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> tranny change, now working a "how to"
post Feb 23, 2006 - 3:16 PM
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jayi12-15psi

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he got it from the junkyard with 56k miles on it.


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post Feb 23, 2006 - 11:26 PM
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lake1069

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****still adding changes and pics updated 2/27/06****
howto
once u are 120% sure that you clutch or tranny need to be replaced find the parts that u need, whether its a whole tranny or a clutch. I First thing take a picture or a mental picture of where everything goes especially wire connection, once you got this begin by to remove everything that blocks your view of the transmission. and by this i mean

shifter cable
slave master cylinder
battery
air intake
the black box left of the battery
battery starter

**some other little things, im taking pics of everythings!!!**


use preassure2's advice
QUOTE
another good tip is to take a peice of cardboard, draw a circle on it.
when you remove the bolts that connect the tranny to the block, you can push the bolts thru the cardboard in the corresponding spot on the circle so that you dont forget which bolt came from where. there are a few diffrent sizes and lengths, and they go in from both sides of the tranny.


user posted image

then something like this

user posted image

jack up the car, i placed two jack stands on the chassis of the car along with two floor jacks on the engine(will put up pic soon). next thing to do is take out both axels, the right one is pretty easy to take off and left one tends to give trouble because of some safety preasure thing that holds it so in since only the other side has the safety bolts.
ill begin with the right one, take the tire off and remove the axel nut but make sure you remove the safety pin before you do this. This next part is taking off the breaks, **you dont have to do it** but i just do it. to take the brakes off there are two bolts on the back of the rotor i believe they are 17mm. this will release the whole caliper. it is not a good idea to let the caliper hanging from the brake hose since the caliper weighs about 40 pounds so you can use a bungie cord to tie it up or let it rest on something or dont take it off at all.
brake bolts
user posted image


the two bolts that hold the strut and hub assembly together have to taken off these are 19mm i think.
here is the pic.

struts bolts
user posted image

after this is done you should be able to pop out the axel from the hub assembly. The axel will not come out right now, there are two bolts that are part of a safety lock to prevent the axel from ever coming out, these are located at the midpoint of the axel, (pic is coming soon) once these have been taken off that axel can be pulled out(pic). for the other side the process is the same. the only difference is that they're is no safety bolt. this can be a pain to get out. here is a old post that can help
http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=19611&hl=

now that both axels are out, the tranny needs to come down.

SECURING THE ENGINE

the front, back and passenger mounts will need to come off before the tranny comes down. but u cant do this until the engine is secured. im going to tell what i did **not a very safest way**and the hanyes way which is much safer. I raised the car and let it rest on the chassis on two stands(one on each side). i let the engine rest on a floor jack with a piece of wood to provide a surface for it to rest on, than another floor jack with wood right where the tranny meets the engine.
user posted image
user posted image

HANYES way
user posted image
.........*........

This post has been edited by lake1069: Feb 27, 2006 - 12:39 PM
post Feb 24, 2006 - 5:46 AM
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presure2



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lake, you need to include ALOT more detail than that.
all the little details that you skipped are all the important ones.
also. the way you dissasembeld your suspension to remove your axels is VERY odd, to say the least.
you do not need to remove the carrier from the strut to get your axles out.
you also do not need to remove your brakes at all.
all you need to do is remove the 2 nuts and 1 bolt from the ball joint and pop it apart, once you have the axle nut off. then you just pop the axle out.
its also best to just get a box of the small ziplock bags and put all your nuts and bolts you remove into labled bags, so that way, you know where everything goes when you go to reinstall them
another good tip is to take a peice of cardboard, draw a circle on it.
when you remove the bolts that connect the tranny to the block, you can push the bolts thru the cardboard in the corresponding spot on the circle so that you dont forget which bolt came from where. there are a few diffrent sizes and lengths, and they go in from both sides of the tranny.
ect ect...


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post Feb 24, 2006 - 7:18 AM
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madmods



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This has been an interesting post so far. I also have a clutch to put in and deciding should I pay someone 300 to do it, or conquer it myself. I have a time restraint also, I work alot of hours 7 days straight lately.
If I do, I will add to the write up so it can become a stickie in the future. Lagos also put up a good video
on a clutch installment that people should see.
post Feb 24, 2006 - 7:25 AM
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presure2



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mad, 300$ i wouldnt cosider too bad of a price for the labor to do it.
i know toyota gets over 600$ in labor alone for a clutch change.
that said,
if you have basic mechanical ability, and basic tools, (having a engine hoist REALLY helps when trying to support the motor) it can be done without TOO much hassle.


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post Feb 24, 2006 - 7:30 AM
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madmods



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QUOTE(presure2 @ Feb 24, 2006 - 12:25 PM) [snapback]398880[/snapback]

mad, 300$ i wouldnt cosider too bad of a price for the labor to do it.
i know toyota gets over 600$ in labor alone for a clutch change.
that said,
if you have basic mechanical ability, and basic tools, (having a engine hoist REALLY helps when trying to support the motor) it can be done without TOO much hassle.

I got quoted 600 total.00 for a cheap clutch, and 300 for the labor. I got the clutch seperately, so I might just pay the 300. Tired of getting dirty!
post Feb 24, 2006 - 9:14 AM
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lagos



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QUOTE
another good tip is to take a peice of cardboard, draw a circle on it.
when you remove the bolts that connect the tranny to the block, you can push the bolts thru the cardboard in the corresponding spot on the circle so that you dont forget which bolt came from where. there are a few diffrent sizes and lengths, and they go in from both sides of the tranny.


good tip, buddy! thumbsup.gif

id like to hear some good tips on how to support the motor without an engine lift. one motor mount, and a floor jack with some wood on it, sounds very unsafe to me, and probably a major pain to align the drivers side mount.

i found a good video that compliments this HowTo very well, one the specifics of doing the clutch job.
http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=34164


madmods, for 300bucks i would just pay to do it. its a big job and sometimes not worth the hassle if you dont have your own garage or the proper tools to get it done.


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post Feb 24, 2006 - 9:16 AM
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soulshadow



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Never mess with a tranny, you guys should have seen the assembly diagrams first, freak out, panic, then give it a shot.
post Feb 24, 2006 - 12:03 PM
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presure2



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QUOTE
id like to hear some good tips on how to support the motor without an engine lift. one motor mount, and a floor jack with some wood on it, sounds very unsafe to me, and probably a major pain to align the drivers side mount.

the hanyes says to use a 4X4 across the strut towers with chains..we thought about it when we did my cousins rear main, but it was easier to just use the engine hoist


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post Feb 24, 2006 - 12:53 PM
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lake1069

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im going back to break everything down into more details with more detailed pics, as far as holding on to the engine i just use two floor jacks, then 2 towers i guess they're called to hold on to the car. ive done it this way with a 93 mx-3, 97 eclipse, and celica. i am by no means saying this is the safe way to go, this is just the only way i that i know how to do it w/o a lift. if someone would like to help me with this part please do.
post Feb 24, 2006 - 1:15 PM
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QUOTE(lake1069 @ Feb 24, 2006 - 9:53 AM) [snapback]399045[/snapback]

im going back to break everything down into more details with more detailed pics, as far as holding on to the engine i just use two floor jacks, then 2 towers i guess they're called to hold on to the car. ive done it this way with a 93 mx-3, 97 eclipse, and celica. i am by no means saying this is the safe way to go, this is just the only way i that i know how to do it w/o a lift. if someone would like to help me with this part please do.


Pic from how-to article

user posted image
post Feb 25, 2006 - 4:23 PM
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lake1069

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im breaking all the details into details, with pics of everything. im determined to make this as clear as the english language allows. i just need time to type everything and organize it, everyday i try to get somethin in. just bear with me

This post has been edited by lake1069: Feb 25, 2006 - 4:24 PM
post Feb 25, 2006 - 10:21 PM
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TrdKing

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we should get one solid copy for all to edit and adjust

I have put a motor in my car and changed a tranny in another celica and it is not as time consuming and hard as you think.

I could probably tell you what bolts you need to take out and what size they are.
post Feb 26, 2006 - 12:52 PM
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lake1069

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QUOTE(TrdKing @ Feb 26, 2006 - 3:21 AM) [snapback]399738[/snapback]

we should get one solid copy for all to edit and adjust

I have put a motor in my car and changed a tranny in another celica and it is not as time consuming and hard as you think.

I could probably tell you what bolts you need to take out and what size they are.


if you have a lift so that the car is over ur head than it wont be too hard because things can be seen clearly and have the freedom to move around with no problems, and with experience of course it wont be as time consuming. but for someone with no experience im sure it can turn into a nightmare. after i finish ill put up a copy so that it could be double checked and edited.
post Feb 26, 2006 - 1:06 PM
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TrdKing

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the motor i did with a lift and the tranny without

the majority of the work is done from the top

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