My Engine Bay Renovation Thread, AE111 ECU conversion, wire tuck, and more... Options

[Coomer]

That's what I kind of though, except if the car is not running and the ignition is on, the temp. gauge will gradually fall over the course of several minutes. It seems like if it were an electrical problem it'd stay at full hot with the ignition on and the car not running. It's confusing.

Could it possibly be because I'm using an aftermarket thermostat that doesn't have that little hole in it? I know that hole would allow air and coolant to escape, probably allowing the car to run and bleed off air much faster. My old thermostat never had that problem, but then again my old thermostat was stuck open.

And regarding the speed sensor, I looked at the tranny when I had it running a few minutes ago and the parts inside the transmission are indeed spinning since it has no load on it.

[Coomer]

So I replaced my thermostat with a factory Toyota one with the hole in it and replaced my coolant sender unit with another one and added more grounds to the head and transmission and I still have the same problem. When I replaced the coolant sender unit, the coolant was warm but was nowhere near boiling hot, even though the gauge was at full hot.

This leads me to think it's my wiring. The sender wire goes through two connectors now instead of just one, which seems like it would add resistance. The wire is probably slightly shorter than the factory wire though, which would reduce resistance, though not by much I don't think.

However, the coolant temp. gauge works as follows.

High resistance (160-240 ohms) indicates a water temperature of approximately 122 degrees fahrenheit, while low resistance (17.1-20.4 ohms) indicates a water temperature of 248 degrees fahrenheit.

So if my two connectors add more resistance, then my gauge should read colder, not hotter, right?

I'm really confused right now, and I can't figure out what is going on. Anyone have any good ideas?

[Mangozac]

High resistance (160-240 ohms) indicates a water temperature of approximately 122 degrees fahrenheit, while low resistance (17.1-20.4 ohms) indicates a water temperature of 248 degrees fahrenheit.

So if my two connectors add more resistance, then my gauge should read colder, not hotter, right?

Yeah that's right. And I'd be surprised if the connectors added that much resistance to have an impact anyway

Do you have a multimeter? My next step would be to measure the reading at all points in the system, starting at the sender and working back to the meter, first with the engine cold, then hot.

Zac

[Coomer]

I figured it out. Turns out that I forgot to connect pin 11 on the 13-pin body harness plug to ground. That wire provides ground for the coolant temp. gauge in the cluster. Once I grounded that it solved my problem, so now the coolant system is good to go.

I also got the axles in and started work on a clutch line. Hopefully I'll be able to get a lot more done when I go back to work on it later tonight.

[Hanyo]

High resistance (160-240 ohms) indicates a water temperature of approximately 122 degrees fahrenheit, while low resistance (17.1-20.4 ohms) indicates a water temperature of 248 degrees fahrenheit.

So if my two connectors add more resistance, then my gauge should read colder, not hotter, right?

I'm really confused right now, and I can't figure out what is going on. Anyone have any good ideas?

I know it sound obvious. But test out the water temperture senser. Measure the temperature of some boiling water. Then stick the water temp senser into it and measure the resistance with a ohm meter. If it is with in specs; then its not the senser it self, and you can move onto fixing the wiring.

The next step you can take is to rig up a 160-240 resistor and connect it to where the temp senser is suppose to be. See if your temp needle is accurate.

Do you get the temp light turning one when your temp needle is giving a reading of over heating?

[lagos]

High resistance (160-240 ohms) indicates a water temperature of approximately 122 degrees fahrenheit, while low resistance (17.1-20.4 ohms) indicates a water temperature of 248 degrees fahrenheit.

So if my two connectors add more resistance, then my gauge should read colder, not hotter, right?

I'm really confused right now, and I can't figure out what is going on. Anyone have any good ideas?

I know it sound obvious. But test out the water temperture senser. Measure the temperature of some boiling water. Then stick the water temp senser into it and measure the resistance with a ohm meter. If it is with in specs; then its not the senser it self, and you can move onto fixing the wiring.

The next step you can take is to rig up a 160-240 resistor and connect it to where the temp senser is suppose to be. See if your temp needle is accurate.

Do you get the temp light turning one when your temp needle is giving a reading of over heating?

you should read the part where he said he just fixed the problem

[Valo666]

or you can burp the system too...car off, cap off, poor the coolant in, squeeze the upper rad hose untill the coolant is down, if the coolant stops lowering, add more untill its good. This also will send pressure through and get the air out of the system. Could help with the "overheating problem"

[Coomer]

Today I got a good amount done. The car is getting really close.

It started with a trip to the hardware store to get some supplies.



There's my $9.71 worth of hardware. All of the allen head bolts are stainless steel.



And speaking of hardware, does anyone know why Toyota would use these aluminum nuts to hold clamps that hold brake lines to the firewall? They're the only aluminum nuts on the sixth gen. Celica as far as I know, and I didn't see these aluminum nuts on any Toyotas in the junkyard. Just thought it was kind of interesting.

Anyway, I had to paint the hood hinges before I could throw the fenders on.



There you can see some detail on a hood hinge. I shot them with a rattle can.



There's my clutch line.



And there's one of those fancy stainless bolts. I used them to mount the fenders to the frame rail.



Also, there's my headlight. I've tried epoxy, spray-on glue, and metal clips, but none of them seem to work well at holding on headlight seals, so I tried silicone this time. Only after I applied the silicone did I realize that I have no idea where my clamps are, so there's my makeshift clamp.



There's the car as it sits right now. Just needs a bumper, sideskirts, extensions, and wheels. Then I just have to add transmission oil, tighten lugs and axle nuts, adjust the TPS, bolt on the velocity stacks, adjust timing, and do a few other minor things and the car should be good to go.

[x_itchy_b_x]

cant wait to see a photoshoot!

[j0e_p3t]

looks like all your hard work is about to pay off. can't wait to see it finished.

[Coomer]

Yesterday I got a lot done. The bumper, sideskirts, and extensions are on, everything in the bay is done, the wiring inside is reasonably organized and loomed up, and the car is back on the ground with everything tightened. I had to get a new throttle cable as my Paseo one wasn't holding up very well, so I found one from a fifth gen. Celica that works pretty well once I ground its bracket down a bit.

By the time I finished up with that stuff it was 11pm, my knuckles were bleeding, and I was about to pass out, so I didn't take pics or drive it yet, but next time I go home I'll just throw in the interior and I'll be able to go drive it.

[Chanh55]

Can't wait to see more pics. Good job Coom.

[doGGy]

Next step - projectors Chris And you will be set to send your car to Any mag

[LewFX]

and a yellow 6gc.net sticker! rid the white, go yellow!

This post has been edited by LewFX: May 2, 2007 - 5:01 PM

[Coomer]

So I drove the car a few minutes ago, and it's got problems.

It has a horrible clunking noise from the rear. All of the suspension bolts are tight, so I have absolutely no idea what it is.

The clutch shudders. I hope this is temporary while the clutch is breaking in. Because I'd rather just sell the car than pull the motor to replace a clutch again. I hate mechanical work with a passion.

The car is next to impossible to steer. The looped-lines-with-breather trick that works for all the Honda guys does not work for me whatsoever.

But other than those problems, everything seems good. No check engine light and it drives well once it's moving and as long as you're going in a straight line along a perfectly flat surface. Sigh...

[playr158]

thats the curse of the Toyota steering rack...they are just ridiculous sans power...i feel your pain

also is the shudder more of a car shaking shudder? or a chattering?
clutch in or out? or regardless?

[Coomer]

It's a car shaking shudder. And it happens only when the clutch is engaging when starting from a stop in first or reverse.

[LewFX]

check your sway end links, check top mounts

This post has been edited by LewFX: May 2, 2007 - 11:21 PM

[Coomer]

check your sway end links, check top mounts

Done and done. I checked them and they're all tight.

[LewFX]

rear suspension arms?