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> swap officially finished! (but still has minor probs), i just drove it.. WOOOO HOOO!
post May 6, 2006 - 6:31 PM
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brianforster

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ok guys, i consider my swap FINISHED now because i just drove it around the block, however there are some minor problems i noticed during the test drive

first it idled about 1800 rpms, then after driving it it jumped up to 3000

my boost gauge reads 20 vac at idle so i assume no vacuum leaks

my power steering doesnt work, this confuses me because everything is hooked up

its hard to get it into gear, in fact when i first started it it would not go into gear, then it ended up going into reverse with some force (no grinding though) the car would lurch forward when trying to go into first and reverse when trying to go into reverse. my friend told me to re-bleed the clutch but before i went to do that i went for one more try and it finally went in, the shifting seems to get smoother the more i play with it so maybe it has something to do with the tranny being sitting bone dry for the past few months?

at idle my motor shakes a bit, and by a bit i mean that even with my not so vast experience with cars i know it should not do this.

btw tomorrow i will have pics and vids of everything, and ill start a before and after thread!

edit: jeff, how do you drive withot power steering man, i could hardly reverse into the driveway!

This post has been edited by brianforster: May 6, 2006 - 6:34 PM
post May 6, 2006 - 7:49 PM
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playr158



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make sure your powersteering lines are in the right direction wink.gif
but glad to hear you got her running around the block!
post May 6, 2006 - 7:57 PM
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brianforster

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power steering is a leak in the high pressure line, right before dark i added more fluid and it shot out of the pressure line everywhere! ahh

another thing is does the ST radiator have a coolant temp sensor? if so its definitly not in the same spot as the GT radiator cause we looked at chuckys and found where it went and there was no spot for it on my radiator or radiator fans, so now i just have a plug coming out of that front relay box doing nothing, what should i do with it, and do i need it?
post May 6, 2006 - 9:04 PM
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brianforster

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update: on a cold start it idles at about 2000 then slowly goes up to 3000 when its warmed up.

also when turning the car off it kind of shakes towards the end, im not sure if this is normal, it feels like the car feels when it stalls but this is just turning it off.

ive read up about high idles but i havent heard of any that get worse as the car warms up

also if you rev it up to like 3k it takes a really long time to get back down to the idle.

i think all these things might be related im just confused as to what they could all mean..
frown.gif
post May 6, 2006 - 9:20 PM
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lagos



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hey...noticed you called... i was out and didnt have my cell...

QUOTE
update: on a cold start it idles at about 2000 then slowly goes up to 3000 when its warmed up.


check your throttle cable. make sure its not stuck on anything . if all that checks out, bust out a timing light and check the timing. make sure you do it just like the bgb states.


QUOTE
also when turning the car off it kind of shakes towards the end, im not sure if this is normal, it feels like the car feels when it stalls but this is just turning it off.


any kind of shaking when starting or turning the motor mounts off is a result of warn motor mounts.

QUOTE
also if you rev it up to like 3k it takes a really long time to get back down to the idle.


sounds like a problem with the cable. its getting stuck or cant smoothly move .



congrads on your 1st test drive!


--------------------
15PSI - 30MPG - Megasquirt Tuned
post May 6, 2006 - 9:35 PM
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brianforster

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front and rear mounts are new though and those are the important ones do you think the other 2 could cause that
post May 6, 2006 - 9:38 PM
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lagos



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if they are new, then they should be ok. get a vid of it, and i can tell you if what you are seeing is normal or not. you sure if bolted every mount in ?

the motor also could be starting up rought and shaking a bit becasue it hasnt been run in a long time. not to mention that its idleing at 3 grand when it gets shut off....so that might make it shake a bit too.


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post May 6, 2006 - 9:46 PM
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brianforster

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also i found out the st radiator does not have a coolant temp sensor, and some threads about high idles have mentioned the coolant temp sensor.. but i know defgeph runs st radiator and im sure he doesnt idle at 3000 rpms..

tomorrow i think im going to get as much 93 octane gas i can find and mix it with the 4 month old 87 that was in the tank before, and i will put seafoam in the crankcase and suck it up through a vacuum line, let the car sit and start it up (let it smoke, etc etc) and see where im at after that.
post May 6, 2006 - 9:50 PM
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bigal004321



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Nice job with the swap,,and congrats on the first test drive!...I cant wait to get my swap done now.

Bigal

PS good luck with all the kinks you have!


--------------------
1994 celica GT.....3sgte in a month! all helpers are welcome!!! i live in Plattsburgh, NY.

post May 6, 2006 - 9:53 PM
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lagos



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QUOTE(brianforster @ May 6, 2006 - 10:46 PM) [snapback]430949[/snapback]

also i found out the st radiator does not have a coolant temp sensor, and some threads about high idles have mentioned the coolant temp sensor.. but i know defgeph runs st radiator and im sure he doesnt idle at 3000 rpms..

tomorrow i think im going to get as much 93 octane gas i can find and mix it with the 4 month old 87 that was in the tank before, and i will put seafoam in the crankcase and suck it up through a vacuum line, let the car sit and start it up (let it smoke, etc etc) and see where im at after that.




there are 2 coolant temp sensors. the one that can give you a funny idle is on your motor (drivers side, green sensor) . the radiators coolant temp sensor ( the one your missing) has nothing to do with idle...only controls the radiator fans.


dont use any seafoam. its a fresh rebuild (or so they say) and it hasnt run in a while. just start it up a few times during the day and let it idle and come up to temp. the more u start it up, the better it should start to sound and run. seafoam is something you might want to try after a few months of driving.

This post has been edited by lagos: May 6, 2006 - 9:55 PM


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post May 6, 2006 - 11:38 PM
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Defgeph



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Congrats man. You get used to no power steering.
Just take your time working all the bugs out. You'll get it.


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I will return one day.
post May 7, 2006 - 12:25 AM
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x_itchy_b_x



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congrats man!


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post May 7, 2006 - 3:28 AM
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CelicaZR



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Congrat man smile.gif
You've definitely come a long way
from when the car started to now.


--------------------


98 ST204 ZR - Black Beauty - Roaming the streets of Sydney
73 TA22 LT - Tiffany Blue - Mint Classic Weekend Cruiser
75 TA22 LT - Snow White - Mint Classic Weekend Cruiser
77 RA28 LT - Flubber Green - Mint Classic Weekend Cruiser
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WIP Project: 69 RT40 Corona, 2nd WIP Project: 66 RT40 1600s Corona
86 Corona RT142 - Daily Driver

6GC 4 Life Baby!!!
post May 7, 2006 - 3:09 PM
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brianforster

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well today i put better gas in it and got some vids/pics (chucky will be workin on those tonight) it doesnt shake at idle anymore, and im pretty sure it doesnt jump up to 3000 rpms when warm anymore, but it still idles at like 1800-2200 and i have no idea why..
post May 7, 2006 - 3:25 PM
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Chanh55

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QUOTE(brianforster @ May 7, 2006 - 1:09 PM) [snapback]431148[/snapback]

well today i put better gas in it and got some vids/pics (chucky will be workin on those tonight) it doesnt shake at idle anymore, and im pretty sure it doesnt jump up to 3000 rpms when warm anymore, but it still idles at like 1800-2200 and i have no idea why..


There's a little flat head screw you can adjust on the throttle to adjust the idle. Try tightening that. Also, make sure the throttle isn't stuck on something like Lagos said. For me I had a little rubber thing that got stuck everytime I stepped on the gas, so the cable kept getting stuck.

BTW congrats on your swap. thumbsup.gif
post May 7, 2006 - 3:40 PM
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brianforster

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can someone get me a pic of this screw? because on mine, i just have a very small nut at the bottom end of the throttle that has like a threaded rod going through it and it looks like if you turn it, it will hold push the rod out more and hold the throttle open, but right now its all the way screwed out so that the screw isnt touching the throttle and when the pedal is depressed the throttle is closing all the way
post May 7, 2006 - 3:44 PM
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brianforster

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also with the hood down after like 5 min of running the hood gets very very ver hot (when i sprayed the car down the water steamed off)

it gets hottest right over the tubular manifold

i dont think that is normal, what could that be from?
post May 7, 2006 - 3:49 PM
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Chanh55

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QUOTE(brianforster @ May 7, 2006 - 1:40 PM) [snapback]431155[/snapback]

can someone get me a pic of this screw? because on mine, i just have a very small nut at the bottom end of the throttle that has like a threaded rod going through it and it looks like if you turn it, it will hold push the rod out more and hold the throttle open, but right now its all the way screwed out so that the screw isnt touching the throttle and when the pedal is depressed the throttle is closing all the way


Sorry I meant the Intake Manifold. kindasad.gif
Look at the Intake Manifold for that screw. Should be on the left side.
post May 7, 2006 - 5:20 PM
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bojangles_8686



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Ok here are the pics and videos from today....

IPB Image
IPB Image
IPB Image

And here are the videos. I made a video with everything including music and titles but it is a little over 50MB because I dont know how to compress it. If anybody can help me out with that let me know.

IPB Image

I have 2 other videos, i will upload those later.


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post May 7, 2006 - 5:52 PM
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jcbass7



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not sure if this would be true, but maybe the hood is getting so hot because the heat shield over the exhaust half of the turbo is missing?

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