Im Running Out of cash Options

[trey_135]

ok in order for all to understand my problem it mite be a bit of a story so about a month ago my car started dying out of nowhere just anytime really no rime or reason i took it to the toyota dealership got charge 270 dollars for them to say they dont know what it is and cant help took it to a local import shop they couldnt get it to die and i had them replace the distributor and the tps so i spent 600 dollars there i drive it home fine and around for about a day alright and now it dies ever 5 minitutes its idleing at 1000 even and is flutering alot bettww 900 and 1100 i press the gas hard and it cuts out horidly and it never did that before drives fine sometimes it will get jump like its loosings something so i have alot of questions.


1995 Toyota Celica Gt 2.2l 5-sfe

1. does anyone know how do get ahold of a ODB 1 scanner with my year of car

my maybe horrid assumtions is maybe the camry of the mr2 that have the 5sfe engine would work but i really dont know

2 what is gods name could be causing this i had it scaned buit all they told me was ignitions system

could it be the coil god i hope not the igniter or another sensor lie the egr or something

3 is it possible to put and ecu from a 96 into my car and change it from the obd1 to an obd 2

so way to promising to ever happen but had to ask

i am out of idea and almost oout of patiens i love my car its been my dream since the 6 grade and i finaly got one so anyone with anyidea out the please fel free to comit i need all the help i can get

[WannabeGT4]

Follow the instructions here:

http://www.6gc.net/index.php?action=howto&itu=88

then post what code you're getting.

[lilsteeg]

replace your feul pump

[Rayme]

I had a similar problem with my 90 GT, is was the coolant temperature sensor...

If you want to check it out, when the car is hot, unplug the sensor(you'll get a check engine light and the ECU will run the default fuel map which would be for a warm engine), if you dont stall, its probably what's wrong.

But that's just one of the things you should check!

[morbiddelusions]

Yeah it sounds fuel related to me.
I would try checking the coolant temp sensor too and if not then i would try
changing the fule filter too i had a blazer that was dying at random times
but would allways start back up.
It would die when it was hot outside more than if it was cold
i ended up changeing the fuel pum and it has been fine ever since.
also does it seem to be worse if you are low on gas? E.G less than a quarter tank if so
i would go with the fuel pump
but if the engine light is on find out what code has been stored first
good luck.

[trey_135]

thats a good point guys ik never thought the coolant temp sensor and it does do it more when im on low fuel i never thought of it until u brought it up and when i gave it to the auto shops it alway had more then 3/4 of a tank that mite be y it wouldnt die ill check that sensor tomarow god i hope its one of theese that igniter is like 400 dollars and i dont have that kinda change

[morbiddelusions]

yeah i wouldn't go with the igniter unless it was for sure the problem.
i drove my blazer for a year like that changed every senor
and the injectors and it stiill did it
then the only thing left was the f/p and what do you know
that was horrible i could have saved sooo much if i changed the fuel pump first.
electrical gremlins suck and can be a pain to figure out but good luck.

[Supersprynt]

First dont jump on the igniter it doesnt really sound like an igniter. Second dont buy it new, there are alot of people parting out cars on the site, look for a used one.

No you cant switch to OBDII.

[97GTinKC]

I have a scanner, if you dont get it worked out, I'm not all that far away from Ottawa,,,email me.

[trey_135]

ok guys i got an update i did the paperclip trick wow i wish i would have known that one a while back would have saved me 140 bucks in diagnostitrs charges i got the nember 31 back and if im not mistaken plz correct me it is the map sensor on my car right feedbaks anyone?

[WannabeGT4]

Your map sensor is on the passenger side of your car's firewall... it will be right next to where the engine's wiring harness enters the vehicle. Make sure the plug is securely connected and that the vacuum line is plugged into the map sensor and into the intake manifold... You should have a vacuum digram on the driverside of your firewall to show you exactly how it's supposed to be routed.

You can also test the MAP sensor via the methods described in the BGBs:

http://www.celicatech.com/imagearchive/bgb...ent%20tests.pdf

[celicarus]

ok guys i got an update i did the paperclip trick wow i wish i would have known that one a while back would have saved me 140 bucks in diagnostitrs charges i got the nember 31 back and if im not mistaken plz correct me it is the map sensor on my car right feedbaks anyone?

had same problem 1.5 yrs ago -- and it was the map sensor causing my problem - got it from junk yard for $50 -