Corrosion has destroyed my brake lines |
Corrosion has destroyed my brake lines |
May 30, 2006 - 12:39 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Jun 28, '05 From MB, Canada Currently Offline Reputation: 1 (100%) |
alright, so I'm in a pickle. It seems my brake lines (the hard lines on the bottom of the chassis, not the rubber hoses) have rusted through and are leaking brake fluid all over the damn place. This sucks because i did not budget for this. And because my car has no pressure in the lines now and effectively has no braking power. I need to fix this ASAP, the search ii did only yeilded results for replacing the rubber hoses, i need the whole prebent tubing, preferably in braided stainless steel to preevnt this from happening again. Where is the cheapest i can get this? and whats the price difference between an oem steel replacement and the stainless steel. I'm having a tough time finding this out on my own. Thanks.
-Shawn This post has been edited by Tech9ine: May 30, 2006 - 2:58 PM |
May 30, 2006 - 2:19 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Feb 19, '04 From austin tx Currently Offline Reputation: 1 (100%) |
Go to napa and tell them you've got a toyota; they have hard lines and hardware and its not too expensive at all. You can get a brake line bender there as well.. its only a couple of bucks and makes things easy. When installing just disconnect and follow the old lines.. Im not sure if you'll be able to find pre-bent lines, or if it would even be possible to install them entirely pre-bent. have fun good luck
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May 30, 2006 - 2:26 PM |
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Moderator Joined Oct 1, '02 From fall river, ma Currently Offline Reputation: 13 (100%) |
toyota still carries the hardlines.
batman722 just bought the 2 lines for the rear, IIRC, they were under 100$ for both. -------------------- Former Team 5SFTE pro member ;)
13.6@108MPH, 5SFTE Powered |
May 30, 2006 - 4:23 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Mar 8, '04 From Newport, RI Currently Offline Reputation: 63 (99%) |
yea I did.
there are 2 brake lines (obviously) and 3 fuel lines that run under the car protected by black plastic covers. You need to get the car in the air, and find where the leak is comming from. Only one of my lines was leaking (rusted through) where the are held to the body with metal clips (the clips rust out and kills the lines). remove the plastic cover where the leak is (10mm plastic bolts) and see which line it is that is bad. If it is the line closest to the passenger side of the car it is you DRIVER's side rear line (they cross). I figured to buy both lines from toyota and replace them (one was $30 and the other was $40) I replaced the broken one but to replace the other I would need to fully drop the gas tank. I got away will only lowering the tank about 2-3 inches to replace the broken line, I was lucky it wasn't the other side (pass side rear) - plus I broke the bleeder on that side off - damn rust if I had to do it over again, I would just buy some generic lines and fittings and patch it up. -------------------- |
May 30, 2006 - 4:32 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Jun 28, '05 From MB, Canada Currently Offline Reputation: 1 (100%) |
Yeah it looked like both my lines were leaking near that metal clip. So batman you figure its easier to just run generic lines and bend them as you go?
This post has been edited by Tech9ine: May 30, 2006 - 4:33 PM |
May 30, 2006 - 4:45 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Mar 8, '04 From Newport, RI Currently Offline Reputation: 63 (99%) |
first, get the plastic off and check the lines, make sure it is one or both.
you would only need about 8" of new line for each one, the fittings, also you need to cut the old lines clean (small pipe cutter) and you need to flare the old lines with the fittings on them. Then put them together tight and bleed the rears. Just don't snap the bleeders off, if you do, then you are screwed. a how-to flare a brake line http://robrobinette.com/flare_brake_line.htm -------------------- |
May 30, 2006 - 5:27 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Mar 29, '06 From Hull, UK Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
I always thought they were made of copper? I'm sure demon tweeks used to sell copper brake lines.
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May 30, 2006 - 9:14 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Jun 28, '05 From MB, Canada Currently Offline Reputation: 1 (100%) |
QUOTE(Batman722 @ May 30, 2006 - 4:45 PM) [snapback]439465[/snapback] first, get the plastic off and check the lines, make sure it is one or both. you would only need about 8" of new line for each one, the fittings, also you need to cut the old lines clean (small pipe cutter) and you need to flare the old lines with the fittings on them. Then put them together tight and bleed the rears. Just don't snap the bleeders off, if you do, then you are screwed. a how-to flare a brake line http://robrobinette.com/flare_brake_line.htm So your saying chop out the part that is rusted through and replace just an 8 inch section, where its leaking? I'm not sure if thats possible, I've got 6 lines underneath, and two are leaking break fluid. I took the plastic off and the entire line has rust and corrosion all over it from the front of the car to where it connnects to the rubber hoses, if i try to cut it anywhere, it might just crumble to dust, its in rough shape. This post has been edited by Tech9ine: May 30, 2006 - 9:18 PM |
May 31, 2006 - 1:57 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Mar 29, '06 From Hull, UK Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
If you think you can do it then I'd replace the full lot. Its something less to worry about in future then isn't it.
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May 31, 2006 - 8:49 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Mar 8, '04 From Newport, RI Currently Offline Reputation: 63 (99%) |
QUOTE(Tech9ine @ May 30, 2006 - 10:14 PM) [snapback]439560[/snapback] So your saying chop out the part that is rusted through and replace just an 8 inch section, where its leaking? I'm not sure if thats possible, I've got 6 lines underneath, and two are leaking break fluid. I took the plastic off and the entire line has rust and corrosion all over it from the front of the car to where it connnects to the rubber hoses, if i try to cut it anywhere, it might just crumble to dust, its in rough shape. I guess I was lucky then. Yes that's what I was saying...but in your case it would be best to replace both line with new ones from Toyota. Less than $100 for the lines and you would need a garage to do all the work yourself or take it somewhere. You will need to disconnect the fuel pump and drop the tank. Then you will have easy access to replace the lines. I'm sorry. -------------------- |
May 31, 2006 - 9:35 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Jun 28, '05 From MB, Canada Currently Offline Reputation: 1 (100%) |
oi! whata headache, thanks for your help guys, I'm very grateful. What size break line should i buy? my chiltons guide is not with me at the moment...
This post has been edited by Tech9ine: May 31, 2006 - 2:02 PM |
Jun 1, 2006 - 3:54 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Mar 29, '06 From Hull, UK Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
I think normally hard lines are about 6 - 8 mm?
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Jun 1, 2006 - 2:59 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Jun 28, '05 From MB, Canada Currently Offline Reputation: 1 (100%) |
QUOTE(vsideboy @ Jun 1, 2006 - 3:54 AM) [snapback]440036[/snapback] I think normally hard lines are about 6 - 8 mm? can anyone confirm that? the Napa here has no parts for me at all. I'm hoping to just get some generic line and cut in like batman suggested, only from straight up in the engine bay where the line is not rusted anywhere near as bad. Is it 3/16 diameter possibly? |
Jun 2, 2006 - 8:30 AM |
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Moderator Joined Oct 1, '02 From fall river, ma Currently Offline Reputation: 13 (100%) |
im not sure of the size, but its definetly gonna be a metric size.
-------------------- Former Team 5SFTE pro member ;)
13.6@108MPH, 5SFTE Powered |
Jun 2, 2006 - 5:37 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Jun 28, '05 From MB, Canada Currently Offline Reputation: 1 (100%) |
Okay, i've found it out, they are 3/16 diameter, and they have a japanese double flare on them. Gonna do both lines tommorow. I just bought some pre-flared lines in 60" lengths. Should save me some time flaring and cutting.
This post has been edited by Tech9ine: Jun 2, 2006 - 5:49 PM |
Jun 3, 2006 - 8:53 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Jun 28, '05 From MB, Canada Currently Offline Reputation: 1 (100%) |
update: done, replaced both lines. Took a long time, but thats because neither me nor my friend had done it before. It worked out really well though. We used 5x 60" lengths, 3 couplers, and alot of brake fluid. Brakes are working again, and i no longer have to drive the mercury station wagon, wicked...
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Jun 3, 2006 - 10:02 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Mar 8, '04 From Newport, RI Currently Offline Reputation: 63 (99%) |
glad ot hear things worked out for you
did you replace both lines from the the gas tank to the back of the engine bay ? just strait lines ? This post has been edited by Batman722: Jun 3, 2006 - 10:03 PM -------------------- |
Jun 4, 2006 - 4:29 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Jun 28, '05 From MB, Canada Currently Offline Reputation: 1 (100%) |
QUOTE(Batman722 @ Jun 3, 2006 - 10:02 PM) [snapback]440799[/snapback] glad ot hear things worked out for you did you replace both lines from the the gas tank to the back of the engine bay ? just strait lines ? yep. Straight through, from the engine bay to the rear brakes. Took a long time, but it wasn't too hard. I didn't drop the tank, i just ran the lines around it instead. seems to be working out. I ghetto zip tied them so they wouldn't hang. But whatever, it works. I just bought 5 60" 3/16 straight lines pre-flared. copied the stock bends and fed them through, i had a friend help me out huge, (he took all the old lines out and did the first bit of the new lines while i was at work). but yeah, i still have those small pieces around the tank hanging, because its easier to juct leave them there, (non-functional), rather than take them out. |
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