Not getting fuel 3sgte, Getting fuel to filter, no error codes, no fuel on spark plugs, not st Options

[K-ESD]

you're getting closer
relay works so you can move down the circuit.

Doc should be able to guide you from here, you're on the right track

Good luck

[jcbass7]

i'm going to have to buy more fuses and test it tommorrow to see when exactly the fuse blows, etc.

ill be around mid-day tommorrow working on the car


sent you a pm with my #

[jcbass7]

ok here is the update...

the 15amp fuse blows everytime the key is put to the"on" position




thats basically it


now i just need to find out why it is frying

[jcbass7]

OK with tweaks help i have made progress (for anyone who wants to know: here is the update)


the 15 amp fuse blowing was due to either a short or something with the boost controller (stock thing) anyway i broke it a while back and just pushed the broken peice back on and should have left it unplugged.

That was creating the issue,

now i crank the engine and recieve these two error codes if i am not mistaken


14 and 22


whicch are

14 - IGN No "IGF" signal to ECU 8-11 times Check Igniter, ignition coil

22 - WTR Open or short in Water Temp Sensor Check Water Temp Sensor



I am assuming that the 14 code is why the engine won't fire?


This post has been edited by jcbass7: Jul 17, 2006 - 6:24 PM

[Dr_Tweak]

Hmm this is odd.

Yes, code 14 will cause the engine to not start. Double-check that you have power at the ignitor and the coil. I take it you're not getting any spark, right?

The water temp sensor is a little wierd too. Is it plugged in right? Here's a copy of the pinout for the 3SGTE engine:



It appears my server is down right now, it should be up before long. Anyway, check for continuity (low resistance) between the brown wire at the coolant temp sensor (it's the one towards the end of the upper radiator hose housing) and ground, then between the red wire and the red wire at pin THW at the ECU.

Also check for continuity between IGT at the ignitor (white) and IGT at the ECU, along with IGF (black/yellow) and IGF at the ECU.

Lastly, what year is the ECU you are running, what is the part number, and does which year set in the above pinout does your harness match?

-Doc

[lagos]

check your harness plug that goes to the ignitor.

i had this same issue after my swap, and so did another guy who was just doing a 5sfe-5sfe swap. the problem is that the harness plug is not making good contact at one of the connectors. i think on mine it was the blue and white wire. also, doubble check that you are getting power from the main black and orange wire that feeds the coil.

Edit: it also gave me code 14

This post has been edited by lagos: Jul 17, 2006 - 8:20 PM

[phattyduck]

check your harness plug that goes to the ignitor.

i had this same issue after my swap, and so did another guy who was just doing a 5sfe-5sfe swap. the problem is that the harness plug is not making good contact at one of the connectors. i think on mine it was the blue and white wire. also, doubble check that you are getting power from the main black and orange wire that feeds the coil.

Edit: it also gave me code 14

Same here - that was my plug mistake on my swap. (it'll try to start for a couple cranks, then nothing)

Tweak has some good places to debug there, so you'll figure this out soon enough.

-Charlie

PS. I told you to leave the turbo VSV unplugged until after the motor started!

[jcbass7]

Same here - that was my plug mistake on my swap. (it'll try to start for a couple cranks, then nothing)

Tweak has some good places to debug there, so you'll figure this out soon enough.

-Charlie

PS. I told you to leave the turbo VSV unplugged until after the motor started!

i guess i should pay more attention


oh boy, atleast im learning a lot!


I'll try all of those things above^^ tommorrow morning when the sun comes up

[jcbass7]

I'm going to have to draw a diagram of this.. my ecu plugs do not match either set-ep.. well let me explain



the 16 pin connecter matches the plug on the bottom diagram (91-alltrac) well the colors don't all match but the layout does.


the 22 pin is missing the 13 spot and the 4 spot wires


the 26 pin..

has wires in the

1 2 3 4 5 6 X X 9 10 11 12 13
14 X X 17 18 X 20 X X 23 24 25 26






the ecu should be froma 93 all trac JDM

here are the numbers

3SGT

89661-2B280
175000-4812

[jcbass7]

check your harness plug that goes to the ignitor.

i had this same issue after my swap, and so did another guy who was just doing a 5sfe-5sfe swap. the problem is that the harness plug is not making good contact at one of the connectors. i think on mine it was the blue and white wire. also, doubble check that you are getting power from the main black and orange wire that feeds the coil.

Edit: it also gave me code 14

I am getting power at the black and orange wire

[WannabeGT4]

Your ECU is definitely form a 92-93 celica.

Looking at some of your older posts it looks like you didn't buy a clip.
What are the part numbers for your ignitor and coil? They are not the same between 90/91 and 92/93 and may be the cause of your code 14.

Ignitor part number should be 89621-12050 for the 92/93 3SGTE.
Coil part number should be 90919-02197 for the 92/93 3SGTE.

This post has been edited by WannabeGT4: Jul 18, 2006 - 3:00 PM

[jcbass7]

correct i did not buy a clip (mistake) but i actually couldn't pass the deal up on the engine and car i got together


ill go check the ignitor and coil right now


EDIT: those numbers match

so this means i DEFINTALY have a 92-93 all trac motor and parts etc.?

I was told its a 93 and i gues its checking out so far

This post has been edited by jcbass7: Jul 18, 2006 - 2:20 PM

[Dr_Tweak]

Okay, ECU is correct, the are you sure that the 16-pin connector doesn't match the top one in the diagram? Are you looking at the connectors the right way? The two missing pins on the 22-pin plug are fine.

And you still need to do this:

Anyway, check for continuity (low resistance) between the brown wire at the coolant temp sensor (it's the one towards the end of the upper radiator hose housing) and ground, then between the red wire and the red wire at pin THW at the ECU.

Also check for continuity between IGT at the ignitor (white) and IGT at the ECU, along with IGF (black/yellow) and IGF at the ECU.

[WannabeGT4]

correct i did not buy a clip (mistake) but i actually couldn't pass the deal up on the engine and car i got together

ill go check the ignitor and coil right now

EDIT: those numbers match
so this means i DEFINTALY have a 92-93 all trac motor and parts etc.?
I was told its a 93 and i gues its checking out so far

Yup, it's a gen.2 rev.2 3SGTE. The problem must be in the wiring somewhere. Doc should be able to figure it out though.

[jcbass7]

how about the 26 pin...

should that have pins in the 23 even though its a 93 ?

Ill check all three plugs and continuity tommorrow morning


thanks guys

JC

[jcbass7]

Ok this diagram shows EXACTLY what my wiring looks like going into the ECU

if anyone needs colors for wires ill post that too


Doc you are right i was not noticing the 16th pin missing in the 16 pin connector





Now Doc had me check continuity and here are the results


1. between brown wire and ground = low resistance (close to 0)
2. between red wire and THW at ECU = No reading at all (needle didn't move or show any signs of anything)
3. between white (igniter) and IGT at ECU = low resistance
4. between BK/Yellow (Igniter) and IGF at ECU = low resistance


ok thats basically where i am now

This post has been edited by jcbass7: Jul 19, 2006 - 1:34 PM

[Dr_Tweak]

Okay well the THW is an odd one, there must be a break in the wire somewhere. You'll have to search it out and see where the break is and repair it.

It looks like the IGT and IGF circuts are normal. Check to see if you have a voltage reading between IGT and E1 while cranking the engine. You should get about 1 volt. Also, you should be using a digital multimeter.

Then check for voltage between IGT and a body ground while cranking.

-Doc

[jcbass7]

ok so this is a bit weird



i thought i might check the codes again to see if they were still present.

first code 22 constant

then i remember the igniter is unplugged, hook it in and jump the diagnostics again


now i get code 12, and 22


14 dissapeared..


12 from what ive found is a problem with the starter/distrubter?

PS:

if the top electrical connection was severed from the starter, would this give me code 12?

12 - RPM No "G" signal to ECU for 2 sec after crank Starting related, check distributor, starter

[jcbass7]

ok well im almost positive code 12 is because the top electrical connection is severed.. or is now, on the starter. When dropping it in my friend broke the connection off of the starter but not completly. now its completly off and im getting code 12. Is there a way to fix it?

it doesn't look very easy to repair, maybe i should buy a new starter.

will the starter off of the st185 awd tranny fit? or how about the one from a manual ST?


I'm also going to assume that since i have code 12, the 14 isn't showing up due to the code 12. once i fix the started 14 will show up again?

[Dr_Tweak]

ok well im almost positive code 12 is because the top electrical connection is severed.. or is now, on the starter. When dropping it in my friend broke the connection off of the starter but not completly. now its completly off and im getting code 12. Is there a way to fix it?

it doesn't look very easy to repair, maybe i should buy a new starter.

will the starter off of the st185 awd tranny fit? or how about the one from a manual ST?


I'm also going to assume that since i have code 12, the 14 isn't showing up due to the code 12. once i fix the started 14 will show up again?

Off the top of the starter? No, that shouldn't have anything to do with it... that code showed up because you forgot to plug in the ignitor. Clear the codes by pulling the EFI fuse for a minute, and run them again. Then attempt to start it again and then run the codes if it doesn't start.

The ST185 starter will work, but the connector is different. The ST one will not.

-Doc

This post has been edited by Dr_Tweak: Jul 19, 2006 - 6:52 PM