rear sway bar end link removal, how-to w/pics Options

[Batman722]

there are a few ways to remove the sway bar end links. You need to remove them (or at least the top bolt) to change your rear struts (for lowering and such).

this is a commonly used and a very effective way here

spray the old links down really well with PB blaster like 15min before you start,
put a 14mm boxed end wrench over the old end link bolt, turn it, to break it loose from the mounting tab.
then
get a 5mm allen SOCKET.
this is what it looks like:

hammer it into the old endlink.
attach a wrachet to the socket, and use that to hold the bolt in place, and turn the 14mm WRENCH, not the socket.

^^ taken from an old post by presure2

the problem is that our cars are getting older and bolts exposed to the elements tend to rust/sieze up, and with this method sometimes the allen wrench/allen socket would strip out the end link. As posted here by dustin15brown

At this point there aren't too many options. The first time this happen to me, Manny (presure2) used a sawzall to cut through the old links. That took a long while and obviously we had to replace them.

Since then we have run into the same stripped out allen hole problem again. Manny (presure2) had developed a new way to remove them without the hassles we have had before.

here we go with the "JDM Guy" way

tools needed :
14mm socket and rachet
needle nose vise grips
PB Blaster


once you have gotten the wheel off things should look like this



this is the end link



use this



to do this



another angle



I then used a jack to lift up the knuckle to put less strain on the end link



make sure the vise grips are not grabbing the boot of the end link, you do not want to tear it if you plan on reusing the link.

also, make sure you spray things down with some PB Blaster to help the removal process

then use the 14mm socket w/rachet to turn the nut holding the link



just make sure you hold the vise grips steady and remove the nut

the end result should look like this





and another angle of the vise grips on the "lip" of the end link - between the boot and the threaded bolt





any questions ?

[Coomer]

Good option.

I was just under that area last night and it looks like it'd be hard to not grab the boot with the vice grips. Perhaps mine have a larger boot or something though.

Also, I've never had a problem using the allen wrench method...I just use some PB blaster and let it sit for a few minutes before taking off the end link bolts.

[orvillescelica]

^ i had the same problem when i tried to use vice grips after the allen wrench hole was stripped. I couldnt grab just the bolt area as shown in the pics. The boot for me was right up to the bracket, no space to put in a needle nose vice grip like you did.

[Bitter]

NOTHING worked for me, except that. the nut was totally seized on and the allen hole was rusted out larger than 5mm but smaller than the next size i had.

[orvillescelica]

If you do go the 'cut them off' route, check out this thread

http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=40246&hl=

you can buy the aftermarket rear sway bar end links for a 5th gen and they fit just fine. I ordered them for my car and they fit no problem. Plus, the are better made and have a bolt on both sides... so removal is as easy as two wrenches.

[presure2]

nice post D
added to the stickys!

[LewFX]

i tried pb blaster, a allen key, 14mm with okiers on joes lonks and they still stripped on me and ended up cutting them.when is someone gonna tell us how those new links are the newer reinforced ones.

[orvillescelica]

i tried pb blaster, a allen key, 14mm with okiers on joes lonks and they still stripped on me and ended up cutting them.when is someone gonna tell us how those new links are the newer reinforced ones.

I think im the only ones with them, and i dont really put my car through enough paces to tell the difference. I can tell you that they are much better than having none at all, which i did drive around with for about 2 weels. Either way, they are cheaper than new ones from Toyota, and built more solid jsut by the feel of them, and are easy to take off... no allen wrench or vice grips needed.

The MR2 guys i know though swear by them, and i trust their judgement when it comes to worth while parts to use.

This post has been edited by orvillescelica: Sep 18, 2006 - 4:55 PM

[presure2]

i tried pb blaster, a allen key, 14mm with okiers on joes lonks and they still stripped on me and ended up cutting them.when is someone gonna tell us how those new links are the newer reinforced ones.

i would have no problem or reservation at all with using them, the mr2 guys have been using them for years with great results.

[Culpable04]

I have stronger rear end links, I don't know the manufacturer, but I'll find out for you guys.

the ones I got have the little extention where you can add grease to the link without having to removed it. the shop I go got them for me. I'll see if I can get some pics tomorrow.

[Batman722]

If you do go the 'cut them off' route, check out this thread

http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=40246&hl=

you can buy the aftermarket rear sway bar end links for a 5th gen and they fit just fine. I ordered them for my car and they fit no problem. Plus, the are better made and have a bolt on both sides... so removal is as easy as two wrenches.

^^ those look BA

[j0e_p3t]

i tried pb blaster, a allen key, 14mm with okiers on joes links and they still stripped on me and ended up cutting them.when is someone gonna tell us how those new links are the newer reinforced ones.

yup, that was gay. even broke about a dozen dremel tool bits before we finally got them off.

This post has been edited by j0e_p3t: Sep 18, 2006 - 10:00 PM

[hitcachi]

i tried pb blaster, a allen key, 14mm with okiers on joes links and they still stripped on me and ended up cutting them.when is someone gonna tell us how those new links are the newer reinforced ones.

yup, that was gay. even broke about a dozen dremel tool bits before we finally got them off.

its so weird to here all these horror stories about these endlinks. Mine came off with some WD-40 and a little elbow grease. It was nothing. Thats considering nebraska rain, snow, and dust.

V Greatest tool I've ever used. I love these with a passion

[Bitter]

do they use gratuitous amounts of road salt in nebraska? around chicago land, its not uncommon to find salt from last winter still around when the 1st snowfall comes and speed bumps made from salt are pretty normal too.

[azian_advanced]

^ try doing it on a car with 400+k kms with tons of rust.. took me ~3 hours for both rears. it involved some torching but eventually saved the links.

[hurley97]

If you do go the 'cut them off' route, check out this thread

http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=40246&hl=

you can buy the aftermarket rear sway bar end links for a 5th gen and they fit just fine. I ordered them for my car and they fit no problem. Plus, the are better made and have a bolt on both sides... so removal is as easy as two wrenches.

^^ those look BA

no rubber boot? i think i'll be needing those sometime in the near future...

This post has been edited by hurley97: Sep 19, 2006 - 6:51 PM

[lxarmijo]

hey i was told that my end links could be loose and the reason why my rear end is knocking when i drive what you think? it only knocks when i go over bumps and not when i turn. i'm gonna try to tighten them this weekend.