Valve stem seal replacement Options

[56willysnut]

Got the kids 7A-FE engine camshafts removed for the valve seal replacement. Bought new seals, etc also bought a universal valve spring compressor to be able to take out the keepers. Removed the lifters and shims then dicovered that the tool would not work due to the valve springs being in a recessed pocket.
So off to the internet to find a suitable tool for this job. For those of you that have done this job yourself what tooling did you use to remove the valve spring keepers? Can you post a part number or pic of the tool you used?

[WannabeGT4]

Removal can be done with a socket and a well placed tap with a hammer but that won't do you any good if you want to put them back in.

I've always heard good things about the toyotool:

http://www.toyotool.com/

[x_itchy_b_x]

im using that tool as we speak , so good. love it.

[celica95gt]

hi
I have done a few on camry 4 cyclinder,the tool WannabeGT4 is a must on all take out the value stems.Just a funny question is the head on or off the car.If it still on the car going to need a compressor because if you try it with out compressor the value will fall into the cyclinder which is a pain to get out.good luck and keep us post

[56willysnut]

Head is still on the engine, bought the hose to pressurize the cyl, I ended buying the tooling from Epay. It's the type that bolts to the head with the sliding rod and lever. $55 bucks. I guess I'll be working on it Christmas Eve while drinking spiked eggnog! hic! Sure was wanting to have it back up and running this weekend.

[56willysnut]

Job finished!!!
Hard to tell it if it's burning less oil yet, but it eliminated the excessive blowby coming out of the pcv valve hose. You could actually feel the pressure of the air pushing your finger away from the pcv valve. I used a magnet to help remove the valve stem keepers and then cleaned them and put a small amount of heavy grease to hold them into position while the spring was compressed. The tooling I used bolts to the head and uses a lever to compress the spring, easier to use if you have a helper to hold the spring compressed while you wrestle with the keepers. Be sure to get the stem seal pliers they saved me alot of time. Start to finish was probably 8 hrs of wrenching for those of you wanting to do this job.

This post has been edited by 56willysnut: Dec 23, 2006 - 4:17 PM

[x_itchy_b_x]

instead of using air to compress the cylinder use rope and fill the cylinder at BDC and then bring it up to TDC and the rope will hold the valves up. easy as pie.

[Bitter]

i'm thinking of tackling this job this summer when i do my timing belt and some other things. i may just pull the head however since i want to take a peek under there and see how its all doing.

[lazzyboy121]

i'm thinking of tackling this job this summer when i do my timing belt and some other things. i may just pull the head however since i want to take a peek under there and see how its all doing.

pull teh head and replace ur headgasket since ur doing all the work already

[Bitter]

i'm thinking of tackling this job this summer when i do my timing belt and some other things. i may just pull the head however since i want to take a peek under there and see how its all doing.

pull teh head and replace ur headgasket since ur doing all the work already

well if i pull the head i have to replace it, but my HG is fine now as best i can tell. my compression is a little low, but thats from wear and i dont think the engine was all the way warm when i checked it. it was at 165 across all 4 cylinders on a 7afe. it should be closer to 180. when the head is off i'll be really tempted to do an in-car partial rebuild. grind the valves, lap them, drop the rotating assembly and re-hone/re-ring and install fresh bearings. but the body of the car makes that part of the project not worth the time and effort.