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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Apr 20, '06 From Florida Currently Offline Reputation: 44 (100%) ![]() |
damn im stupid, alright i have them all hooked up cept the large one and the resistor is not grounded since there was not enough slack to have it reach its mount. I'll go get those grounded,
blah i knew that ground would was important |
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Apr 20, '06 From Florida Currently Offline Reputation: 44 (100%) ![]() |
you say it goes to the second runner correct? well for my car the second runner is a 14mm bolt and the bolt won't fit through the ground.... any ideas?
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Mar 31, '04 From Summerville, SC Currently Offline Reputation: 5 (100%) ![]() |
Just make sure that ground is bolted to the manifold, the exact location doesn't really matter. That's most likely your problem.
-Doc -------------------- -Dr Tweak, 6GC's resident engine swap wiring expert extraordinaire Click here to see my swaps drtweak@phoenixtuning.com |
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Apr 20, '06 From Florida Currently Offline Reputation: 44 (100%) ![]() |
She is bolted on and grounded.
still no power to the +B terminal and not starting.. what do i try next? |
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Aug 31, '02 From Philadelphia, PA Currently Offline Reputation: 8 (100%) ![]() |
what is the car doing... does the starter even crank?
-------------------- 15PSI - 30MPG - Megasquirt Tuned
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Apr 20, '06 From Florida Currently Offline Reputation: 44 (100%) ![]() |
oh yes the starter cranks fine, my step dad sprayed starter fluid in and the car fired that for a second, but im not getting fuel at all, and i'm getting no power to the fuel pump and no power to the +B terminal
This post has been edited by jcbass7: Jul 14, 2006 - 10:38 PM |
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Aug 31, '02 From Philadelphia, PA Currently Offline Reputation: 8 (100%) ![]() |
but, you also said that your diagnostic (cel, oil...etc) lights dont come on when you put the key in the ON position, right?
did you install and aftermarket pump? i think walbros wont work at all if you mix up the positive and negative wiring. if you want a ghetto way to test the pump, run a wire directly from the battery + to the FP terminal in the fuese box. you should hear the pump come on. also ..doubble check that you have all your plugs hooked up. there are 6 big ones from the harness to the ecu and interrior. This post has been edited by lagos: Jul 14, 2006 - 10:47 PM -------------------- 15PSI - 30MPG - Megasquirt Tuned
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Apr 20, '06 From Florida Currently Offline Reputation: 44 (100%) ![]() |
its an sw20 pump,
and yes i am not getting a check engine light at all.... but i will definatly try that trick with the batt and Fp thanks lagos |
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Aug 31, '02 From Philadelphia, PA Currently Offline Reputation: 8 (100%) ![]() |
from your battery... you have a ground wire connected to the tranny AND to the chasis of the car, right?
if your not getting any diag lights then ... you either forgot to plug something in on the interrior of the car forgot a ground wire or the wiring isint done correctly. -------------------- 15PSI - 30MPG - Megasquirt Tuned
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined May 5, '05 From New-Brunswick Canada Currently Offline Reputation: 3 (100%) ![]() |
You're not getting pwr from the EFI relay
pull out your EFI relay (under the hood), put the key in the ign position and test the relay socket pin 1 and 2 (positive and negative of the relay coil), it's indicated on the relay which is which. If you don't have 12V+, check the "ign 7.5A" fuse. That could be your problem. If thats fine, test out the relay by applying voltage to pin 1-2, you should here it click. If not, replace the relay. You will know when the EFI circuit works when you see the engine light come on with the key in the ign position. One way to TEST (only test) the EFI circuit is by shorting pin 3-4 of the socket (with the key in the ign position). Remove it imediately after the test. However, I do not recommend trying this. As for the fuel pump, it works directly off of the EFI circuit, so no EFI, no fuel pump. Good luck, let us know what comes up -------------------- ----------------------6GC's FIRST V6----------------------
![]() JDM 96 MR2-T Faster - 94 Celica GT 3MZFE Funner - 99 Rav 4 AWD Handy |
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Apr 20, '06 From Florida Currently Offline Reputation: 44 (100%) ![]() |
ok ny meet is today so ill test all of this tommorrow ASAP
thanks a bunch gusy ill keep you posted |
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined May 5, '05 From New-Brunswick Canada Currently Offline Reputation: 3 (100%) ![]() |
actualy, i made things a lil more complicated than they really are
first step would be to just turn the key to the ign position and have a helping hand check for the relay "click" then proceed with the complicated stuff -------------------- ----------------------6GC's FIRST V6----------------------
![]() JDM 96 MR2-T Faster - 94 Celica GT 3MZFE Funner - 99 Rav 4 AWD Handy |
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Mar 31, '04 From Summerville, SC Currently Offline Reputation: 5 (100%) ![]() |
QUOTE(jcbass7 @ Jul 14, 2006 - 10:02 PM) [snapback]456223[/snapback] ok 1. the check engine light is not on. and does not come on at all when keys are in 2. cheked fuse connections and interior connections they appear fine 3. there IS power at the bk-yellow wire ad the bottom of the fuse box (there were two a big and a small but getting 12 volt on both) 4. there IS power to the bk-orange wire at BOTH the coil and ignitor Is this the wire you checked in number 3? (It may be black/yellow or black/red): ![]() That's the one you need to check for 12v with the key to on. Also, with the key off, check for resistance (continuity) between this wire, +B in the diagnostic terminal, and +B at the ECU, which is at the end of the 22-pin connector, and is either black/red or black/yellow (it should match the color of the wire in the fusebox). Then we'll go from there. Shoot me an email when you get back on Sunday and if I can I'll give you a call. -Doc -------------------- -Dr Tweak, 6GC's resident engine swap wiring expert extraordinaire Click here to see my swaps drtweak@phoenixtuning.com |
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Apr 20, '06 From Florida Currently Offline Reputation: 44 (100%) ![]() |
QUOTE(Dr_Tweak @ Jul 15, 2006 - 7:31 AM) [snapback]456442[/snapback] Is this the wire you checked in number 3? (It may be black/yellow or black/red): ![]() -Doc I was incorrect in my test before, the black/yellow taht you show above^ is NOT getting any power wkhen the key is in the ON postiion or at all for that matter |
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Apr 20, '06 From Florida Currently Offline Reputation: 44 (100%) ![]() |
also i tried Art's suggestion with jumping batt to Fp and that worked to supply power to the pump to test that section of wiring etc.
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined May 5, '05 From New-Brunswick Canada Currently Offline Reputation: 3 (100%) ![]() |
have you tried what I suggested?
cause from your diagnotics i'm positive your EFI circuit is not working edit: your focus should not be on the fuel pump but on finding why the EFI circuit is not getting power Your ignition switch is supose to turn on that circuit, you said the black-orange for the injectors is getting power so your problem is from the "ign 7.5A" fuse down to the EFI relay. This post has been edited by K-ESD: Jul 16, 2006 - 4:10 PM -------------------- ----------------------6GC's FIRST V6----------------------
![]() JDM 96 MR2-T Faster - 94 Celica GT 3MZFE Funner - 99 Rav 4 AWD Handy |
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Mar 31, '04 From Summerville, SC Currently Offline Reputation: 5 (100%) ![]() |
K-ESD is correct, there's nothing wrong with the fuel pump circut, so just put that out of your head.
Number one, like K-ESD said, have someone put their finger on the EFI main relay and feel if it clicks when you switch the key to the one position. If it does not click, then check the 7.5 amp IGN fuse and make sure it's okay. Then remove it, switch the key to on, and check to make sure that you're getting 12v from one of the pins that it went to. If you DO get a click from the EFI main relay, then check the 15 amp EFI fuse, and then check to see if you're getting power at the pink wire that goes to the bottom of the relay. This wire should have power all the time, even with the key off. Also check continuity between the white/black wire and a good ground to make sure that there is a low resistance. *edit* I just PMd you my phone number, give me a call. -Doc This post has been edited by Dr_Tweak: Jul 16, 2006 - 4:38 PM -------------------- -Dr Tweak, 6GC's resident engine swap wiring expert extraordinaire Click here to see my swaps drtweak@phoenixtuning.com |
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Apr 20, '06 From Florida Currently Offline Reputation: 44 (100%) ![]() |
yes i understand that the problem is not the fuel circuit, that is just the symptom of the EFI problem
ok i pulled the efi relay and tested it and it clicks the 15 amp fuse was blown when i checked it today, but i replaced it and it didn't solve much, since it was fine before.... but i also checked the pink while i was there and the pink wire is not getting power at any time.. |
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Apr 20, '06 From Florida Currently Offline Reputation: 44 (100%) ![]() |
EDIT: I just went out to double check the pink wire for the 15amp fuse, and the 15 amp itself was blown. I then checked and i am getting 12v from it. I'm not sure how it blew though
i double checked the EFI main and it clicks upon turning the key etc. |
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Mar 31, '04 From Summerville, SC Currently Offline Reputation: 5 (100%) ![]() |
QUOTE(jcbass7 @ Jul 17, 2006 - 1:17 AM) [snapback]457004[/snapback] EDIT: I just went out to double check the pink wire for the 15amp fuse, and the 15 amp itself was blown. I then checked and i am getting 12v from it. I'm not sure how it blew though i double checked the EFI main and it clicks upon turning the key etc. So, did you replace the fuse? Do you get power from the pink wire when the fuse is good? Or are you saying that every time you turn the key to on the fuse blows? PM me your number again and I'll call you in about 1/2 an hour. -Doc This post has been edited by Dr_Tweak: Jul 16, 2006 - 8:25 PM -------------------- -Dr Tweak, 6GC's resident engine swap wiring expert extraordinaire Click here to see my swaps drtweak@phoenixtuning.com |
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