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> ebay 7afe header (on a corolla), pics
post May 23, 2006 - 5:24 PM
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Bitter

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its on.

i didnt drive it much, it was getting dark and theres no where near by where i feel safe zooming around much. it seems to have lessened the fade at the end of the upper rpms, im not sure if its because ive been soo light footed with the right pedal, but it does feel faster when i plant it. it looks soooo out of place with my dingy engine tho, oh well! its turning a nice sandy color right now and is still shiny, i made sure to wash it down with brake cleaner to remove any oils and to wipe it down so finger prints wouldnt become permanent.


the old exhaust removal was ALOT easier than i anticipated. 1st i loosened everything that i could loosen, then ground the heads off the midpipe to cat flange (the bolts/nuts had rusted to one peice with the flange and themselves). once the heads were cut off the rest of the bolt just dropped right out and the flanges came right apart! the rest of the hardware came off easily, except the stock midpipe to manfold nuts. i had to put my electric impact gun on those to get them loose. the manifold to head nuts were all easy except for the one behind the alternator, you need to remove the alternator tensioner assembly from under it and swing the alternator up to get at that nut with a box end 14mm wrench. then you can use the open end once its broken loose. now is a good time to replace the alterator belt since you just took it off to swing the alternator up out of the way. once the stock stuff is off just swap the new into place with the correct gaskets (mine came with gaskets, tho the manifold to head gasket was poorly fit, its flat now but i had to double the torque to 50lb/ft to get the gasket to push flat). everything else i just tightened till it felt tight then reinstalled the alternator with the new belt, tensioned the belt, double checked everything, wiped it down with brake clean and fired it up.

at idle it sounds pretty much the same, save for just a little bit of a hollow whistle (think wind through a window) at the tail pipe. when the engine is revved it sounds a little more "racey" with no rasp (atleast none i could hear). for $100 i dont feel dissappointed yet, im going to pull my PCM fuse so that it can re-learn the fuel trims with the new oxygen sensor and make any adjustments in relation to the change in exhaust flow. i'll track my fuel mileage and see if the header made it more or less. i have a 150 mile drive friday and back on sunday to track highway mileage.





IPB Image

hmm sort of close to the alternator and wires, i wonder if thats going to cause problems? well better safe than sorry.

IPB Image

yes, it looks horrible. but it was free, quick, and easy. took less than 15 minutes to think up, make, and install and could potentially save my alternator. the sheild is still hot to the touch (very hot!) but doesnt feel like it radiates out as much heat as the open runner next to it.


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post May 23, 2006 - 9:34 PM
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Batman722



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it will add some pep to the 7a definatly thumbsup.gif

good luck changing that oil filter wink.gif


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post May 23, 2006 - 10:17 PM
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i reach from underneath to do the oil filter. theres clearance between the runner and filter tho it doesnt look like it in the picture, it runs above where the filter is wink.gif


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post May 24, 2006 - 12:26 AM
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http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Stainless-S...itemZ8067668812

another one on ebay from the same seller i got mine for real cheap.


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post May 24, 2006 - 1:13 PM
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QUOTE(Batman722 @ May 23, 2006 - 9:34 PM) [snapback]437306[/snapback]

it will add some pep to the 7a definatly thumbsup.gif

i think it may have, i can consistantly chirp tire on my street from a brake torque when i couldnt before. theres a little rasp (to me atleast), but it sounds like a normal 4 cylinder header. maybe rasp isnt even the right word since its not coming from the flex or the tail pipe, more like the stainless transmits the sound of the engine more since its thinner.


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post May 25, 2006 - 3:30 AM
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malpaso



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Do you think the same header will fit to 7afe in celica?


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post May 25, 2006 - 11:39 AM
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it will with some minor modification, all you need is a flanged peice of pipe to go from where the midpipe ends and your cat flange. you'll understand when its on the car.


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post May 25, 2006 - 12:20 PM
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QUOTE(Bitter @ May 24, 2006 - 1:13 PM) [snapback]437511[/snapback]

i think it may have, i can consistantly chirp tire on my street from a brake torque


what? ur car is auto? or 5-spd?

This post has been edited by pure_dx: May 25, 2006 - 12:23 PM
post May 25, 2006 - 1:18 PM
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Bitter

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auto with 120K miles and 165psi compression across all 4 cylinders. deleted intake snorkel, K&N air filter, the timing advanved 5 degrees from base (15btdc now vs 10btdc stock), running 89 octane fuel, and now with the header.

my street is VERY grippy asphalt. its at that point where its still flat and smooth but the tar has been worn off the surface and theres no loose gravel on it. just exposed stone, i get the best dry traction of just about anywhere.

This post has been edited by Bitter: May 25, 2006 - 1:21 PM


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post May 26, 2006 - 6:39 AM
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driving yesterday i noticed increased rasp, to the point where it bothers me some. i'll hunt its source (rule out cracks or gasket leaks) and try to fix it.

anyone have a good way to quiet rasp from a crapy flex sexction other then a better flex section? i was thinking i could wrap something heat resistant around it to muffle its rasp but still let it flex a little. i'll see how it does on my 2 houe drive.


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