sound from rear, sounds like brakes dragging |
sound from rear, sounds like brakes dragging |
Aug 16, 2006 - 6:29 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Mar 3, '04 From Hollywood, MD Currently Offline Reputation: 6 (100%) |
ok so i put new pads and rotors on the rear and it still sounds like the brakes are dragging, what else should i check?
i guess at this point its either the brake lines or the calipers, but i just really dont feel like spending money on those untill i exhaust all my options.. i already tried adjusting the e-brake too, and it also doesnt do it when i brake, and sometimes it doesnt do it at all.. i guess this points even further to it being the brake line.. arghh. |
Aug 16, 2006 - 10:30 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Mar 3, '04 From Hollywood, MD Currently Offline Reputation: 6 (100%) |
well i have two theories as of now, 1 that they are not bled corrrectly and 2 that its the rear dust guards.
the noise stops when i begin to brake, and i cant think of anything else that would cause both rear wheels to sound like they are dragging. |
Aug 17, 2006 - 12:00 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Apr 18, '05 From Calgary Currently Offline Reputation: 20 (100%) |
i had that problem before .. when i hit the brakes the sound goes away. the problem was the brakes were getting really thin that the warning strips on the pads are hitting the rotors.
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Aug 17, 2006 - 12:00 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Mar 3, '04 From Hollywood, MD Currently Offline Reputation: 6 (100%) |
its new pads and rotors though
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Aug 17, 2006 - 1:23 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Mar 29, '06 From Hull, UK Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
the brake pad never actually leaves the disc otherwise you'd have loads of pressing to do before the car actually broke (braked?)
anyway, you'll always have a slight noise coming from the pads, but as these are new ones and they haven't worn out to exactly the same shape as the disc then it will take a while for the newness (is it a word?) noise to die down. Is it a really loud noise or just a slight scraping? Are the discs/wheels getting really hot after a few miles of driving (without heavy braking?) if its only a slight noise and the hubs/wheels aren't getting hot then i wouldn't worry. if they are getting hot or the noise is excessivly loud then i'd take it all apart again and make damn sure that you got the rotors on exactly straight, i.e. clean all the crap off the mating faces of the hub and the disc. then make sure the pads are a snug fit in the caliper and able to slide back and forth fairly easily. (you don't want them to be able to move and rattle about but they need to be able to slide up and down the sliders without too much force) hope that helps. Dan |
Aug 17, 2006 - 1:25 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Mar 3, '04 From Hollywood, MD Currently Offline Reputation: 6 (100%) |
theres pretty much no room on the caliper when i put the pads on, to swing it back down overtop of the pads i have to give it a wack with the palm of my hand, i figured thats just because of the piston being extended though, should i press it back in?
its a decent noise, i mean when coming to a stop its definitly noticeable, but when i drove like 30 minutes i didnt smell that burning brake smell, i didnt check to see if it was hot.. but i will when i pick it up from the inspection shop tomorrow. if they arent smelling bad and arent getting hot then what could it be? i mean both a collapsed line and a seized caliper would likely make a lot more fuss right? This post has been edited by brianforster: Aug 17, 2006 - 1:27 AM |
Aug 17, 2006 - 1:42 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Mar 29, '06 From Hull, UK Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
yeah mate you ALWAYS need to push the piston back in so it clears the pads without forcing it on.
Basically you press the brake pedal and it pushes the piston out of the caliper, well when you let off the pedal some fluid gets sucked back into the chamber and the piston gets pulled back into the caliper very slightly (just enough so the brakes aren't constantly on.) So by not pushing the piston in it is as far out as it possibly can be with those pads BEFORE you've pressed the pedal so the releasing the pedal can't pull it back in. Also if the piston is not siezed and the pipe is not damaged then you should be able to easily push in the piston with a g clamp (I can even use my hand on one of my rears.) The caliper should go over the pads easily not forced on. You don't need to put the piston all the way in, but enough to miss the pads. TAKE THE CAP OFF THE MASTER CYLINDER RESERVOIR WHEN YOU ARE PUSHING PISTONS IN. AND REMEMBER TO PUT IT BACK BEFORE YOU DRIVE. Hope that helps Dan |
Aug 17, 2006 - 2:35 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Feb 3, '06 From Czech Republic (Europe) Currently Offline Reputation: 56 (100%) |
I had similar problem two weeks ago. Rear brake pistons didn't regress so I technically brake smoothly all the time... new seals and piston cleanup handled that.
-------------------- No more replicas... This is evolution... This is SS-four :)
________[Featured Celica of 6gc.net @ 2010]_________ |
Aug 17, 2006 - 2:40 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Mar 29, '06 From Hull, UK Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
QUOTE(malpaso @ Aug 17, 2006 - 8:35 AM) [snapback]469892[/snapback] I had similar problem two weeks ago. Rear brake pistons didn't regress so I technically brake smoothly all the time... new seals and piston cleanup handled that. was it a pain getting the piston in and out? I want to do the same but don't like bleeding brakes and am bit concerned bout not being able to get the piston back in |
Aug 17, 2006 - 10:41 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Mar 3, '04 From Hollywood, MD Currently Offline Reputation: 6 (100%) |
well today im gonna try pressing the piston back in.. that would explain it happening on both sides.. although inside of it looked mighty funky, so i guess ill grab some pb blaster as a preventive maintenence.. or maybe brake cleen
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Aug 17, 2006 - 2:02 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Aug 31, '02 From Philadelphia, PA Currently Offline Reputation: 8 (100%) |
QUOTE(brianforster @ Aug 17, 2006 - 11:41 AM) [snapback]469938[/snapback] well today im gonna try pressing the piston back in.. that would explain it happening on both sides.. although inside of it looked mighty funky, so i guess ill grab some pb blaster as a preventive maintenence.. or maybe brake cleen i wouldnt use any type of oil like pb blaster on your brake parts. i would only use brake parts cleaner. -------------------- 15PSI - 30MPG - Megasquirt Tuned
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Aug 17, 2006 - 5:30 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Mar 3, '04 From Hollywood, MD Currently Offline Reputation: 6 (100%) |
thanks guys it ended up being the fact that i didnt push the piston in
except now i keep hearing weird claking noises from either the front or back i cant tell, i dunno its not pretty though, makes my car sound like a beater.. i assume its probably odd struts or something,ill have my friends take a listen and get more opinions. |
Aug 17, 2006 - 8:30 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Apr 18, '05 From Calgary Currently Offline Reputation: 20 (100%) |
yes, everytime you pull off the caliper, you should use WD40 or equivalent and lubricate the pistons..
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Aug 17, 2006 - 8:45 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Mar 3, '04 From Hollywood, MD Currently Offline Reputation: 6 (100%) |
the noises are still comign from the back, its kind of a clicking, tapping, or clacking, its not really a dragging sound, ill investigate tomorrow, but its def coming from the rear back.. and it happens at low speeds with the rotation of the tire and it stops when i put the brakes on..
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Aug 18, 2006 - 1:36 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Mar 29, '06 From Hull, UK Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
did you put all the shims back with the new pads? And are the pads loose in the sliders or are they snug? sounds like you've got something stuck in them or its just the pads moving in the sliders. (most likely just the pads moving if it stops when you brake.) just nip up the sliders slightly until they grip the pad in position but not too much that it cant slide freely. i.e. take out the movement sideways but still allow the movement in and out.
Dan |
Aug 18, 2006 - 8:59 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Jan 28, '05 From Redondo Beach, CA Currently Offline Reputation: 86 (100%) |
hmmm, bad hub and bearing perhaps, a similar problem like this drove me nuts...take off tire, put a jack next the the rotor, stick a pencil on the rotor and rotate by hand, see if theres any skipping. or just rotate rotor by hand but look on the side and see if its rototing straight.
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Aug 18, 2006 - 10:23 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Mar 3, '04 From Hollywood, MD Currently Offline Reputation: 6 (100%) |
i did notice when putting the pads back on that they are pretty loose inside of the caliper, like they arent snug and dont clip in like the other side.. i think im missing the clips that hold them snug
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Aug 18, 2006 - 10:30 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Jan 28, '05 From Redondo Beach, CA Currently Offline Reputation: 86 (100%) |
local dealership has em usually in stock, called anti-rattle kits or something like that.
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Aug 18, 2006 - 1:36 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Mar 29, '06 From Hull, UK Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
that should solve the rattling then matey.
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Aug 18, 2006 - 2:30 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Mar 3, '04 From Hollywood, MD Currently Offline Reputation: 6 (100%) |
thanks everyone, car makes 0 death noises.. WOOOT!~
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