My Engine Bay Renovation Thread, AE111 ECU conversion, wire tuck, and more... Options

[doGGy]

It's a car shaking shudder. And it happens only when the clutch is engaging when starting from a stop in first or reverse.

New clutch and new flywheel (resurfaced)? If so - its almost normal - it will get less every time you will drive, cuz the clutch/flywheel will be wearing in.

And you bolted your rear shocks to the chasis ? Becose i had the same after removal of my chasis... i just forgot to bolt them tight

About steering rack - either you aint filled up your steering rack fully with the steering liquid - so the air is still giving you resistance, of it will not gonna work at all. So if its not gonna work - go to junk yeard and try looking for a Yota that came from factory without PS. You will need to customise the rack to your lower subframe in order to have a proper steering i guess...

[Coomer]

rear suspension arms?

Haven't checked them, but I haven't touched them either. I was only working with the strut assemblies in the rear.

It's a car shaking shudder. And it happens only when the clutch is engaging when starting from a stop in first or reverse.

New clutch and new flywheel (resurfaced)? If so - its almost normal - it will get less every time you will drive, cuz the clutch/flywheel will be wearing in.

And you bolted your rear shocks to the chasis ? Becose i had the same after removal of my chasis... i just forgot to bolt them tight

About steering rack - either you aint filled up your steering rack fully with the steering liquid - so the air is still giving you resistance, of it will not gonna work at all. So if its not gonna work - go to junk yeard and try looking for a Yota that came from factory without PS. You will need to customise the rack to your lower subframe in order to have a proper steering i guess...

Ah, thanks for the info. And yes, the rear shocks are bolted in tight.

I just went down to the garage and added more fluid into the steering system, and it didn't help. I kind of glanced at Toyotas when I was at the yard last time, but didn't see anything that looked like it'd work.

But when I drove back into the garage, I noticed a small puddle where the car used to be. Turns out that I'm leaking transmission fluid, probably from one of the axle seals I didn't replace because the Toyota dealership wants $42.15 a piece for them. Now I'm even more pissed. There's no way my car is going to be done by my birthday now, and it's going to cost me even more money that I don't have.

I'm really beginning to regret doing this whole project. I went from a good-running car to one that clunks, leaks, and can't turn.

[97lestyousay]

Don't get discouraged, you have worked to hard and done
to great of job so far to let a few setbacks get you down.
If you need anything, I can help you out, I can come up to
Yakima Saturday and help in whatever way you need. I don't
know a lot about these cars yet but I have a good mechanical
background and can turn a wrench. I also know you are as picky
about your car as I am so I wouldn't be touching or doing anything
without you telling me to. My corolla is similar in a lot of ways and you
could check out whatever you need to on it. let me know

[j0e_p3t]

^ x2. don't give up coomer. it'll all be worth it in the end.

[celicaST]

i can get those axel seals cheaper for you since i work at toyota. whats the part number? ill pay shipping. anybody else willing to chip in?

look at all the work youve done. its amazing, dont let these setbacks get you down.

[j0e_p3t]

^ i'd be willing to chip in a few bucks.

[celicaST]

^ i'd be willing to chip in a few bucks.

awesome, i think its the least we can do for him running this site out of his own pockets.

[mikeismad0408]

you take money orders i can chip in a bit too, im somewhat new here but i love the way he has things organized, i agree that its the least we could do for him.

[99GT]

I can chip in also...

[95CelicaST]

I can make the drive if you need help!

We're all here to help, Coomer.

[Coomer]

Thanks for all the offers for help guys. It's nice to know everyone here is so willing to help out. I've since cooled off and am feeling a lot better now.

Suspension will be fixable I'm sure. The shuddering sounds like it's normal for a clutch that's brand new. The axle seals are a pain, but doable. And the steering will provide motivation for me to work out more.

Regarding axle seals, I contacted my local Toyota dealer today, and I think they're just plain stupid. A long time ago those axle seals were around $4-5 a piece (I replaced both when I first had my swap done), a couple months ago when I checked the seals were $42.15 a piece, and today the parts guy said they were $26.10 a piece.

I figured I'd see if the local Schucks has them, and they have Beck/Arnley seals for $4.09 and $6.49, so I think I'll pick those up and try those. $11 is a lot better than $55, so I think I can finance that.

[Daftboy]

Good to hear hopefully things will get better soon:D

[Bitter]

i really didnt think that just taking off the pump would work. that rack's ratio is designed for power assist, so removing assist greatly increases the stearing input needed. i cant think of a good analogy other than its like using a 10" ratchet where you're supposed to use a 24" breaker bar.

[Coomer]

So tonight I replaced the passenger-side axle seal/output shaft seal/oil seal (whatever you want to call it) and pulled apart the rear suspension. It turns out that my clunking was a gap in the spacers inside the driver's side strut assembly. So I added in another spacer, put it all back together, and there's no more clunk. The axle, or anything else, isn't leaking either, so that's good as well.

Anyway, I drove the car 55 miles tonight, and it ran beautifully. The clutch seems to be getting better. The only real problem is that the cooling system seems to cool too well. I was driving in 40-45 degree weather and if I had fresh air coming in and the blower fan on, the coolant temperature would drop (as low as 2mm away from the lowest mark on the coolant temp. gauge.) If I don't allow fresh air to come in and don't have the blower fans on, then the temperature will rise to or stay at normal operating temperature.

Perhaps a higher temperature thermostat would help, but in the summer (when I drive the car most) that might not be such a good thing. So I think unless it gets really bad, I'll leave it as is, unless anyone has any good suggestions. I don't really mind the way it is right now, and I rarely drive the car in weather colder than this.

Anyway, I'm off to put the rest of it back together and then drive home and get some sleep. It's technically my birthday now, so I just barely pulled off my goal of having the car done by my birthday.

[lagos]

either you didnt install the the thermostat correctly, or your sensor for the gauge cluster needs to be replaced.

either way, try to fix the problem because you'll get poor gas mileage if your ecu thinks the engine is not up to operating temp.

[shin]

HAPPY B'DAY CHRIS~!

[Coomer]

either you didnt install the the thermostat correctly, or your sensor for the gauge cluster needs to be replaced.

either way, try to fix the problem because you'll get poor gas mileage if your ecu thinks the engine is not up to operating temp.

I really don't think it's the sensor. The problem doesn't seem like a sensor at all. I forgot to mention that the air coming through the heater actually gets colder too, so it's clear that the coolant temp. is cooling off when the gauge shows that it is.

And the thermostat is installed correctly. However, it's a really old thermostat. It's possible that it's stuck partially open.

[playr158]

Great work Chris, should probably just replace it seeing as T-stats are relatively cheap for our cars and not too hard to replace.
and like shin said

HAPPY BIRTHDAY kid

This post has been edited by playr158: May 5, 2007 - 11:49 AM

[lagos]

either you didnt install the the thermostat correctly, or your sensor for the gauge cluster needs to be replaced.

either way, try to fix the problem because you'll get poor gas mileage if your ecu thinks the engine is not up to operating temp.

I really don't think it's the sensor. The problem doesn't seem like a sensor at all. I forgot to mention that the air coming through the heater actually gets colder too, so it's clear that the coolant temp. is cooling off when the gauge shows that it is.

And the thermostat is installed correctly. However, it's a really old thermostat. It's possible that it's stuck partially open.

when my sensor went, it would start reading cooler on the highway and normal in city driving. bought a new one and fixed the problem. but try a new thermostat first. only buy an oem one. the aftermarket ones are really poor quality.

[mikeismad0408]

happy birthday, and im glad the car is back running again!