more power, add 2nd alternator for more power at 14V Options

[nightrider]

sorry, 4got to mention, u lose 1 volt per fuse, dist blocks no good ????? run straight from cap feed!!!

[soven]

I am baffled, where do you get all your "facts" from.......

[Bitter]

wheres the pics?

[K-ESD]

where's that 1 volt drop when i stick my meter leads across my dist. block?

[6th_celi_vert]

i run 2300 rms on 1 battery and have no problems. MCH-1300 (memphis belle)and MCD-1000. the one catch is my battery is a Kinetik HC2400. thats one huge battery.
-Aaron-

I have the same battery, theyre awesome.

[nightrider]

The Power Capacitor is an energy storage capacitor. It is designed
to supplement audio amplifiers power supply during high current
demand. The overall bass response of your audio system will be
enhanced with the using of this device due to it´s ability to store a
large amount of current and discharge it in a short period of time.
Combined with a good car battery and powerful DC-wiring will
make you experience a new dimension in the bass sound.
Another significant feature of the Power Cap is it´s ability to filter
car AC voltage induced in the system by the amplifiers power
supply which could cause objectionable noise to be induced into
the audio system. We recommend using a capacitor of 1 Farad
for each 500 Watts amplifier power. You can never have too much
capacitance in an audio system.
INSTALLATION / MOUNTING:
The Power Cap should be mounted as close to the amplifier as
possible and keep the wires short to reduce voltage drop in the
cable. Use the two mounting brackets to fix the capacitor near the
amplifier.
WIRING:
Use the same cable area to the capacitor as the one you use to
the amplifier. The Power Cap should be fused at the battery, don´t
place any fuse between the Power Cap and the amplifier. Mount
the fuse as in the drawing below. Use the same cable area for the
ground wire. The capacitor should be connected in parallel with the
positive feed to the amplifier. Use a power block as in the drawing
below. If you have a model with the power block included on the
top of the capacitor you use this for connecting.
NOTE! The capacitor must be charged before it´s connected
into the system. Read the part about charging before
connecting the capacitor.
Capacity 0,5 Farad 1 Farad 1,5 Farad
Max voltage 20 DCV 20 DCV 20 DCV
Tolerance -10% +50% -10% +50% -10% +50%
Max. temp. 95 C 95 C 95 C

[nightrider]

These are the ratings from JBL for the Amps that have been used as examples. 78 to 190amps of current. This is by far way above what you can get from any stock Alt. The location of the Alt will prevent the fitting of anything bigger as it will hit the bonnet of the car. Please supply the batt details as I will swap out the one in the boot and let you know if its at all better?

Px300.4 Px600.2 BPx500.1 BPx1100.1 BPx2200.1
Power Output, 150W x 4 300W x 2 250W x 2 575W x 2 1100W x 2
2 Ohms Current Draw 78A 78A 50A 110A 190A

[nightrider]

The Kinetick batt as described is rated as 81 amps? How do you get this up to 190Amps?

Kinetik HC1800 Power Cell Full size powerhouse. Fits vehicles with larger battery boxes. Capable of powering nearly any system without compromise. Specifications Weight: 54 lbs. Ah: 81 Amps: 1900 Dimensions: 10" x 6.5" x 8.2"

[nightrider]

Finally, I have added a pic to my profile, what do you think?

[Sinyk]

Finally, I have added a pic to my profile, what do you think?

Nice setup with that alt. Now how about some stereo pics? If you don't want to put them here, go to sounddomain.com and make a car site there.

I've seen this done before, but usually with setups over 1000rms. I ran a lot more than that with a deep cycle battery, one 1 farad cap and stock alt and it ran great in comps, but if i ran my system "balls to the wall" for about 30 seconds, my system would shut off due to undervoltage, but why the hell I would run over 145db's for that duration is beyond me.

You must be running constant, low freq, heavy bass all the time to require a second alternator with only 1000 rms and one 15.

oh well, if you can get all that power and for some reason require it, then go nuts and have fun doing it.

This post has been edited by Sinyk: Oct 10, 2006 - 2:31 PM

[Niskyspy]

Here are the pics that nightrider sent me of his 2nd alternator!!!
Great job dude, 100 cudos for u

[nightrider]

thanks for the comp, how come you can get the pics into your reply? I had so much probs with voltage and current as I run deep bass almost all the time on my way to work. This means I got the lights heaters and wipers on and i am in traffick so the revs dont go up much. I was just fed up with the power drops that I went for the option of the 2nd alt as a number of comp cars have this. I am using the Alpine MRD 1000 but I can now look at much bigger amps for my system. I will slot a bigger mono block just as soon as the cash flow will allow.

[nightrider]

where's that 1 volt drop when i stick my meter leads across my dist. block?

I am told that a fuse drops a volt due to resistance? am I right?

[Niskyspy]

To upload pics:
1)Go to www.photobucket.com and register, (its free)
2)Upload your pics
3)When they are done uploading u'll see em on the screen
4)Select the pics that you want in ur post (using check marks)
5)At the bottom of the screen there is a button, something like HTML code, press it
6)Then it will load a page with bunch of windows and links to your pictures in different style
7)Copy the text that is for forum's/boards
8)Paste it into ur reply and u'll have your pictures posted.

That is it!!!

[K-ESD]

where's that 1 volt drop when i stick my meter leads across my dist. block?

I am told that a fuse drops a volt due to resistance? am I right?

I did a little test on my "cheap" dist block and found a 0.01 volt drop across my main fuse (120A). That was with a low current tho, things will probly heat up at high current but I doubt it will result in a whole one volt drop.

[afroman]

The Kinetick batt as described is rated as 81 amps? How do you get this up to 190Amps?

Kinetik HC1800 Power Cell Full size powerhouse. Fits vehicles with larger battery boxes. Capable of powering nearly any system without compromise. Specifications Weight: 54 lbs. Ah: 81 Amps: 1900 Dimensions: 10" x 6.5" x 8.2"

im not sure what you are getting at but i have the HC2400 and it has
Specifications
Weight: 69 lbs.
Ah: 128
Amps: 2600
Dimensions: 13" x 6.7" x 8.5"
Suggested Retail: $449.00
thats 2600 amps and 128 Amp hours (Ah)

Im not sure really why there was such a question i never said you didnt do it. nice work

-Aaron-

[n1ckz0r]

i was going to hook up two P600.1bd to two 12 inch alpine r's. I work at Best Buy so, i get uber discounts on this stuff and almost went crazy and did it, but it would have destroyed my car. LOL loud stereo ftw

[nightrider]

Thanks for the comps guys, we over here will normally take out the AC unit and replace it with a 2nd Alt. However as you can see by the pics all stock parts are still in. I had to move the fuse holder to make room. The difference between 14.4V and 12V on my Alpine MRD 1000 is 500W to 350W @ 4 ohms. This is more pronounced at 2 ohm loads. So 2.4 volts makes a big difference to my bass and when you chuck in the AV and under car lighting set up 7 tubes (exterior) and five tubes (interior) you quickly run out of volts. I also use a auto blow electronic fuse in the engine bay and another in the boot just in case The line is severed in a crash as I do not want to fry with the caps pushing all that power (3 Farads). I am now looking for Solo Baraic (square Sub 15) and a beefy mono block to claim top spot in the Bass stakes. Any ideas on this setup guys???