What I've been up to out in the shop (lots of pics) Options

[Dr_Tweak]

I figured I'd show you guys what I've been doing out in the shop. I posted about this car a while back ('92 GT auto, conversion to manual and 3SGTE swap), here's the latest on it. (Posts copied and pasted in order).

Basically, yesterday I put everything together and I wasn't able to get it started due to no spark. After tracing it out and writing a thread on Celicatech, http://www.celicatech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=13806, I figured out that the coil was bad, and the coil and ignitor weren't grounded well enough. After fixing that, the engine fired right up (early this morning). I went to bed and then came out to the shop at around 3 this afternoon, to start it up and do the first phase of engine break-in.

The first problem I had was that the engine would start and run for a second and then die. For some reason, the fuel pump isn't staying on after the engine starts. I jumped it at the diagnostic connector and will deal with it later. After fixing a vacuum leak the engine started running beautifully! But then...

While Niki was in the car holding the engine at a stead 2000 rpm and watching the temp, I kept an eye on the oil pressure and any leaks. After the engine ran for a few minutes, I noticed a puddle forming on the ground under the front of the engine. It was pretty minor so I left it for the time being, but then, we started getting a major leak from the rear of the engine. I slid under the car and took a look, and oil was spraying all over the back of the flywheel and dripping down.

It soon became apparent to me that the rear main seal was leaking badly, along with a seal at the front of the engine, possibly the crank seal. After thinking over my options, I realized that the only way to get it fixed was to remove the engine.

First, I drained the oil and got another nasty suprise. The oil was very milky, and when I put Speedi-dri on it, it turned green... seems like the coolant was getting into the oil. Seems to me that perhaps the head gasket wasn't installed correctly? Is there any other way for the coolant to get into the oil?

So, I busted my butt and pulled (rather, dropped) the engine in just over an hour, pulled the tranny, put it on the stand, pulled the front of the engine apart, along with the rear. First thing I noticed was that the timing belt was loose, the cam sprockets had actually jumped a tooth, the dots did not line up! I was able to just pull the belt off by hand without taking the tensioner off. Thankfully it was just one tooth each so the engine should be okay. Seems like the tensioner wasn't installed correctly....

Then I put my air ratchet on the oil pump and cranked it, got the pressure up to 50 psi, and sure enough, oil was spitting right out the bottom of the rear main seal. It's brand new, I don't know why it's doing that. Also appears that the front main seal is allowing oil by.

So, my plan is to replace the front and rear main seals, the oil pump gasket, and unless I come up with another reason for coolant in the oil, the head gasket.

I got the whole front, rear, and bottom of the engine pulled apart, along with the intake manifold removed. Monday is when I'm back in the shop, I'll pull the exhaust manifold and the head in preparation for the parts.

The good news is, the engine DID start and run, and it sounded good at the time!

------------------------

So today I finished removing everything so that it's ready to go once I get the parts in. Here's what the engine looked like at the end of the day yesterday:





Ruel, if you're reading this, I'm going to redo the two air lines for you like this, when you come up for the E153.



Check out the flaking on this exhaust valve, you think it might be a problem?



The pile of parts...



The block all cleaned up:





And the cylinder head. I did have to remove the intake cam to access one of the bolts, just because the tool I was using was a little too fat to get a good angle on the bolt head with the cam in the way.





Next week I'll have some shots of it going back together

-Doc

This post has been edited by Dr_Tweak: Jan 23, 2006 - 12:37 AM

[Silver94CelicaOw...]

Looks and sounds like a lot of work got done. Great job once again, doc. You really know what your doing.

BTW can you explain your setup with the air lines that you re-routed?

[Dr_Tweak]

Oh yeah, well those are the air lines for the IAC and PCV, they go to the intake before the turbo but after the AFM. On the stock intake tube they have a spot, but Keith here (and Ruel) are using a different, metal intake tube setup. Keith's here is straight with a relocated battery to the truck, and Ruels is a 90 degree going back towards the firewall. In both cases there needs to be a good, solid connection for the two air lines.

With Ruel's setup I really didn't like the way that they came out, and they aren't sealed as well as they could. After discussing it with a buddy of mine we came up with this setup which is just perfect, it's two 1/2" hose connections with an NPT thread, I drilled and tapped the intake tube and it's a strong, solid, airtight fit. I'll probably redo Ruel's when he comes up for the E153 conversion.

Here's how Ruel's is set up:



-Doc

This post has been edited by Dr_Tweak: Jan 23, 2006 - 2:37 AM

[celicast3sgte]

nice 6g72 doc, let me know if you have parts left over from the clip and/or motor

[Dr_Tweak]

I'm going to have quite a bit left over, let me know what you're looking for: drtweak@phoenixtuning.com

-Doc

[CelicaZR]

Good work Doc
I'll keep an eye on this post.
Wow from auto to manual
and from N/A to turbo.
Now thats a conversion

[playr158]

hey doc do you think you could get us a few more pictures and information on the bracket you made when clocking the turbo

[presure2]

good wqrk tweek, like the intake setup. =)

[Silver94CelicaOw...]

Thanks for the explaination Doc, I really like that too.

[JFrost9]

wow seems like a lot of small troubling problems... are these kinda things normal for post swaps?? Im just curious what kinda problems people normally run into towards the end of a swap.

[BBoYRuGGeD]

wait..doc ur gunna have to email me how u did that iac and pcv tap..ive got a 90 degree bend here that im gunna use for another intake pipe

bboy

[Dr_Tweak]

Good work Doc
I'll keep an eye on this post.
Wow from auto to manual
and from N/A to turbo.
Now thats a conversion

Psh that aint nothing, bboyrugged's swap was more complicated because he had an ST auto! Of course, he didn't buy a crap engine and have a crappy mechanic install it.... lol

playr, next time I clock a 3SGTE turbo, or when bboy comes up, I'll see about making some more.

JFrost9, this isn't typical at all, but Keith, the owner, bought this engine for like $500 and it turned out it was bad (that's why you don't buy 3SGTEs for $500), plus he got screwed over by the guy who was supposed to put it in, so when it finally got here it had a ton of problems that I've been sorting out. Normally, this doesn't happen.

BBoy, you got mail.

[lagos]

where did yo find those fittings for the intake. i have tried looking around before, but could never find anything big enough.

[Dr_Tweak]

Right at my local parts store