Bad Response, slow take off Options

[Bitter]

sparkplugs, sorry. if the plugs are several ranges too hot it could cause knocking.

also pull the plugs and take some good pics of them, post them up. i can take a gander and give you an idea of whats going on in the chamber.

[94st_santos]

Yeah the first time changed my plugs, it was kind of wierd two of them were kind of gummy and more dirty and the other two weren't. At the moment I dont have those and might have thrown them away changed from regular Bosch to Platinum 2+ and now NGK iridium, hoping it would solve a problem.

This post has been edited by 94st_santos: Jul 2, 2006 - 8:20 PM

[Mike95ST]

mine's been doin somethin similiar i think, i pretty sure i need a new clutch, its a manual 95 ST, and when i even feather the peddle, the revs jump way up and i barely accelerate, its been getting alot worse to, cuz i jus was in a lil bit of stop and go, and i could barely get it from one light to even move, i had to let someone go around me, and it barely got into my garage.. its 123,000 on original clutch. even if im jus driving tho, and i hit the gas and have nothin to do with the clutch, it revs really high

This post has been edited by Mike95ST: Jul 2, 2006 - 10:36 PM

[LewFX]

uhh i thought he has an auto, no clutch needed

[Mike95ST]

he does, but i got a manual, and im not sure whats wrong, im pretty sure the clutch is just fried...ne help

This post has been edited by Mike95ST: Jul 3, 2006 - 12:57 AM

[axelrduvirage]

he does, but i got a manual, and im not sure whats wrong, im pretty sure the clutch is just fried...ne help

IMHO start a new thread. i can't give you any info 'cus i have an auto, sorry

[94st_santos]

I need to find some batteries for digi cam to post pics of sprk plugs but another problem I have been having is my car is shutting off and having trouble starting, I had to crank 3x to start this morning but after that it died twice haven't turned it on since, because I've been at work. Could the fuel pump be going out, Oh yeah whenever y'all put y'alls car in the on position before cranking can you hear the fuel pump come on?

[LewFX]

post a video of your engine bay as someone trys to start your car, anything visual will help, did u try the seafoam yet?

[94st_santos]

Here some pics of the spark plugs the first time I changed them.

post a video of your engine bay as someone trys to start your car, anything visual will help, did u try the seafoam yet?

No I haven't maybe I'll try to get some tomorrow morning, by the time I get back in to town, small town, from work the carquest is closed.

This post has been edited by 94st_santos: Jul 3, 2006 - 6:26 PM

[burneeed]

sounds like a trans problem... Does it slip at all? almost sounds like its the torque converter.... but honestly your never going to find out until you bring it to someone if you cannot dignose the problem yourself...

[94st_santos]

sounds like a trans problem... Does it slip at all? almost sounds like its the torque converter.... but honestly your never going to find out until you bring it to someone if you cannot dignose the problem yourself...

No it's not slipping, actually shifts very well for as many miles as it has. And the torque converter where is it at if some one could post a pic I'll check that. I'm starting to get that the problem might be the fuel pump if someone could see if they here it turn on before the crank that would help it might be a relay.

[Bitter]

they look normal, other than being well worn.

how do the current plugs look?

[94st_santos]

they look normal, other than being well worn.

how do the current plugs look?

Yeah well worn but that was only after maybe 2-3 months.

[Bitter]

wow, did you drive 80k miles in those 3 months?!?

[94st_santos]

I don't think, I've had the car since September almost a year and changed the plugs 3x to see what happened, but I think I'm going to try higher octane gas now that I have the NGk plugs and probably change the wires and try to get a hold of some seafoam.

This post has been edited by 94st_santos: Jul 3, 2006 - 10:27 PM

[southwest2118]

hey you may have a restricted exhaust. unbolt it at the cat where it dosent flow through and check it out.

[94st_santos]

hey you may have a restricted exhaust. unbolt it at the cat where it dosent flow through and check it out.

yeah I was just about to post that, that is what I thought it was I think my 1st cat is clogged and restricting flow which may have over heated my manifold and cracked it. I also got the code 71 EGR malfunction, which I think is recirculating to much exhaust gas from restrictive flow. I should be getting my headers with in the next week or so and I'll be replacing the EGR valve, I'll post what happens.

This post has been edited by 94st_santos: Jul 12, 2006 - 9:43 PM

[Culpable04]

I'm getting the same code 71 and I replaced the EGR valve ( didn't help ). abotu the engine noise and lose of torque, If you reset your computer you 'll feel your car different untill the check engine light comes back on, then you'll hear the noise back again and the loss of torque. that's what I have experienced so far.
( if I don't get a solution to this I'll be taking the car to the dealer so they can deal with it and take my money in the process )

This post has been edited by Culpable04: Jul 10, 2006 - 8:03 PM

[sh0x]

In case it's not related to your exhaust issue, I would check for vacuum or air leaks. Check the large hose from your air filter box to the intake. If there are any cracks at all, when the engine moves the cracks will open and it will suck in more air and lean out the mixture. Also check for vacuum leaks, esp. around the PCV valve and in any cracked rubber engine hoses. One way you can check for leaks is by using a length of 3/4" rubber tubing as a stethoscope. Failing that, I would check for intake gasket leaks. The trick here is to spray carb cleaner at the intake gasket and listen for a stumble.

[Bitter]

In case it's not related to your exhaust issue, I would check for vacuum or air leaks. Check the large hose from your air filter box to the intake. If there are any cracks at all, when the engine moves the cracks will open and it will suck in more air and lean out the mixture. Also check for vacuum leaks, esp. around the PCV valve and in any cracked rubber engine hoses. One way you can check for leaks is by using a length of 3/4" rubber tubing as a stethoscope. Failing that, I would check for intake gasket leaks. The trick here is to spray carb cleaner at the intake gasket and listen for a stumble.

ST engine (7afe) is speed density (map) based, you can run an open throttle body if you want to, all the air measuring goes on in the manifold. airflow is calculated by MAP reading, enging rpm, and engine load, i may have left a few factors out.