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> E-Brake, tightening cable
post Jul 30, 2006 - 11:20 PM
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6gsillyca



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I was wondering if anybody on here knew how to tighten the e-brake cable, or if it is even adjustable...
post Jul 31, 2006 - 12:24 PM
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QUOTE(6gsillyca @ Jul 31, 2006 - 12:20 AM) [snapback]463364[/snapback]

I was wondering if anybody on here knew how to tighten the e-brake cable, or if it is even adjustable...

yup, remove your center console...along side the e-brake handle there is a threaded rod, loosen the first nut, then tighten the 2nd, and lock it in place with the first.
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post Jul 31, 2006 - 12:53 PM
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playr158



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there is also an adjustment star behind your rear rotors (for the actual e-brake pads)

This post has been edited by playr158: Jul 31, 2006 - 12:54 PM
post Aug 2, 2006 - 3:31 AM
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6gsillyca



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how do you take off the back panels, under the center console part. i can get the part around the shift boot off, but cant get the rest off to get to the threaded rod...
post Aug 2, 2006 - 6:21 AM
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vsideboy



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there are 2 bolts inside the centre lidded compartment mate.

10mm I think.

then just tug on the back and slide it over the handbrake handle
post Aug 2, 2006 - 11:29 AM
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QUOTE(playr158 @ Jul 31, 2006 - 12:53 PM) [snapback]463602[/snapback]

there is also an adjustment star behind your rear rotors (for the actual e-brake pads)

odds are if over time you've noticed the parking brake takes more and more travel to engage then its a sure sign that your brake shoes are worn low. you should atleast pop off the rear wheels and drums and check how thin the shoes have gotten.


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post Aug 2, 2006 - 12:34 PM
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6gsillyca



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i have discs in the back, although last time i checked my brakes they were at ~40% for pads and rotors. A few months ago the handle used to come up to about 2 clicks from all the way up, now i can go all the way to the top with not much force.
post Aug 2, 2006 - 1:44 PM
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QUOTE(6gsillyca @ Aug 2, 2006 - 6:34 PM) [snapback]464510[/snapback]

i have discs in the back,


They are for the rear foot brakes mate, the handbrake shoes are inside the centre of the rear disc/hub.

You need to take off the wheel and rear caliper, then align the hole in the rear disk/hub to 6 oclock and rotate the small star wheel with a flat blade screwdriver so that it winds in the handbrake shoes. I think you move it towards you from top to bottom to wind them in (and opposite to wind them back out again).


The pictures on page 11 should help.
http://www.celicatech.com/imagearchive/bgb...ke%20system.pdf

look at the adjuster piece, there is a small star nut in the centre of that that you need to rotate. the disc/hub will then come off easily.
post Aug 2, 2006 - 2:15 PM
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QUOTE(vsideboy @ Aug 2, 2006 - 4:21 AM) [snapback]464418[/snapback]

there are 2 bolts inside the centre lidded compartment mate.

10mm I think.

then just tug on the back and slide it over the handbrake handle


there are two phillips-head screws under the shift boot surround you got off, and the two vsideboy mentioned inside the console box. they're 12mm and you'll need a socket exstension to get at them. when you've slid the cover up and back a bit, tilt it up towards the shifter, there's a plug underneath for the light in the ashtray that you'll have to unclip. then it'll slide off over the e-rake handle.

vsideboy, right on with the suggestions!


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post Aug 2, 2006 - 2:19 PM
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uberschall

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QUOTE(Bitter @ Aug 2, 2006 - 9:29 AM) [snapback]464486[/snapback]

QUOTE(playr158 @ Jul 31, 2006 - 12:53 PM) [snapback]463602[/snapback]

there is also an adjustment star behind your rear rotors (for the actual e-brake pads)

odds are if over time you've noticed the parking brake takes more and more travel to engage then its a sure sign that your brake shoes are worn low. you should atleast pop off the rear wheels and drums and check how thin the shoes have gotten.


the shoes are designed to last the life of the car...you don't want to replace them. the stupid things are $35 apiece (not in sets of two), and the only way you can get them is from a dealership, unless you buy used. vsideboy is spot on about dialing in the star adjuster.

i don't mean to be a post whore, but i just fixed this EXACT problem myself. that's how i found out about the price of parts!


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post Aug 3, 2006 - 1:49 AM
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6gsillyca



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i adjusted the threaded rod manny was talking about, worked like a charm, thing is, i only had one nut on it...
post Aug 3, 2006 - 1:58 AM
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cheers uberschall I try my best.


QUOTE(6gsillyca @ Aug 3, 2006 - 7:49 AM) [snapback]464854[/snapback]

i adjusted the threaded rod manny was talking about, worked like a charm, thing is, i only had one nut on it...



The second nut is to act as a lock nut and stop the first one vibrating itself loose. You should try to find one to fit or you could put some threadlock onto the first nut or an actual locking nut rather than 2 nuts.
Tighten the cable with the first one then tighten the second one against the first one whilst holding the first one in place. This would lock them together and hopefully make it more difficult to turn itself,
post Aug 3, 2006 - 1:37 PM
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i was missing a nut too, it's an m6 (metric size 6) coarse thread. you can get them anywhere, hardware store, even auto parts stores sell them in packs of 6. i'd recommend putting a washer underneath both of them to prevent the nuts from getting jammed (if there isn't one there...mine didn't have one).

i can take a pic of the setup if you'd like.


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post Aug 3, 2006 - 2:40 PM
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6gsillyca



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No thanks, I was going to go out and get another one today, but the washer is a good idea. Thanks
post Aug 3, 2006 - 3:53 PM
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QUOTE(uberschall @ Aug 3, 2006 - 7:37 PM) [snapback]464990[/snapback]

i was missing a nut too, it's an m6 (metric size 6) coarse thread. you can get them anywhere, hardware store, even auto parts stores sell them in packs of 6. i'd recommend putting a washer underneath both of them to prevent the nuts from getting jammed (if there isn't one there...mine didn't have one).

i can take a pic of the setup if you'd like.



Where are you planning on putting the washer mate? OK Have one betweek the handle and the nut, but not between the nuts as the whole point of having 2 is that they jam together, then they don't work themselves loose.

D
post Aug 3, 2006 - 9:43 PM
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QUOTE(uberschall @ Aug 2, 2006 - 2:19 PM) [snapback]464566[/snapback]

the shoes are designed to last the life of the car...you don't want to replace them. the stupid things are $35 apiece (not in sets of two), and the only way you can get them is from a dealership, unless you buy used. vsideboy is spot on about dialing in the star adjuster.

i don't mean to be a post whore, but i just fixed this EXACT problem myself. that's how i found out about the price of parts!



Just gonna piggyback on this post (not attempting to hijack the thread either redface.gif ) I got my car with the E-brake pads completely worn off...like the previous owner was pulling donuts every chance he got or something. So I had them reshoed, cost me $36 total. But the rotors weren't stock, ended up shaving too much off the e-brake assembly, and so it still doesn't work that well. mad.gif


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