6G Celicas Forums

Welcome Guest ( Log In | Register )

 
Reply to this topicStart new topic
> Any helpful tips for a brake job?, Looking for inputs
post Jan 8, 2007 - 1:30 PM
+Quote Post
94GT



Enthusiast
**
Joined Feb 25, '04
From Fairfield, CA
Currently Offline

Reputation: 0 (0%)




Hi, it's time for a brake job (2nd one since I bought the car 170,000 miles ago) and I'm looking for some input on how to do it right. For starters, I'm replacing the rotors this time. Last time (1st time) I just changed the pads and for fun I swapped out the brake hoses and bled the system. I did NOT resurface the rotors because I didn't think they were thick enough, so for the past 70,000 miles or so, it's been squealing. I used anti-squeal compound, but that didn't do it I didn't use brake cleaner on any parts. All I did was raise the vehicle, swap pads and hoses. Any of you guys who have tips on how to make my brakes sound happy for the next 70,000 miles, please drop a post. Thanks!

-Mike
post Jan 8, 2007 - 4:00 PM
+Quote Post
Bitter

Enthusiast
*****
Joined Mar 11, '06
From Way South Chicago
Currently Offline

Reputation: 0 (0%)




sand the rotors and pads with silicon carbide sandpaper (220 grit). when you didnt resurface the old brake pad compound got embedded into the new pads likely creating hard spots on the rotor and pad, which is causing your noise problems now.

use ONLY silicon carbide paper and wash both pads and rotors throughly with hot soapy water then clean them down with brake cleaner.


--------------------
post Jan 8, 2007 - 4:24 PM
+Quote Post
eggman40



Enthusiast
****
Joined Aug 17, '04
From California
Currently Offline

Reputation: 20 (100%)




i just changed my front rotors this weekend and calipers from a gt. the rotors are rotora slotted, i changed the brake lines for some steel ones.



I followed the rotors directions which said to clean the rotors with some brake cleaner to get rid of the oil the put on to keep it from rusting while it sits on the shelf. I put brake grease on the back of the pads to prevent squeeking. Then when i bled the brakes, i started with the rear pass. side rotor because its the furthest from the master cylinder, moving to the rear driver, then front right, finally front left. get all the air out of the lines and you should be good. smile.gif

post Jan 8, 2007 - 5:39 PM
+Quote Post
94GT



Enthusiast
**
Joined Feb 25, '04
From Fairfield, CA
Currently Offline

Reputation: 0 (0%)




Thanks for the input, guys!
post Jan 10, 2007 - 12:20 AM
+Quote Post
DeW_H0e_GT



Enthusiast
*****
Joined Mar 9, '05
From Oakland, Cali
Currently Offline

Reputation: 46 (100%)




we need a how-to thats what we need..... kindasad.gif


--------------------
post Jan 10, 2007 - 2:27 AM
+Quote Post
wind

Enthusiast
**
Joined Nov 4, '03
From Vancouver, Canada!
Currently Offline

Reputation: 0 (0%)




i will be diving into a caliper rebuild in the next month. I'll put one together then, unless someone else beats me to it
post Jan 12, 2007 - 2:42 AM
+Quote Post
6strngs



Enthusiast
*****
Joined May 12, '06
From Wilmington, NC
Currently Offline

Reputation: 45 (100%)




as soon as my rotors come in I will be doing pads and rotors on all four brakes. but, me and a friend changed the front pads on his 91 240sx a couple weeks ago and it's incredibly simple. we didn't even need to bleed the system cause we never undid the brake line. it was seriously like four bolts, pull the caliper off, slide the old brake pads off, put the new ones in (at this point, the rotor could be removed to be replaced/resurfaced). pull the cap off the brake fluid resevoir, and using a c-clamp, compress the piston back into the caliper, slide the caliper back on, put the four bolts back on, and you're done one side!

Should be the same or almost the same for a celi. but, I suppose I could do a write-up on it anyway.


--------------------

94 GT - Sold -------- 69 Pontiac Lemans - Sold
88 Alltrac - Sold ---- 04 WRX - Sold
00 GT-S - Sold ------ 91 Miata - project/drift car
95 GT - Sold -------- 96 GT - New Daily Drive
post Jan 12, 2007 - 11:08 AM
+Quote Post
wind

Enthusiast
**
Joined Nov 4, '03
From Vancouver, Canada!
Currently Offline

Reputation: 0 (0%)




Ive read that pushing the piston back into the caliper isnt the best thing to do as there could be small peices of debris in the fluid that may find there way back up the system.
post Jan 12, 2007 - 12:17 PM
+Quote Post
uberschall

Enthusiast
***
Joined Jul 29, '03
From north of detroit
Currently Offline

Reputation: 6 (100%)




hydraulic brakes are self-adjusting, so the pistons usually have to be pushed in before the caliper will even fit back onto the rotor with new pads in it.

besides, if you have debris in your lines, pushing the pistons in isn't the biggest of your problems. biggrin.gif


--------------------
IPB Image
do you know who i am, mr. worley?
post Jan 12, 2007 - 3:44 PM
+Quote Post
DeW_H0e_GT



Enthusiast
*****
Joined Mar 9, '05
From Oakland, Cali
Currently Offline

Reputation: 46 (100%)




ive read some haynes manual on a 5th gen but it should eb the same for 6gc too....my question is: when shall u compress the caliper with a c-clamp?....after the brake pads are off then immediately compress?.....i saw pictures of it but not somethin liek where the c-clamp goes.....pics of that specific area would help out great...BTW, i found somethin hat could help..its for a camry though....

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/t92082.html


--------------------
post Jan 12, 2007 - 8:35 PM
+Quote Post
6strngs



Enthusiast
*****
Joined May 12, '06
From Wilmington, NC
Currently Offline

Reputation: 45 (100%)




I don't exaclty remember, but I believe we compressed the piston after the old were off, and before the new were on. as to where on the piston to compress at, we took one of the old brake pads, put it across the cylinder, and compressed that, that way you don't damage the clyinder, and it doesn't matter if you damage an old brake pad.


--------------------

94 GT - Sold -------- 69 Pontiac Lemans - Sold
88 Alltrac - Sold ---- 04 WRX - Sold
00 GT-S - Sold ------ 91 Miata - project/drift car
95 GT - Sold -------- 96 GT - New Daily Drive
post Jan 13, 2007 - 10:25 PM
+Quote Post
CelicaST202

Enthusiast
**
Joined Apr 2, '06
From Socal
Currently Offline

Reputation: 0 (0%)




used your old brake pad and a c-clamp to push back the piston.
post Jan 14, 2007 - 2:28 AM
+Quote Post
94GT



Enthusiast
**
Joined Feb 25, '04
From Fairfield, CA
Currently Offline

Reputation: 0 (0%)




I just did my brake job and I followed my Haynes manual and compressed the piston before I pulled the caliper off the car. I placed one end on the back of the outside brake pad and the other on the flat spot on the inside of the caliper next to the brake hose. By the way, Autozone has the wrong size rotor in their computer! I got the whole thing installed before I realized it was too small. Fortunately I was able to get my old ones turned (they had just enough life left in them) and got my money back from Autozone.
post Jan 14, 2007 - 1:19 PM
+Quote Post
jc47

Enthusiast
*
Joined Nov 10, '06
From Cleveland
Currently Offline

Reputation: 0 (0%)




QUOTE
Ive read that pushing the piston back into the caliper isnt the best thing to do as there could be small peices of debris in the fluid that may find there way back up the system.
You will need to push the piston in; the best way to do it is connect a hose and open the bleeder screw while pushing the piston in, this way you can drain out the old oil instead of pushing it back into the master cylinder and/or abs unit. Most service manuals recommend doing it this way, especially for cars with abs.
post Jan 15, 2007 - 5:46 PM
+Quote Post
wind

Enthusiast
**
Joined Nov 4, '03
From Vancouver, Canada!
Currently Offline

Reputation: 0 (0%)




exactly what i meant biggrin.gif

Reply to this topicStart new topic
1 User(s) are reading this topic (1 Guests and 0 Anonymous Users)
0 Members:

 



Lo-Fi Version Time is now: November 30th, 2024 - 7:34 PM