boost controller broken?, greddy profec spec B Options

[brianforster]

ok so today i finally got around to installin' my boost controller.

It is hooked up as so:
We used the nipple to the VERY right of the intake manifold. It was blocked off up until this point. I made sure it was indeed a vacuum port by blowing in it and air went through the intake system.
This hose is hooked up directly to the profec's headunit.

We hooked up the solenoid as so:
"IN"is hooked up from the compressor housing, and "out" is going to the wastegate. The other port on the wastegate (the one for the factory boost controler?(TDIS brian says)) is not hooked up.

THis is not Brianforster, this is his buddy so I apologize, but I dont know everything about how your silly turbos work.

At first, we were getting good boost playing with the knobs and making good pressure. We would hit 15 psi, and then it would slowly lose pressure till about 12 or 13. We played more until but we couldn't get any more out of it(still peaking at 15 and dropping). Then, it stopped working. It would make the factory 7-8 and nothing more. We parked it, checked our connections and hoses, and drove it again. It worked for the first two pulls, but afterwards, same stock boost.

I have two thoughts on this problem. One is that maybe I hooked up the solenioid backwards, I will go check.
Two, should the wastegate get the compressor housing pressure and then we hook the soleoid "in" to another port and the "out" to the blocked off hose on the wastegate, or is it all just broken?

TY

[brianforster]

ok for the record i told him the other hose was for the tvsv, he just typed it wrong

it seems as if it just stops working all together, we get the same boost pressure in high, low, and when the boost controller is OFF.

also, we discovered that we mounted the solenoid wrong, we moutned it with the inlet/outlets pointing towards the engine (we moutned it right by the drivers side motor/trans mount) when i think we need to moutn it so the inlet/outlets are pointing towards the hood of the car (up) the diagram threw us for a loop.


I checked the solenoid's IN and OUT and they are correct.

This post has been edited by brianforster: Aug 23, 2006 - 9:02 AM

[zipstrips]

sounds all too familar..... im looking forward to dr tweaks reply ....

[lagos]

The other port on the wastegate (the one for the factory boost controler?(TDIS brian says)) is not hooked up.

did you put a vac cap on it? are your dip switches setup like the manual says? where are your knobs at?

[brianforster]

yes that line is plugged, dip switches are correct (up down up down) and when the car decides to not boost (stock boost) turning the knobs do nothing, none of the nobs affect boost. its like its nto working at all.

we used the nipple on the intake manifold that goes normally to the factory charcoal canister, is this an ok nipple to use?

[lagos]

no. the charcol canister one is not a good source of vac. tee into the one that goes to your map sensor, or use that big 8m one (youll need a reducer) that is normally caped off on the back of the intake manifold.

then set your gain about half way, and start adjusting the boost knob from there.

This post has been edited by lagos: Aug 22, 2006 - 5:52 PM

[brianforster]

i tapped in to the map sensor hose for my line that goes to the cabin and nothign has changed. the car is still acting as if the controller is not hooked up at all.

i would assume that i hooked somethign up incorrectly if it wasnt for the fact that the controller worked fine for like 7 pulls and then stopped working.

[zipstrips]

i tapped in to the map sensor hose for my line that goes to the cabin and nothign has changed. the car is still acting as if the controller is not hooked up at all.

i would assume that i hooked somethign up incorrectly if it wasnt for the fact that the controller worked fine for like 7 pulls and then stopped working.

i have my cabin line off the same line, and my boost gauge is T'd from there under the dash. it worked on my 7afte fine. 5-20psi... (the motor was already shot when i tried 20psi, and no it didnt blow it apart unfortunetly) i have read over the greddy instructions http://www.greddy.com/img/PHP/products/pdf/687.pdf
a few times but still don't see where we are wrong...

[brianforster]

zipstrips have you ever hit more htan 4psi on your car? what happens when you turn the boost controller off? cause with it off, you should be running stock boost.

actually, even with the boost controller on and turned all the way down you should be hitting more than 4 psi.

edit: i just read your other post, i see that now you run 10 psi..

so what your saying is your problem is exactly like mine? your boost controller does nothing and whether its off on, min or max, your running ~10psi?

This post has been edited by brianforster: Aug 23, 2006 - 12:40 AM

[zipstrips]

zipstrips have you ever hit more htan 4psi on your car? what happens when you turn the boost controller off? cause with it off, you should be running stock boost.

actually, even with the boost controller on and turned all the way down you should be hitting more than 4 psi.

edit: i just read your other post, i see that now you run 10 psi..

so what your saying is your problem is exactly like mine? your boost controller does nothing and whether its off on, min or max, your running ~10psi?

im saying is im at 10psi now, everything hooked up, both WG ports. when i cap that 2nd port and other side i go back to 4psi for some reason.. the boost controller doesnt seem to have any effect either way its installed. ive treid searching mr2oc.com for help there but no results btw...

[brianforster]

im pretty sure you have to unplug the tvsvconnector too, with no pressure line going to it the computer is just going "oh ****" and putting you at 4 psi? maybe, i dunno.

i just did a quick readup on mr2oc and it looks like the tvsv should be disabled by either disconnecting the vac line or unplugging the connector, but i guess it wouldnt hurt to try both.

This post has been edited by brianforster: Aug 23, 2006 - 9:06 AM

[zipstrips]

im pretty sure you have to unplug the tvsvconnector too, with no pressure line going to it the computer is just going "oh ****" and putting you at 4 psi? maybe, i dunno.

i just did a quick readup on mr2oc and it looks like the tvsv should be disabled by either disconnecting the vac line or unplugging the connector, but i guess it wouldnt hurt to try both.

let me know what works for you and ill gladly walk out side and try aswell. maybe i need to be re-educauted on tvis and tvsv to figure out why this isnt working. i installed what i though was correct and its not working like it should. but yea if i cap that 2nd WG port and the other hard line it goes to, bam 4psi again.

[lagos]

tvis = toyoa variable induction system. this is on the intake manifold. it opens up 4 extra runners to get more air into the motor.

tvsv = turbo vac switching valve. this is a factory boost controler. the WG spring is set to 7psi. when the ecu decides its safe to do so, it engages the tvsv to give more boost (around 10-11psi). if you want to install a boost controler, you have to disable this by disconnecting the hose that goes to it and caping it. you should leave the harness plug connected to it tho.

if you are only getting 4psi, then there is something wrong. either your wg is stuck on the after market dp, or you have a boost leak, or something going on. on a healty 3s, there is no way to only run 4psi.

[zipstrips]

tvis = toyoa variable induction system. this is on the intake manifold. it opens up 4 extra runners to get more air into the motor.

tvsv = turbo vac switching valve. this is a factory boost controler. the WG spring is set to 7psi. when the ecu decides its safe to do so, it engages the tvsv to give more boost (around 10-11psi). if you want to install a boost controler, you have to disable this by disconnecting the hose that goes to it and caping it. you should leave the harness plug connected to it tho.

if you are only getting 4psi, then there is something wrong. either your wg is stuck on the after market dp, or you have a boost leak, or something going on. on a healty 3s, there is no way to only run 4psi.

enough withthe 4 psi the DP is NOT the issue. ive grinded open, installed it, ran it for a few hunded miles. took it off when i did my FMIC install. there are no signs of the WG hitting it. i do have a ****ty idle, which does give me a bad vac at idle. vac while driveing when i let off goes to 20-21vac

[lagos]

whats your vac like at idle?

did you ever try to do a boost leak test on your car?

[brianforster]

today it worked for a bit again, i was in the middle of fine tuning it, not paying attention and i hit the rev limited in 2nd for .5 seconds at most, i noticed that the boost was trailing off that time as i got to redline and then when i shifted to third it started boosting only to stock boost again.

i have two theories so far

1) the line going to the headunit is getting kinked some how or leaking, im going to explroe that one
2) the faceplate on the headunit comes off easily, right now i have electrical tape holding it on, but when i took it off and looked inside and made sure all the ocnnections were made, and put it back on/taped it, it worked again (but at the same time i moved the line around in the back)

so one of these two things i THINK is causing my boost controller to stop working sometimes..

either that or theres some kind of safe mode on the controller which i really doubt.

[zipstrips]

any progress brian?

[brianforster]

well halfway up to my trip to college i decided to turn it on, and it worked..

worked for like 2 days then i started car this morning and was only boosting stock again..

who knows.

[zipstrips]

ive been doing some reading and researching in some free time. im gona play around with it this week but i really need someone else in the car with me to adjust or hopefully get to actually adjust my boost level.