heat) as opposed to 40-50% of regular (class A/B) amps. That will help with headlight dimming problems and the like.

Brands, it's all personal preference. Alpine are always nice but they aren't cheap.
Im running an Audison (Italian made) amp, I'm more into SQ than doof-doof. I like the MB Quart amps (beware, apparently there are fake MB Quart amps on eBay!), if you want to s tay American you can go JL Audio or Soundstream as they both make awesome stuff.

Don't like Fusion tho. tongue.gif


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post Jan 25, 2006 - 5:20 PM
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kash1355

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I got 2 of these inifinty 10" subs

* Size: 10 inch
* Rec. Sealed Box Dims: 0.75 cu.ft.
* Rec. Ported Box Dims: 1.75 cu.ft.
* Free Air Usage: yes
* Sensitivity: 90 dB
* Frequency Response: 25-250 Hz
* Recommended RMS Power: 250W
* Peak Power Handling: 1000W
* Impedance: 4 ohms
post Jan 25, 2006 - 5:57 PM
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tangcla



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Then you can run them in series (I think - always forget here confused.gif ) and bring it down to 2 ohm, which is much more efficient. Get yourself a decent monoblock which does 2 ohms stable. smile.gif


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Canon EOS 5D Mark II | EOS 1D Mark II N | 16-35mm f/2.8L |24-70mm f/2.8L | 70-200mm f/2.8L IS
15mm f/2.8 fisheye | 85mm f/1.8 | 100mm f/2.8 macro | 580EX-II x2
post Jan 25, 2006 - 6:01 PM
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lilsteeg



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i would get the 250W RMS x2 @4 Ohms
but thats just me, ive never tryd to run a mono, but just the physics of it doesnt seem to perform well, in trying to push 500W through 8ohms of resistance when its desighned to do that at 4ohms

This post has been edited by lilsteeg: Jan 25, 2006 - 6:01 PM
post Jan 25, 2006 - 6:08 PM
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tangcla



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no, when you have two 4-ohm subs you can either run them in parallel or series. Doing so will give you either 8ohms (which is what you said) or 2ohm (which is much more desirable over 4ohm!).

Monoblock is the most efficient... look at getting something like last-year's Alpine MRD-M500 as a starting point. Or the JL 500/1.


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Canon EOS 5D Mark II | EOS 1D Mark II N | 16-35mm f/2.8L |24-70mm f/2.8L | 70-200mm f/2.8L IS
15mm f/2.8 fisheye | 85mm f/1.8 | 100mm f/2.8 macro | 580EX-II x2

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