Oil Type?, what type is best |
Oil Type?, what type is best |
Mar 8, 2006 - 1:01 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Dec 15, '05 From UK - norfolk Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
i haven't changed my oil since i bought my car a while ago so i think i'd better give it a service. Just wondering what the best type to use is ie. synthetic, semi synthetic or a good quality non synthetic? cheers
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Mar 8, 2006 - 1:11 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Feb 10, '03 From Connecticut Currently Offline Reputation: 11 (100%) |
How many miles have put on the car since you bought it? Thats a scary.
How many miles are on the car? For higher mileage cars I'd recommend a semi- to full synthetic, 10W-30 is the average. If its cold maybe a 5w-30 or maybe even 5w-20. -------------------- |
Mar 18, 2006 - 9:36 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Dec 15, '05 From UK - norfolk Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
only about 400miles. its done about 90,000 miles so iguess semi would be best then?
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Mar 20, 2006 - 12:42 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Nov 9, '03 From Dayton, OH Currently Offline Reputation: 2 (100%) |
walmart supertech oil is just fine for our cars
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Mar 20, 2006 - 4:40 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Jun 1, '03 From WV Currently Offline Reputation: 2 (100%) |
Mobil 1 10w-30 is the best. I did a lot of research at one point to figure that out. I didn't save any of it, but if you do a search I'm confident that you will come to the same conclusion. It's the best for the money. Racing oils are better, but cost significantly more.
-------------------- Live Free, Be Happy
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Mar 20, 2006 - 5:06 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Mar 12, '05 From ATL, Georgia Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
i use Castrol 10W-30 and it works perfect
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Mar 20, 2006 - 6:18 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Dec 27, '03 From Nor Cal Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
personally... oil is oil. All the same stuff. The only kicker is synthetics... but for the most part... mineral oil is mineral oil. The thing is... keep it changed and clean... and within specs. I usually run 10W40
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1995 AT200 Celica ST: stocked out daily driver... 1984 AE86 Corolla GT-SR5: silvertop 20V 4AGE project car jacked up with goodies... 1991 SW2x MR2 n/a: bare bones hardtop model soon to be... |
Mar 21, 2006 - 12:19 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Mar 9, '05 From Oakland, Cali Currently Offline Reputation: 46 (100%) |
synthetic is good if ur driving more highway....regualr castrol, pennzoil, etc.. is good for normal stop n go driving....and depending on your mileage...the more miles u have the more wear n tera u have in yoru motor....on a new motor a thinner oil like 5w-20/30 works best....and the more miles u pack in yoru motor the higher u go....i refer my customers below 75k miles 5w-20/30....75k+ miles 10w-30 and 10w-40 during the winter......170k+ miles 20w-50.....
got that info from where i work at - ADVANCE i might be wrong..but its jus a selling point in my shoes....idk bout u guys -------------------- |
Mar 21, 2006 - 1:14 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Jan 13, '06 Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
QUOTE(Supersprynt @ Mar 8, 2006 - 12:11 PM) [snapback]404610[/snapback] For higher mileage cars I'd recommend a semi- to full synthetic, 10W-30 is the average. cars switching to synthetic at higher mileage is more likely for a leak to pop up. |
Mar 21, 2006 - 1:28 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Mar 11, '06 From Way South Chicago Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
QUOTE(southwest2118 @ Mar 21, 2006 - 1:14 AM) [snapback]410816[/snapback] QUOTE(Supersprynt @ Mar 8, 2006 - 12:11 PM) [snapback]404610[/snapback] For higher mileage cars I'd recommend a semi- to full synthetic, 10W-30 is the average. cars switching to synthetic at higher mileage is more likely for a leak to pop up. false, its just a myth. i switched to syn at 115k and my leaky valve seals went away after i switched. if you get a leak after switching to syn you were going to get a leak anyways, wether you switched or not. -------------------- |
Mar 21, 2006 - 1:38 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Jan 17, '04 From Illinois Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
QUOTE(Bitter @ Mar 21, 2006 - 12:28 AM) [snapback]410823[/snapback] QUOTE(southwest2118 @ Mar 21, 2006 - 1:14 AM) [snapback]410816[/snapback] QUOTE(Supersprynt @ Mar 8, 2006 - 12:11 PM) [snapback]404610[/snapback] For higher mileage cars I'd recommend a semi- to full synthetic, 10W-30 is the average. cars switching to synthetic at higher mileage is more likely for a leak to pop up. false, its just a myth. i switched to syn at 115k and my leaky valve seals went away after i switched. if you get a leak after switching to syn you were going to get a leak anyways, wether you switched or not. You got any proof its a myth? I have been told this by some VERY reputable people and believe it to be the case. -------------------- QUOTE(lagos @ Jul 10, 2006 - 1:55 PM) [snapback]454118[/snapback] i know your trying to do the right thing for your motor, but this is one of those times where you should just trust the guys who have had their swaps for a while and have done a ton of research into this. |
Mar 21, 2006 - 1:52 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Mar 11, '06 From Way South Chicago Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
its a myth thats been passed down from person to person for soo long that its hard to break the cycle.
its just about IMPOSSIBLE to find reliable and truthful information about oil on the internet due to extreme amounts of advertising put into pages and reviews by mobil and amsoil and other companies. if i could find a true unbiased non advertising article i would link it, but ive heard from many people that are REALLY in the know (dealer techs with 30+ years working in the automotive feild and ASE certified master techs) that switching to synthetic doesnt increase your chances of an oil leak anymore than the reason the sky is blue is because of all the water an old engine will leak oil no matter what you do, it just happens and its such a hard thing to scientifically study. just because mr x has an oil burning issue at 180k miles and he switched to synthetic and now it blows blue smoke doesnt mean its because of the oil, it could be countless other things. hell it could be because the synthetic cleaned away the varnish and sludge that was holding the engine together :lol: -------------------- |
Mar 21, 2006 - 2:27 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Mar 25, '05 From Sydney, Australia Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
I use Castrol Formula R 5w/30 in my car.
I'm happy with it -------------------- 98 ST204 ZR - Black Beauty - Roaming the streets of Sydney 73 TA22 LT - Tiffany Blue - Mint Classic Weekend Cruiser 75 TA22 LT - Snow White - Mint Classic Weekend Cruiser 77 RA28 LT - Flubber Green - Mint Classic Weekend Cruiser 94 MX-5 NA8 Clubman - Red Racer - Looking for corners WIP Project: 69 RT40 Corona, 2nd WIP Project: 66 RT40 1600s Corona 86 Corona RT142 - Daily Driver 6GC 4 Life Baby!!! |
Mar 21, 2006 - 3:18 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Jan 17, '04 From Illinois Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
QUOTE(Bitter @ Mar 21, 2006 - 12:52 AM) [snapback]410835[/snapback] hell it could be because the synthetic cleaned away the varnish and sludge that was holding the engine together :lol: You laugh at this but the cleaning effects of synthetic and its ability to break down sludge that has plugged spots where oil would leak is PRECISELY the reason I understand why people sometimes develop a leak after switching to synthetic on a high milage engine. -------------------- QUOTE(lagos @ Jul 10, 2006 - 1:55 PM) [snapback]454118[/snapback] i know your trying to do the right thing for your motor, but this is one of those times where you should just trust the guys who have had their swaps for a while and have done a ton of research into this. |
Mar 21, 2006 - 3:33 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Jan 13, '06 Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
guys its not a myth.
i don't want to get into a argument so lets just leave it as its not a myth.... think about it. its simple the atoms of the synthetic oil moves at a velocity that is subject to heat. so if you multiply the mass of the nucleus of the atom by the gravitational pull of the moon divided that by 57 take newton's First Law witch states that an object will remain at rest or in uniform motion in a straight line unless acted upon by an external force. |
Mar 21, 2006 - 5:11 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Mar 19, '06 From Rocklin, CA Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
My car:
230,000+ miles. Used dino (non-synthetic) oil all her life. She runs fine - no leaks. ~J~ |
Mar 21, 2006 - 11:27 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Jan 17, '04 From Illinois Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
QUOTE(southwest2118 @ Mar 21, 2006 - 2:33 AM) [snapback]410856[/snapback] guys its not a myth. i don't want to get into a argument so lets just leave it as its not a myth.... think about it. its simple the atoms of the synthetic oil moves at a velocity that is subject to heat. so if you multiply the mass of the nucleus of the atom by the gravitational pull of the moon divided that by 57 take newton's First Law witch states that an object will remain at rest or in uniform motion in a straight line unless acted upon by an external force. -------------------- QUOTE(lagos @ Jul 10, 2006 - 1:55 PM) [snapback]454118[/snapback] i know your trying to do the right thing for your motor, but this is one of those times where you should just trust the guys who have had their swaps for a while and have done a ton of research into this. |
Mar 21, 2006 - 12:04 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Mar 11, '06 From Way South Chicago Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
QUOTE(jgreening @ Mar 21, 2006 - 3:18 AM) [snapback]410852[/snapback] QUOTE(Bitter @ Mar 21, 2006 - 12:52 AM) [snapback]410835[/snapback] hell it could be because the synthetic cleaned away the varnish and sludge that was holding the engine together :lol: You laugh at this but the cleaning effects of synthetic and its ability to break down sludge that has plugged spots where oil would leak is PRECISELY the reason I understand why people sometimes develop a leak after switching to synthetic on a high milage engine. if the engine was that BADLY plugged with sludge and varnish then it is probably already on its last legs and could start leaking/burning at any minute. it is a myth! i switched and my leaky valve seals went away! i was using penzoil before and on startup after the car sat for 8 hours or more i would puff out some oil. now after i switched to synthetic it got worse for about a month and then went away. hell its not even the OIL itself thats what matters here, its the additive package. mobil one isnt a synthetic base oil anyways, its a PAO base oil. its organic and made from some type of seed if i remember correctly. its the ADDITIVES that are sythetic in it, those synthetic additives last longer and that pao base oil is more temprature resistant and has a more uniform flow rate. it may still be organic but its more refined than an engine oil made from petroleum. -------------------- |
Mar 21, 2006 - 12:31 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Jun 1, '03 From WV Currently Offline Reputation: 2 (100%) |
QUOTE(jgreening @ Mar 21, 2006 - 3:18 AM) [snapback]410852[/snapback] QUOTE(Bitter @ Mar 21, 2006 - 12:52 AM) [snapback]410835[/snapback] hell it could be because the synthetic cleaned away the varnish and sludge that was holding the engine together :lol: You laugh at this but the cleaning effects of synthetic and its ability to break down sludge that has plugged spots where oil would leak is PRECISELY the reason I understand why people sometimes develop a leak after switching to synthetic on a high milage engine. This is also exactly why you need to switch you oil at about 500 and then 1000 then 1500, after switching. That slug it breaks loose can plug up your system and cause you to have no oil. This is very important. Synthetic oil lubricates a lot better than regular oils, and it cleans. Anything that cleans and breaks up slug will undoubtedly have the ability to assist in the engine leaking. I would rather have a car leak on synthetic than not leak on regular. At least you know it's clean. btw, it's Castrol that has an organic base. But it still works like a synthetic, and pretty much is one. I've never heard that Mobil one is like that, but if it is, I don't think that really matters. It's all about how it preforms. -------------------- Live Free, Be Happy
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Mar 21, 2006 - 12:36 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Jan 17, '04 From Illinois Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
QUOTE(Bigmeanbulldog55 @ Mar 21, 2006 - 11:31 AM) [snapback]410940[/snapback] QUOTE(jgreening @ Mar 21, 2006 - 3:18 AM) [snapback]410852[/snapback] QUOTE(Bitter @ Mar 21, 2006 - 12:52 AM) [snapback]410835[/snapback] hell it could be because the synthetic cleaned away the varnish and sludge that was holding the engine together :lol: You laugh at this but the cleaning effects of synthetic and its ability to break down sludge that has plugged spots where oil would leak is PRECISELY the reason I understand why people sometimes develop a leak after switching to synthetic on a high milage engine. This is also exactly why you need to switch you oil at about 500 and then 1000 then 1500, after switching. That slug it breaks loose can plug up your system and cause you to have no oil. This is very important. Synthetic oil lubricates a lot better than regular oils, and it cleans. Anything that cleans and breaks up slug will undoubtedly have the ability to assist in the engine leaking. I would rather have a car leak on synthetic than not leak on regular. At least you know it's clean. I agree with the bulldog. You got any proof Bitter? Hook me up with a link. -------------------- QUOTE(lagos @ Jul 10, 2006 - 1:55 PM) [snapback]454118[/snapback] i know your trying to do the right thing for your motor, but this is one of those times where you should just trust the guys who have had their swaps for a while and have done a ton of research into this. |
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